I did replace all my ARB Bushes, front upper and lower, and rear bushes. The guys at the shop cursed me for not getting the rear arms. In the process I also replaced the seal kits in the air struts and fitted Koni FSD dampers. At the same time, I did both CV joints, new EBC brakes & rotors, and new wheel bearings all the way around. I wanted to be done with it for a while. After that project it definitely needed a height calibration and 4 wheel alignment. The ride is heavenly, albeit a bit softer than the factory ride, but not as harsh when off-roading. All in all I have been happy with the update, and with the addition of new tires recently, a new rear drive shaft, an inner/outer ball joint kit the ride is as good as or better than new. You can't complain about that with 133k on the clock. I used all genuine parts, and I suspect when you did yours you got the newer version.

By doing the suspension stuff all at once, I avoided the expense of repeatedly paying someone to have it all disassembled.

 

Do you get a lot of front end brake "dive" with the softer set-up? I love the LR4 platform, but can't stand the braking nose dive. and the only way I can think of improving this is going the opposite way with a firmer suspension.


I am a late braker at the track and have a hard time being an "early" braker on the street - especially after a track day. My X5 was nice and stiff and never bothered me, the LR4 is like a floating '78 Lincoln! A little too much brake and the nose feels like it is in the pavement.

 

I do not believe I get any noticeable brake front end drive. That being said, I try to be prepared ahead of time being in the T-Bone capital of the US.

I'll give it a try and let you know. What I would say, that the vehicle is designed to stick to the road when you brake, and still be maneuverable. A vehicle in front of me had a ladder fall off in the left lane of the interstate doing 60+. I slammed on the brakes, and steered left around the oncoming ladder and back on to the road, with no problem.

I've read some negative comments on LR braking in the past from people, not familiar with how it works. I also run EBC drilled/slotted rotors, and pads, but I'm sure you probably have your own opinions on those.

I'll let you know how the brake test goes. How much dive are you seeing? How many miles on that again?

Koni claims the FSD dampers adjust to conditions, but I do notice more lean corning from what I recall.

This video give you any ideas?

 

Front Air Shock : Strut

We actually give you the option and let you know what you're buying. And we support these sites.

 

Erik are you saying that you offer an OE Land Rover stut, as well as the Allmakes knock off?

Are you saying what you are selling is an improved version, or just that is what you are selling?

Do you also do Arnott, which are Bilstiens?

Do you sell Bilsteins, Koni?

What's your experience with the allmakes or other various ones out there today in regard to handling, ride, etc.?

 

I understand what you guys offering, but first , you have to stay competitive price wise , as your genuine struts are moray money , that my local dealer calls for, way more...
Second of all Dunlop strut are not that desirable , as oppose to , lets say , DELPHI units, so ,my point is , you guys stay ahed of competition and we will drink to that on next Winter Romp.

I just ordered whole nine yards of front and back lower and upper control arms along with hardware, because it was the cheapest option of them all ( believe it or not ) along with hardware.At the end of the day , even the AB turned out to be more expensive, than my local boys.
Cheers

 

Keep us posted on the project thorgal, and post up some pictures, write up and end result of the upgrade. I think you will be tickled. Don't toss your old struts, I'd like a set to experiment with if you plan on scrapping them. Then I can do a step by step tear down with pictures, etc.

 

I will try to keep you posted, although doing the job myself and documenting it with d 300s will prolong the entire process for sure . Well, on the other hand , I really SHOULD take pictures of existing components as I need to put everything together as it was before (like this matters at all .LOL ).
Got all my arms and bits picked up from local place, also ordered four air struts from BPoU.Should be here next week .Probably need to order a four new VOSS connectors , since they don't come with a new air struts.
there are few items, that I still need to buy such as 32 mm socket for wheel stake nut, 24 mm spanner for tie rod , 24 mm deep socket for control arms, 21 , 19 mm spanners and 21 n deep socket, need to come up with some kind of brake bleeding jar or tool.
Also will need a ball joint separator.
I have to admit , I have never conducted such an operation in my life yet, but since I renovate and build homes for a living , how different could this process be, that fixing an LR3 ?

I don't really know how much time , or days, for that matter ,should I give myself for the entire process, but I am planning to change :

- Front lower and upper control arms ,
-Front inner and outer tie rods,
-front air struts,
-front stabilizer links,
-Lower steering shaft-long awaited project,
-Front brake hoses and bleed the with a new fluid'
- Rear lower and upper control arms with new bolts ,
- rear stabiliser links,
- rear air struts,
- rear brake hoses, as they have to come out for upper control arms anyway.
Drive for ten miles and set up for an alignment at local dealer.
Don't know , if I would need a hight calibration afterwards .
Spark plugs , if I have some time left, in this life , off course...hmmhmm...

Not to bad for a short list , right ?

Unseenone, I wanted to re build these bags myself, but if you really need them, I will see what I can do for you my friend. We have been on this board ( and others ) long enough, to appreciate good deeds and I am like that..Shipping might be expansive to Texas though...
Cheers.
One last question , I just received a whole tie rod kit for both front corners and it contains a SHELL STERAK GREASE , I know that, this is a lithium base pro dust, but where do i pack it , I don't know. Inner tie rod ball looks lubricated already..somebody please steer me in the right direction..

 

I watched my guy install the ball joint kit I recently had put on mine. They packed it in and around the joints, on rod inside where the boot covers. One important note, I had my alignment at an different brake shop. A few weeks later, the nuts on the outer ball joints were loose. Be sure and use some thread lock on the bits and bolts, so it doesn't work itself free.

I would say, that a height alignment is in order for sure, it seems like the dealer would be the best place for this, or an independent who has the proper equipment to do it.

If you're planning on doing the dampers yourself, that's fine, I just hate to see them end up in the trash.

Based on your project, it's probably going to be a couple of days worth of work at least, depending on your work environment, etc. Having a lift is sure a bonus on stuff like this.

I've never had a need to do the rear stabilizer links, if we are talking about the same thing, however, there was a new bolt for them that LR came out with after a few snapped on people, so at least changing those is a good idea. I believe I had to buy a pack of 5 when I bought them.

If you have rust, there is a good chance bolts will be frozen and need to be cut off, etc. So you may want to order bolts in this case and fit new ones.

The lower steering shaft is a bear of a project, a LONG extension was needed to get to it, but it can be done by only removing the shields above the drivers side wheel. Important note here, tie off the wheel, so you don't end up 180degrees off, if you do, the wheel position sensor will be off, and you'll have immediate problems with the vehicle stability systems, because the vehicle will thing a wheel is slipping. Don't ask how I know.

 

I have all new nuts and bolts for the project, won't even bother wrestling the old ones out, just a few good blades and reciprocating saw will work on them just fine.

Stabilizer link nuts are sold separately, different PN for front and back though.I wonder , if 12 point 32 mm socket will work on the half shaft nut...
Regarding the bal joint on the control arms, maybe I can just carefully use medium size hammer to separate it from knuckle .

I will let you know in terms of my old air bags, obviously you have been working on some projects lately, such as rear bumper and such, maybe they will serve you better ,then me.
The reason, I was thinking about changing lower steering shaft is because I will have all the available room to access it , since everything around it will be off..
Cheers.