No, it blew the breather tube apart. Gear oil got all over drivers side front wheel well. The breather was plugged prior, so it did not allow pressure to equalize like the updated one does, thus the air pressure plus oil expansion did the damage.


TO THE GUY WHOSE DEALER SAID THEY WOULDN'T DO IT:
Your dealer should be able to order it if you ask. They shouldn't tell you they wont do it. Mine simply says they don't suggest it unless you start to have problems with your diff but it should be easy enough to get.

Picture below shows my receipt when I got mine. Breather cap is the third item.

 

Just received my breather cap from the dealership. When I ordered it, the parts department had no real idea of what it was for.
When I snipped the top of the old breather I got quite the WHOOSH of built up pressure. Everyone need to get this done. If your old breather is not clogged yet, it soon will be!
Remember, most people that take the time to read these forums will be MUCH more informed that any parts department clerk. Don't let them tell you its not needed. Especially if they say it's not needed until you have diff problems or a leaking diff. WTF? Ever heard of preventative maintenance?

 

Just ordered from Rover North. All this time I was just calling it a diff breather instead of the full proper name. When changing my fluid recently it literally gushed out the fill hole like it was under so much pressure. Thanks

 

Land Rover Parts Center - Call (800) 574-9217 for Genuine Land Rover Parts and Accessories

Search for part LR019450 its around $15.00

I do not agree with the dealer. This one blocks moisture from getting into the case.

Water + oil = foaming and decreased lubrication + rust.

I don't know that it is any better in terms of pressure release. For that just cutting the top of the old one off would be best but then it would allow water and moisture in.

I read quite a few posts on the amount of oil needed to fill the front diff.

Its seems to be an area of controversy and confusion as no one seems to know why. Warning are given without telling the "Why"

Unless its due to Eco stuff where they drop the amount of oil needed for NON engineering reasons. Another reason might be...

- They made the front Diff case like any other and the fill was at the bottom of hole. But in testing or maybe the first year there were issues with that much oil. What issues?

Foaming is one I can think of. Sometimes too much oil in a splash type set up (No active pump) air can mix in with the oil and cause foam. Add a little moisture and it really foams. The foam has less lubricating value then non foam.

Maybe this new vent cap prevents moisture from getting in which in turn will reduce the risk of foaming.

It seems that greater than 50% of the dealers are filling it to the fill hole and not using the .64 quart as recommended in manual.

Are we seeing blown seals from this? Are we seeing foaming issues?

It is a very very expensive part to replace so some information would be welcome.

 

Ok this is starting to make a little sense on why they may have lowered the amount of oil from fill cap to a really goofy .64 quarts. I mean who fills that way? No one.

.64 is probably the lowest amount that can provide decent lubrication and also will not build up pressure in case the vent is clogged. So even with a clogged vent .64 might not be able to build the kind of pressure needed to blow out the vent (or seal) and make a mess.

But what if the vent is not blocked?
Then I would say the fill line would be better, more oil = less heat = more dilution of impurities etc.

There had to be a a reason to bother to invent the new vent cap. They don't do it for no reason.

So with the new vent cap are you filling .64 or going to the fill hole level?

 

Hawke was yours filled to the fill line or .64 amount? Just wondering.

So the culprit is the cap itself getting clogged. The new one is superior in surface aread. Probably 20x more surface area than the tiny original. It still could get clogged too but will take much much longer.

The dealers don't care, if you blow up the gear box more money for them.

 

I had my rear diff changed by them last year. And they probably filled that to drain hole too.

Do you or anyone have a pic for the rear breather location?

Is it the same as to front breather? The tiny little plastic cap on it? Wonder if there is a replacement breather for the rear like the front. Or maybe could use the same one.

The new one claims to allow air to pass through but not water. So it might be better on the rear too.

 

Might want to show this to the dealers that think its not needed.
This is the 2009 LR Technical Service Bulletin.

It mentions the new breather cap is used for Front Differential Oil leaks.

They don't mention it specifically but it appears that pressure build up is causing some leaks. Probably all LR3 owners should get this part.

Also found this site that explains some on the breather.

"The design of the front differential breather cap was updated. This was to prevent
pressure build up in your LR3 or RRS. The result of the pressure build up could be blowing out your seals and a loss of oil.
Cut the tip off the old one at a 45 degree angle high side towards the radiator and fit the replacement by sliding it over the end as pictured."
http://centuriondifferential.com/lan...-breather-cap/

 

If you have a filter on your breather line, and it's clogged, you would have been better off without any breather at all. As for picking up moisture, I would have NO concern about the moisture in the air breaking your differential and causing 'foam' - Gear oil - I'd be impressed if you could get it to foam... I've never seen it, and have, on MANY occasions been draining and refilling differentials after underwater exposure. Comes out like a coffee milk shake... no foam, really.

As for the .64 qt fill - Yes, nonsense. That's so they can get through the warranty period, and that's it. Diffs would be good $ for them to replace often...

Gearsets are gearsets. The more oil you could have splashing, the overall cooling would be increased. Too much would be a bad thing, as it will press out the seals, but filling to the fill line would not do this, or anywhere close.

All of my previous trucks had air lines run up to the engine bay, most always simply left open. All the breathers do is let pressure/vacuum out, as the diff expands or contracts with heat. There are many types of ways to deal with this, if you were so concerned.

Axle Breather - 4 Wheel Parts

It's not rocket science by any means. More oil, the better. If you're changing your diff fluid at any sort of reasonable interval, moisture will be of no concern. The thick oil will always be splashing around when driven, and will coat every part in there that could rust... Let it sit for 10 years, may be another question...

Dave

 

Thanks Dave,

If you go on you tube there are lots of videos showing foam in the differential.

I think after a while it can't foam anymore so it depends on when you look.

It may foam for 2k miles then after awhile it gets grit mixed in, oil breaks down and it can foam no more then it turns into the black milkshake. So yo may have just missed the foaming stage. Water + oil will foam. Seen it many times in marine engines where water gets into the oil pan, its like a bubble bath and thrown rods are the end point.

It appears the real issues is clogging of the breather tube. If it clogs at the end its an easy fix, just cut the top off. What if it clogs near the bottom, by the gear box?

Makes me think that each time you change the diff oil one should take a air compressor and blow air down the vent tube to make sure its clear, air should exit.

Cutting the top off and putting a foam ball on it would probaby work fine.

I don't get the warnings LandRover gives on the new valve top. It says it must be pointing towards the rear or DAMAGE WILL RESULT. Like how?