vehicle not cranking
fault codes on dash :- engine management fault
temp guage reading hot and transmission fault and also realize the ac blowers not working,any idea what this could be?

 

The link below is about how to change the speaker within your instrument panel but provides good info and links as to how to remove your instrument panel as well as what the connector looks like on the rear of the instrument panel.

The fact your temperature gauge shows full hot reminded me of a thread re a 3 in Africa that would not start, or would, but would stop for no apparent reason. Also the temperature gauge showed full hot most of the time.

It took months to figure the problem out but it was just the single electrical connector in the rear of the instrument panel was loose.

Resetting the plug and all was well.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - No clicking!

 

I think i should start from the beginning.
The vehicle had overheated too the point where it melt one of the pistons and shut the vehicle down. I put in a recon engine, when i go to start up all these codes are on the dash and the temperature gauge goes straight to hot, engine not cranking. Any suggestions.

 

I assume you do not have an Land Rover computers or similar available.

As such, about all you can do to get rid of some of the codes from the previous problem is called a Hard Reset as below. Try it and see if any of the instrument panel warning lights go out. Also do you know if the problem that caused the overheating was resolved?

What country is the 3 in if you do not mind telling us?

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.) Also when I play with a car battery, I remove any rings I have from my fingers, also my watch.

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

The reason for this order is if a wrench or loose battery cable ends grounds to the body, no arcing or other bad things happen.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, (at least two minutes), as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you then just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes, (minimum five minutes), prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following order.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully none or at least fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.
You can also now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure. http://bit.ly/14WXXR1

http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic19547.html

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.
Disco3Club The Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Club • Login

 

will try the hard reset, thanks
The overheating was a hose,
The vehicle is located in Barbados

 

did the hard reset, still no joy, all codes still there, also getting a crank switch fault
In addition to the no start the electrical fuel pump in tank not powering up and the A/C blowers and power mirrors are not working.

 

How certain are you that the battery is fully charged?

Just because a few lights will go on does not mean the battery is strong enough to start the engine.

It can take 8 hours on a good charger to get a partially charged battery strong enough.

 

hey bbyer

thanks for the help, just checked the battery is at 11 volts, have put it on charge and will try again later. will get back to you

 

When all is shut down, 12.5 volts across the battery terminals is considered good. 11 volts is near dead when it comes to starting.

The battery may show near 14 volts when being charged but once off the charger and maybe a half hour later, a good battery fully charged will show about 12.5 volts.

Incidentally a bad battery can also show 12.5 volts but still have no power. An internally weak battery will rapidly drop back under 12 volts, (closer to 11 or less), with any sort of load on it, whereas a good battery may not go much under 12 volts with a light load.

 

Hey BByer

Its been awhile since my last post... i want to say thank you, it turned out the problem was the ground under the LH wheel arch. from the time i tightened the bolt the temperature gauge went down and the engine began to crank...... Now i am getting a crankshaft position sensor A circuit fault and the gauge not reading any RPM... i am hoping there is something else i can try before i attempt to change that sensor as its not a simple job....