Any insight on immobiliser & instrument cluster faults, then car not turning over?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 266
From: Melbourne, Australia.
Any idea how old your battery is? My 5 year old battery failed on me last year and I had to use my jump pack twice to get home at the end of a 10 day trip. After driving for a while the car would start on the battery but be dead in the morning. You could get it load tested at a battery shop. On another car I had a battery replaced under warranty after only 12 months as it tested weak.
I don't see how there is enough room to install a second full size starting battery but one for accesories like a fridge is possible. Simplest way would be to use a DC to DC charger between the cars 12v system and the second battery. Two wires from the charger output go to the battery. On the input side two wires go to the cars system, preferably the battery. A third wire on the input side goes to a source of switched DC that is only on when the car is running. This turns on the charger when the car is running. When the car is off the two batteries are isolated. I was previously using a voltage sensing relay to isolate my fridge battery but I was concerned one of the two batteries, a big staring battery and a small 100 Ah AGM battery, might not be getting fully charged because of the different capacities so I added the DC to DC charger. This works as a 3 stage charger for the fridge battery and should keep it fully charged and not overcharged.
I don't see how there is enough room to install a second full size starting battery but one for accesories like a fridge is possible. Simplest way would be to use a DC to DC charger between the cars 12v system and the second battery. Two wires from the charger output go to the battery. On the input side two wires go to the cars system, preferably the battery. A third wire on the input side goes to a source of switched DC that is only on when the car is running. This turns on the charger when the car is running. When the car is off the two batteries are isolated. I was previously using a voltage sensing relay to isolate my fridge battery but I was concerned one of the two batteries, a big staring battery and a small 100 Ah AGM battery, might not be getting fully charged because of the different capacities so I added the DC to DC charger. This works as a 3 stage charger for the fridge battery and should keep it fully charged and not overcharged.
A full size 100-120ah battery will fit in front of the main battery on a custom tray.
Mudding
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 158
Likes: 25
2 options for fitting an aux battery, well 3 if you find space in the cargo area. A small battery 60-85AH will fit the factory aux battery compartment in front of the driver, the 85ah will require cutting a hole in the lid like i did. A 60ah lithium will fit there easily and might even squeeze in a DC-DC charger next to it,a bit of insulation wil help protect it from heat although its quite well protected already.
A full size 100-120ah battery will fit in front of the main battery on a custom tray.
A full size 100-120ah battery will fit in front of the main battery on a custom tray.
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Mudding
Joined: Nov 2022
Posts: 139
Likes: 20
From: Montana / New Jersey
so funny, I vividly remember (and even referenced) this post because you mention building your own cables like a boss.
You say in that post "Its NOT a deep cycle. Because I don't camp much this works fine" so, if I'm poking at your expertise, let's say I was due for a battery replacement anyways, and was then looking to do a dual battery setup with a DC-to-DC charger (which from what I understand, charges the aux batt off the main battery while driving and the alternator is working, but then automatically breaks the battery-to-battery connection when the engine is off) in order isolate the power source to run a fridge/aux lights/aux power, but then also has the ability to jump start main battery if needed, and possibly connect solar into that system – what battery type would you personally use? Sounds like... if you were camping for longer periods of time that you would go with two deep cycle batteries?
You say in that post "Its NOT a deep cycle. Because I don't camp much this works fine" so, if I'm poking at your expertise, let's say I was due for a battery replacement anyways, and was then looking to do a dual battery setup with a DC-to-DC charger (which from what I understand, charges the aux batt off the main battery while driving and the alternator is working, but then automatically breaks the battery-to-battery connection when the engine is off) in order isolate the power source to run a fridge/aux lights/aux power, but then also has the ability to jump start main battery if needed, and possibly connect solar into that system – what battery type would you personally use? Sounds like... if you were camping for longer periods of time that you would go with two deep cycle batteries?
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1,620
Likes: 266
From: Melbourne, Australia.
Doesn't make any difference., alternator will charge the main lead acid and DCDC will provide the correct charge profile for the lithium.
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