I drove it a lil bit and temp gauge relatively stable. But its only blowing cool air even i set cabin temp to max. There r still lots bubbles in poping inside the coolant tank. I took sum pix under the car. Can any1 tell .e where is lower radiator hose?

 

Just as a point of reference here, in my experience the LR3 is the most difficult car I have ever owned to bleed properly. I have had to do it 3 times now and each time is has been a very long and involved effort. I’ve used the bleeder tee under the engine cover, I’ve left the cap off the reservoir as it heated up, I’ve tried to do it the way LR calls for, but it always takes a long time and a lot of patience. If I was to do it again today, I would absolutely buy a vacuum bleeder as Armyrover suggested.

Now, this is just my experience... Perhaps other have had more success.

 

I just opeded this Tee but didnt seem to have any air pressure built up from it.

 

That looks like the bleeder T to me...oh, while you're at it you should replace that POS with a brass one.

 

Yes, that’s the highest point of the cooling system and I suppose the reason they have the bleed screw there. However, according to the LR workbook instructions for bleeding the system, you’re not supposed to use that. It only calls for using the bleed screw on the reservoir tank. Like I said, I’ve had difficulties, so I’ve tried a bunch of ways. I settled on the method LR calls for (just using the reservoir), but keeping that bleed screw in the reservoir open while the engine is running and the coolant heating up. Of course, you want to close it before the coolant gets too hot and the pressure builds to where it will overflow. After the engine warms and coolant cycles, I just let it sit until everything cools and then do it again. I think I usually have to do this quite a few times before all the air escapes.

 

Hi Every1
This is a future reference for myself and you. This morning I came across a youtube video and it was like presented for me by google. They do know everything we search so that vid was given to me. There was air in the coolant system, and there is a way to get rid of all the air. Its simple. You park LR3 or all other Land Rovers on a uphill. Air always go up so the front of your LR has to be up. Close the cap and screw of the coolant tank and put the car on neutral. Rev up engine to about 3k to 4k RPM for about 1 minute and let it idle for 1 minute. If at any point in time the engine overheat in this process, turn off the car immediately. At the beginning, I'm sure your engine will overheat if there is air in the system. Turn off the engine, and slowly loosen the coolant tank cap, let some air out. You will see a lot of bubbles coming out. The water will go into the system as air comes out. Pour water in as you go. Repeat this process until there is no more air no more bubbles coming out. And I just achieved it. Hot air is blowing now. No more overheat now. No more air bubbles coming out. I will drain all the water out maybe in a few days. And put new filtered water in 1 more times, repeat all these process 1 more time to completely flush the system. And then put new coolant water mix in.

 

You mentioned something that makes me want to point something out: I don't know where you are getting your information from, but I would never run just distilled H2O in my cooling system in ANY modern car. At a 50/50 mix, the addition of proper coolant/antifreeze actually increases the boiling point of the mixture. With pure H2O you are setting yourself up for possible boiling within the engine which can yield some bad outcomes. You may not see it around town, but put some altitude and stress on the motor to generate some serious heat and things may get interesting quickly.

Do what you feel is correct, and if you want to run pure water in there - it's your truck. But the thought of that just makes me cringe. I would follow the manual if I were you.

 

I agree completely about this engine being the most temperamental when it comes to air issues in the coolant system.
Without fail my beloved LR3 HSE with a 190k miles on it now has required almost yearly major burp in it's system. I believe it has something to do with the heater core design, as I have found now two sage pieces of advice in over coming an airlocked system.
How do you know you have an airlocked system?

• Bombastic sudden overheating of coolant.

Each time my wife was driving and I get a panicked call that the engine was blowing up or burning up, and it really was just massive amounts of steam from under the hood.
Each time gratefully she pulled over and saved the engine from actually burning up.
I don't know each of the places that overheated coolant escapes the system en masse, as there seems to be a valve around the left manifold, but the major thing that happens with out fail is the main intake hose to the radiator (which is 3/4 up on the lefthand side of the radiator) blows itself partially off its neck.
I think locking pressure causes this as well as the fact that coolant does get heated well above it's boiling point and the pressure helps blast the hose off its neck.

• Get the right coolant fluid 1.5 gallons should do it. I find getting the 50/50 coolant makes it easier.
• Let the engine completely cool down 45 min or so depending on ambient air temperature. (This usually happens to my vehicle in late fall or early winter. )

1. Follow the LR guidelines generally - to fill the reservoir
2. then start engine
3. Turn heater on max fan, max temperature
4. Gently rev engine to 2500 - 3500 RPM for a few minutes watching the water temp gauge.
5. Give it a rest at idle, get out and loosen the Fill Cap momentarily and see if anything happens.

--- You are looking for:

• a big BURP which demonstrates by the amazingly quick emptying of the reservoir of coolant. (Not just the coolant valve opening)

OR (after the big burb)

• minor burping seen by moderate air release / bubbles via the top bleeder chamber (underneath the black plastic bleeder screw) on the top front of the coolant reservoir.

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until "the burp" happens
7. Fill coolant reservoir to top fill line.
8. Repeat steps 4 and 5 ON AN INCLINE (front up, rear down) to quickly bleed air traps out of the system as noted by air bubbles blown back out of the tiny over bleed chamber at the top front of the coolant reservoir.
9. Stop process when burping largely ceases.
10. Test drive vehicle for 2-3 miles.
11. Re-check coolant level in reservoir, top back up to top fill line.
12. Dont over tighten fill cap.
Note:

• I never use bleeder screw, prefer just the fill cap.
• Rinse and wash off radiator fluid from painted surfaces as quickly as safely possible, being careful NOT to spray water onto a hot or overheated engine. Wait until engine is cooled down and always be conservative with amount of water used directly on or around the engine block both upper and lower.

Wait for 1 year until it blows it's stack again, and repeat.

 

When I unscrew Reservoir bleeder some coolant comes out not air : (

 

I just replaced the plastic assembly in the coolant system and had some issues with getting all the air out but never saw overheating on the gauge. I followed the LR procedure and just kept running the car, letting it cool down and then add more coolant. Even driving around the block did not get warm air out of the vents. Refilled the coolant overflow tank at least 3 times before the level stabilized.
parking the front end higher than the rear is suggested for other LR models as well. Easy enough if you have ramps.