Richard,
Did u I spect the old compressor? Sometimes the fillings inside the mechanism get loose and travel inside the suspension/vacum lines interfering with the computer. I ended up converting my LR3 to coils because the all system was compromised.
My advise..check the lines and valves for any contamination..if so unfortunately you will continue to get all sort of codes untill the system is completely cleaned. Good luck to you.

 

Hi Roverrrgirl, I didn't replace the compressor myself, I had a garage to it for me (unfortunately it wasn't a Land Rover Specialist), however a local Land Rover specialist has quoted £100 to do the remap for the AMK compressor this evening and suggested checking the exhaust silencer as this could give the same error code apparently https://uk.autologic.com/news/top-tip-range-rover

Cheers

 

Hi All, Sorry to highjack the thread!

I need your help!

I have a LR3 - My Hitachi Pump failed so I bought a German replacement (Hitachi Style), I fitted it and hey presto it was working. I took my truck into Europe last week and it all went wrong! The suspension would state “suspension Fault” Seconds after turning the engine on. Sometimes I will get the Max speed 30MPH error too.

I have JLR SDD tool so I’ve done the following:

-updated the firmware for the pump
-reset the suspension tolerance

I did not reset the Ride level control unit has it required measurements which I don’t have the tool for.

The errors I’m getting are:

C1A13-64

U0421-68

I have replaced the compressor for another one as i thought this was faulty but this has made no difference. The Compressor does not make any noise - with exception of when you have switched the engine off you can hear an electrical buzz or high pitched whistle coming from the compressor.

ive checked the lines are plugged into the compressor correctly I’m not sure what else to do?

Any help would be amazing!

Thanks

D

 

First off, I would not be changing your "new" Hitachi out for the AMK. The Hitachi is a good compressor; the primary reason LR switched to the AMK was lack of supply of the Hitachi - their factory in Japan got flooded and production stopped.

My view re Land Rovers is that rarely is there only one problem to be fixed and hence when one starts the task, even when one does resolve concerns, there are still problems - they never seem to end.

I expect pretty much of what you have already done was work that required doing, however there are still problems remaining to be found.

The link below shows wiring that you might find in the left front wheel well where for some reason, either the connectors or the wiring to the connectors becomes corroded. I suggest you look there as it seems to me you have resolved most of the concerns and what is left is intermittent. I had a problem there once that showed up as an ABS problem and suggested a new ABS system.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post934961.html#934961

Another problem area, but one I do not think is applicable for you is the connector going into the rear of the instrument cluster becomes loose and has to be unplugged and plugged back in. It often shows up as a fuel or temperature gauge acting up or warning lights coming on for no apparent reason or the engine just plain not starting - really unfun.

 

So I have been without Randy (my 08 LR3) for two months now. Getting this same code that no one locally can figure out. I'm about 1.5 hrs away from a dealer and don't want to haul it there.
I've put in a new AMK compressor which is the same I was running. Used the GAP tool to update it. When that didn't help I was fiddling with hose connections again and the compressor turned on when the main line running out of the compressor was unattached the compressor kicked on. So I pulled the center valve block (reservoir valve block) and opened it up to check for debris and a general cleaning. Reinstalled and nothing changed. So thought maybe the solenoid was bad and bought new valve block. No change. So I disconnected the line from the valve block that is going in to the reservoir tank and the compressor turns on but only for a few seconds until it kicks a fault.

So my question to all y'all is...I'm thinking of snaking a weed wacker plastic line through the hoses to see if there is blockage I can dislodge. I'm assuming the compressor doesn't turn on because of a block which makes it think the system is full of air. ???

Thoughts?

 

Well, I went ahead and tried to get that weed wacker line in as far as I could. Put everything back together. I turned on the car and holy shizballs it was working! I was watching the live values and the compressor was getting pretty hot and the gallery pressure was at 225ish. I've read you shouldn't let the compressor stay hot for too long so I turned the car off thinking I had finally won! Turned it back on a bit later and same problems, same codes, same depression!!!! I bought a rear control valve block I think I'm going to install. When testing valves I can get the all four corners to raise with the new air. but they won't lower. When I select "Deflate corners" only the front two struts lower. So maybe it's the rear central valve block?????????????????

 

Temperature - you might be on to something.
You said you are using the AMK compressor rather than the original Hitachi. One difference between the two units was the AMK is supposed to have an internal high temperature shutdown and the Hitachi, just a heat sensor that talks to some computer somewhere that is programmed with some sort of temperature limit. That is one of the reasons one is supposed to program for the AMK - to kill off the air system computer temperature sensor circuit.

Also I do not think the air system should go to 225 psig but maybe that is just with the Hitachi - there was a software mod to drop the max pressure to about 205 psig (14 bar) on the Hitachi to improve compressor life.

What I am getting at is that I do not think you have plugged pipes or bad valves, but some sort of electrical and or overheat or temperature sensing problem.

Have you installed a new compressor 70 amp relay in the engine compartment fuse box? In theory, every new compressor install should have a new relay. You might have a sticking, or not, relay as I think that relay works too hard for its design rating.

Stay away from a Land Rover dealer - if you need help, find an independent but my suggestion is just keep plugging away. You seem to have a good understanding of the system and certainly will once you get it going again - it is part of the challenge of owning a Land Rover..

The link below is to a number of air system files, most over a couple of thousand views and some having between 4,000 and 6,000 views so some must think the files have merit. There is a file on the relay as well as all else in the air system.

Keep us updated.

https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thu...php?album=3778

 

Maybe I'm just spoiled, but my local LR dealership has a lower labor rate for Rovers that are older than ~2012 and are very competitive (often lower priced) than the local indy shops. I also get the hookup, but after almost 16 years of faithfully coming to only the dealer, that should be expected, I think.

 

What you have is the way it should be.
Back when I purchased my 3, the dealership was a two car showroom that was also the customer lounge and the service desk area as well as the mechanics coffee room.
Now the dealership is the generic white box called a store and I guess somewhere in the rear is a shop where piecework types toil.
I am fortunate that my Independent is per my first description.

 

I'm currently working on a similar issue with my LR3. The compressor is an AMK unit and appears to be functioning although the dryer tank was quite wet. I just replaced the dessicant and o-rings for the dryer, valve and solenoid.

Quick question: you said the exhaust valve is working, how did you test this? I attempted to power up my solenoid valve during the rebuilt and didn't see any movement or hear any clicking.