Discovery 3 4.0V6 Starting problem
#1
Discovery 3 4.0V6 Starting problem
Hi there
I've been driving a Discovery 3 for the past 5 years with relatively little problems to date.
However, this morning, my trusty Land Rover refused to start. It turns over (cranks?) but never seems to start. This is strange, as it used to take within seconds.
I have however noticed something strange- there is a red flashing light inside the speedometer which keeps flashing(every five seconds or so). My best guess is that the immobiliser is failing to deactivate and thus keeping the car from starting.
Any input will be greatly appreciated
Will be posting pics of the flashing light soon.
Regards
I've been driving a Discovery 3 for the past 5 years with relatively little problems to date.
However, this morning, my trusty Land Rover refused to start. It turns over (cranks?) but never seems to start. This is strange, as it used to take within seconds.
I have however noticed something strange- there is a red flashing light inside the speedometer which keeps flashing(every five seconds or so). My best guess is that the immobiliser is failing to deactivate and thus keeping the car from starting.
Any input will be greatly appreciated
Will be posting pics of the flashing light soon.
Regards
#3
Fuel problems?
Perhaps you have a fuel delivery/electrical problem.
Check your fuses:
Engine Compartment,
Fuse #1 (white 25 amp) Fuel pump
2 (tan 5 amp) Pump leak detection (not sure if that means fuel pump?)
13 (red 10 amp) Fuel pump relay control
17 (blue 15 amp) Injectors
27 (5 amp) ECM
30 (10 amp) Auto Trans ECU
Glove box,
Fuse # 25 (5 amp) ECM
28 (5 amp) Fuse box engine compartment - ignition
40 (5 amp) Key-in Sense
44 (5 amp) Auto Trans selector
60 (5 amp) ECM
64 (5 amp) Auto Trans ECU
Everything was going fine with my '07 4.0L until one day it died randomly in the middle of the street. Turned out to be the fuel pump gave up. Quite an ordeal to repair as the vehicle had to be towed to a busy shop and then the fuel tank was removed to replace the pump. Also, had to remove the skid plate and bend it back to straight before it could be refit (as the tank is plastic it does not stay bent after a smashed skid plate is removed). All told it cost me $1,700 CAD, and then it leaked so they fixed the leak for free.
Check your fuses:
Engine Compartment,
Fuse #1 (white 25 amp) Fuel pump
2 (tan 5 amp) Pump leak detection (not sure if that means fuel pump?)
13 (red 10 amp) Fuel pump relay control
17 (blue 15 amp) Injectors
27 (5 amp) ECM
30 (10 amp) Auto Trans ECU
Glove box,
Fuse # 25 (5 amp) ECM
28 (5 amp) Fuse box engine compartment - ignition
40 (5 amp) Key-in Sense
44 (5 amp) Auto Trans selector
60 (5 amp) ECM
64 (5 amp) Auto Trans ECU
Everything was going fine with my '07 4.0L until one day it died randomly in the middle of the street. Turned out to be the fuel pump gave up. Quite an ordeal to repair as the vehicle had to be towed to a busy shop and then the fuel tank was removed to replace the pump. Also, had to remove the skid plate and bend it back to straight before it could be refit (as the tank is plastic it does not stay bent after a smashed skid plate is removed). All told it cost me $1,700 CAD, and then it leaked so they fixed the leak for free.
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cobralootman
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12-05-2006 02:38 AM