British parts of Utah service advise
Control arm ball joints are just a crap shoot. They can pop out easily with the tap of a hammer or you can whack at them and pry at them with a pickle fork for hours... or in the case of my audi, you can have one of each. IIRC, my driver's side was easy, but the passenger side seemed like it was welded on. There are a couple different types of tools for the job (e.g. a pickle fork, a ball joint separator, etc.), and while the ball joint separator is probably best to use, it may not fit in the space provided.
Either way, you may be able to borrow the tool free of charge from your local auto parts store. I know both Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have all sorts of things for loan around here.
Either way, you may be able to borrow the tool free of charge from your local auto parts store. I know both Auto Zone and Advanced Auto have all sorts of things for loan around here.
Tomorrow is a big day.
I gathered all the necessary parts and will tackle and wrestle control arms , brake hoses, tie rods and air struts early morning.Already scheduled an appointment for alignment and hight sensor calibration on Monday, so I better hurry up , lot's of things to do !!!
One question though...
I know that brake bleeding procedure requires starting at the very rear and opposite to master cylinder wheel , but I remember a post with fellow member, Navydevildoc, on LRRF, when he changed service hoses and started working on front wheels , removing vacuum brake lines and bleeding at the same time , is this OK ?
I am gonna start changing all the components in front wheels, I don't have too, but I would like to... but if it is absolutely necessary to start swapping brake lines and bleed from the rear , I will do just that ...any tips ,brothers ?
I gathered all the necessary parts and will tackle and wrestle control arms , brake hoses, tie rods and air struts early morning.Already scheduled an appointment for alignment and hight sensor calibration on Monday, so I better hurry up , lot's of things to do !!!
One question though...
I know that brake bleeding procedure requires starting at the very rear and opposite to master cylinder wheel , but I remember a post with fellow member, Navydevildoc, on LRRF, when he changed service hoses and started working on front wheels , removing vacuum brake lines and bleeding at the same time , is this OK ?
I am gonna start changing all the components in front wheels, I don't have too, but I would like to... but if it is absolutely necessary to start swapping brake lines and bleed from the rear , I will do just that ...any tips ,brothers ?
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Corrigan
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