Check engine light after swapping water pump
#1
Check engine light after swapping water pump
New to Land Rovers, but not new to working on vehicles. I have an 06 4.4L that suddenly developed a coolant leak. Swapped the water pump after locating the leak at the weep hole on the side of the pump. Drained all of the coolant, and replaced, took a while to bleed all the air out, but no issues. Cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor while I had everything torn apart. Cranked engine, and its now running better than ever. Took it for a test drive to the store, no issues. Crank it back up to go home, and about three miles in the CEL comes on. Still running perfect, and no obvious issues. Used my OBDII reader, and there are no codes. Looking for suggestions, thanks in advance.
#3
#4
The only time I have seen a CEL and no codes, is one of two scenarios. Either there IS and engine code and the software in the OBD Reader sucks, or there is a transmission code that forced the CEL on. Normally with Rovers, any transmission code will trigger a secondary message on the display.
If it comes back on and you still show no codes, try another OBD tool.
If it comes back on and you still show no codes, try another OBD tool.
#6
Light came back on, so I went to the local parts store to have them read the codes. Came back with P0171 and P0174, system too lean. I continued to drive it, and at the next fill up, I added Sea Foam to the tank, and since the oil was about a quart low, I added half a bottle of Sea Foam to the engine. Drove it around the rest of the day, and then when I started it up this morning the codes were clear. I suppose it could have all been caused by bad gas, but who knows.
#7
Seafoam is a good cleaner, one of the few "snake oils" that I have had proven results with. With that said it will not really improve the gas at all and you will want to do an oil change soon, of course.
But if you are getting two of those codes, one for each bank, it indicates a system-wide vacuum leak. Since you just did the pump I would suspect the intake duct plastics after the MAF (a leak before the MAF would not cause codes as it would be metered air). So I would make sure all the dust work is properly in place Also check for any cracks, specifically near the worm clamps. I have a couple cracks in mine. Its like the plastic shrinks and the metal support on the inside (under the worm clamp) causes the shrinking plastic to stress then crack.
But if you are getting two of those codes, one for each bank, it indicates a system-wide vacuum leak. Since you just did the pump I would suspect the intake duct plastics after the MAF (a leak before the MAF would not cause codes as it would be metered air). So I would make sure all the dust work is properly in place Also check for any cracks, specifically near the worm clamps. I have a couple cracks in mine. Its like the plastic shrinks and the metal support on the inside (under the worm clamp) causes the shrinking plastic to stress then crack.
The following users liked this post:
AF-LR3 (10-29-2019)
#8
Re-reading your original post. When you cleaned the TB, did you remove it by chance? If so that may be your issues. The metal gasket is one-time use really. But ideally one using some high-temp sealant. I prefer Reinzoil. Apply a very thin film on each side of the TB gasket and the EGR gasket. I had a lean code and this took care of it.
The following users liked this post:
AF-LR3 (10-29-2019)