Command Shift NOT WORKING
#1
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Hudson Valley, New York
Posts: 230
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7 Posts
Command Shift NOT WORKING
So, I recently had a land rover tech (not at dealership) so some work to the linkage at the transmission because my shifter was getting hard to move.
Inexpensive job and the truck came back and it moves around quite easy now.
A week after I got the truck back my dog, sitting in front seat, knocked the shifter into command shift when i realized it doesn't work.
It's just sitting in auto still. Weird. It does NOTHING. It throws no faults, etc. Just like I were in Auto. I can flip it up, or down (As to upshift downshift) and it just drives on, clearly in auto still because the RPMS are telling me it's in Auto.
Any guidance on where to start?
Thanks Forum.
Inexpensive job and the truck came back and it moves around quite easy now.
A week after I got the truck back my dog, sitting in front seat, knocked the shifter into command shift when i realized it doesn't work.
It's just sitting in auto still. Weird. It does NOTHING. It throws no faults, etc. Just like I were in Auto. I can flip it up, or down (As to upshift downshift) and it just drives on, clearly in auto still because the RPMS are telling me it's in Auto.
Any guidance on where to start?
Thanks Forum.
#5
I feel bad reviving this thread after 9 years. Unfortunately, I have scowered this forum for something similar and I think one of comment of @threalassmikeg above is very similar to my problem. So I bought my LR3 4-5 months ago and my command shift did not work but discovered that turning the headlamp on activates it. SPORT MODE and manual 1,2,3,4,5 etc was working as long as I have the headlamp on. Very strange indeed. But a month ago, the manual gears stopped working and only SPORT MODE works. Hoping to hear from anyone that has similar issues and what was done to fix it. Thanks
#6
I had same problem. Was corrosion on a circuit board connector just below the shift lever. Cleaning it did nothing for me, so likely a chip or resistor burned out.
I replaced with new shift selector assembly and was around $240. Came with a new shift cable, which is easy to attach to trans lever. I see one on eBay now for $118. If you buy used, get closeup photos of the connector on right rear corner as you look down at it. A lot of people have had the same issue with water.
That connector is a little tricky and could have not been engaged all the way. Try that first. It’s one where you have to push down a tab that is hard to see and swing away a lever to release. Pins are tiny, so be careful that it’s engaged. The mechanic could have bent some pins during reassembly.
to get there, you need to remove center console. Might take you an hour or two....pretty easy really.
Good luck!
Now that I think about it, you can check the connector and I think you can even pull the whole assembly also without removing the console. Just pull the shifter surround. There were four 10mm bolts holding the plastic shifter assembly to the body. Getting the connector off is easier if you remove those bolts as the assembly can rotate to give you better access to the connector retaining clip.
I replaced with new shift selector assembly and was around $240. Came with a new shift cable, which is easy to attach to trans lever. I see one on eBay now for $118. If you buy used, get closeup photos of the connector on right rear corner as you look down at it. A lot of people have had the same issue with water.
That connector is a little tricky and could have not been engaged all the way. Try that first. It’s one where you have to push down a tab that is hard to see and swing away a lever to release. Pins are tiny, so be careful that it’s engaged. The mechanic could have bent some pins during reassembly.
to get there, you need to remove center console. Might take you an hour or two....pretty easy really.
Good luck!
Now that I think about it, you can check the connector and I think you can even pull the whole assembly also without removing the console. Just pull the shifter surround. There were four 10mm bolts holding the plastic shifter assembly to the body. Getting the connector off is easier if you remove those bolts as the assembly can rotate to give you better access to the connector retaining clip.
Last edited by Geo; 08-11-2018 at 04:27 PM.
#8
#9
Thanks @Geo for the advice. I have been more active in the LR3,LR4 facebook page and completely forgot about this post.Yes, I did check that connector you mention. Mine did not have any signs of corrosion at all but at any rate I will keep looking at Ebay for good deals.
So in Ebay they have the Shift Selector for sale without the cable. Do you think it is easy to replace the unit using old cable? I just need to know if it can be done. Or I'm even thinking if the circuit board can be swap, saving time. Lastly, I'm so lucky Abran actually is pretty close to Long Beach, I have been occasionally going to his shop for other important repairs or maintenance.
Thanks
So in Ebay they have the Shift Selector for sale without the cable. Do you think it is easy to replace the unit using old cable? I just need to know if it can be done. Or I'm even thinking if the circuit board can be swap, saving time. Lastly, I'm so lucky Abran actually is pretty close to Long Beach, I have been occasionally going to his shop for other important repairs or maintenance.
Thanks
#10
I haven’t came across any other people with the same symptoms as you, so not sure. I did just read a post (here, I think) about a dealer adjusting a “T bar” from underneath that allowed truck to go into sport mode, so it could be mechanical.
I was able to pull the board to look at it, it wasn’t too hard to figure out. Couple of screws and it slid out, if I recall correctly.
The assembly is 4 10mm bolts. Since I bought new, the shifting felt like a new truck and was worth the money to me.
Doubt if the cable is difficult to remove, but you may need to adjust from underneath if the cable is a little different length.
good luck!
I was able to pull the board to look at it, it wasn’t too hard to figure out. Couple of screws and it slid out, if I recall correctly.
The assembly is 4 10mm bolts. Since I bought new, the shifting felt like a new truck and was worth the money to me.
Doubt if the cable is difficult to remove, but you may need to adjust from underneath if the cable is a little different length.
good luck!