Coolant & Wiper Fluid Sensor Replacements, "Hood Open" Message
Last time the Disco 3 was at the mechanic he told me that messages I was getting are purely from the coolant reservoir sensors (no leak) and the wiper fluid reservoir sensor. While it doesn't have any affect, drives me nuts seeing the messages. I purchased the two sensors for under $12... fished around under the hood thinking it would be obvious and.... not so much.
Anyone have any idea if it's possible for a laymen like myself to change out these sensors that SEEM plug and play?
Second thing is a week or two ago and i popped the hood cause I actually needed windshield wiper fluid. Filled her up and closed the hood and got back in the car to get a "hood open" message. (not "bonnet, which is interesting). Opened it and closed it, and no such luck. Another sensor? Fiddling with the latch? Any suggestions?
Thanks all.
Anyone have any idea if it's possible for a laymen like myself to change out these sensors that SEEM plug and play?
Second thing is a week or two ago and i popped the hood cause I actually needed windshield wiper fluid. Filled her up and closed the hood and got back in the car to get a "hood open" message. (not "bonnet, which is interesting). Opened it and closed it, and no such luck. Another sensor? Fiddling with the latch? Any suggestions?
Thanks all.
What year is your 3? I find it interesting that the message is is hood rather than bonnet. It sounds like a software change.
The hood ajar switch is mounted on the passenger side, (right hand side), hood latch. You should see a two conductor cable leading to the right hand side latch where as there is no electrical cable leading to the left hand side bonnet latch.
Disconnect the electrical cable plug from the right hand latch and then with a short length of electrical wire, (16 gauge or there abouts), jump the two pins on the cable end of the plug. That keeps the circuit closed to ground and the hood open message should disappear. If this solves the problem, then you can purchase a new hood ajar switch that attaches to the latch. It is a common problem.
See page 223 re the hood ajar switch on the pdf link below which you can download and print out.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...222_to_226.pdf
The hood ajar switch is mounted on the passenger side, (right hand side), hood latch. You should see a two conductor cable leading to the right hand side latch where as there is no electrical cable leading to the left hand side bonnet latch.
Disconnect the electrical cable plug from the right hand latch and then with a short length of electrical wire, (16 gauge or there abouts), jump the two pins on the cable end of the plug. That keeps the circuit closed to ground and the hood open message should disappear. If this solves the problem, then you can purchase a new hood ajar switch that attaches to the latch. It is a common problem.
See page 223 re the hood ajar switch on the pdf link below which you can download and print out.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...222_to_226.pdf
Replacing the windscreen washer sensor is pretty easy; getting to it is not. I think about the only way to get to it is to remove the plastic bumper cover and that is a bit of a fuss. You may also access it by removing the front left wheel well liner but I thing about all you can do is look at it or feel it but not change it. The pdf below relates to a winch install but shows you how to get at the washer tank.
http://www.devon4x4.com/images/stori...te%20winch.pdf
The coolant sensor I do not know much about but that I think you should get a LR mechanic to replace it. I say that as the problem is not changing the sensor but allowing air to get into the cooling system. Do it wrong and you could be looking at a new engine. I am not overstating it - a mere thermostat change can be a real fuss due to air locks forming in the system. Do a search of thermostat changing on the various forums to get a feel for the air lock problem. Others may disagree.
To get a good look at the coolant tank, remove the grill and left head light assembly.
http://www.devon4x4.com/images/stori...te%20winch.pdf
The coolant sensor I do not know much about but that I think you should get a LR mechanic to replace it. I say that as the problem is not changing the sensor but allowing air to get into the cooling system. Do it wrong and you could be looking at a new engine. I am not overstating it - a mere thermostat change can be a real fuss due to air locks forming in the system. Do a search of thermostat changing on the various forums to get a feel for the air lock problem. Others may disagree.
To get a good look at the coolant tank, remove the grill and left head light assembly.
I found the jpg I was looking for. As below it shows the left front wheel well with the plastic inner liner removed. It is not that easy to remove the liner either and if you do, I suggest you first purchase a few of the plastic retainer clips, (ANR 2224) so that should some get broken, you have them on hand.
The round white bit with the electrical cable attached is the fluid level sensor. In the short term, you can just remove the cable and jump the contacts and that should eliminate the fluid level low message per the data below.
Copied from some LR data:
The low level sensor has a float, with integral magnet. The sensor has a contact, which is normally closed when the reservoir is full. When the fluid level reduces to approximately 1 litre, the magnetic float pivots down, which causes the switch contact to open. This open circuit is sensed by the instrument cluster, which displays the low fluid level message
and transmits the switch status on the CAN bus.
The same pretty much applies to the coolant sensor - just remove the electrical cable if you can get to it, and jump the pins. I do not think you can get to the cable however but you may get lucky.
The round white bit with the electrical cable attached is the fluid level sensor. In the short term, you can just remove the cable and jump the contacts and that should eliminate the fluid level low message per the data below.
Copied from some LR data:
The low level sensor has a float, with integral magnet. The sensor has a contact, which is normally closed when the reservoir is full. When the fluid level reduces to approximately 1 litre, the magnetic float pivots down, which causes the switch contact to open. This open circuit is sensed by the instrument cluster, which displays the low fluid level message
and transmits the switch status on the CAN bus.
The same pretty much applies to the coolant sensor - just remove the electrical cable if you can get to it, and jump the pins. I do not think you can get to the cable however but you may get lucky.
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steveo2000
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Sep 8, 2015 08:00 AM




