got rid of the Lexus and added a D3 to the family to be my wife`s family wagon... I currently have a D2 for play and a 2500HD for work... So to beef hers up a bit and add some piece of mind at the same time for reliability reasons I thought this would be worth writing up...


so while reading up on the failures and troubleshooting of the eas... I stumbled upon how if you pull the fuse for the EAS computer the suspension will freeze the whole system and lock the release valves... so this allowed me to assure that my wifes car will hold air in suspension, hence no leaks (yet)...


once no leaks were found overnight.. I figured to inflate to offroad mode and then pull fuse... and left overnight... This thru my eyes with the exception of a yellow light on my dash simplifies the whole system from here forward... another light on dash is nothing unfamiliar coming from a D2 owner... now if suspension leaks it wont be because of an electrical glitch/fault, as I was currently having after getting a flat on a 285/35r22 6ply street tire... this would actually eliminate an elec error while offroad, so could prove usefull precaution for offroaders...


funny how this simple know how is FREE and nobody is writing about it (that I have found at least) thru this trick I have gained approx. 2.25 up front and 2.5in in back/rear... this should leave room in suspension to load up a good amount of groceries to level it back out...


pull the 26fuse in engine compartment... after you put into offroad mode...
doesn't matter if engine is running or not... the system never turns off... so that means engine off or on the computer still has power, so just yank it once at your height...


added trick I have thought of but haven't carried out yet is that if you pre load some weight on the front, or back I guess, id imagine say two guys sitting or standing on bumper, prior to pulling fuse, this would trick the computer to add more air up front, leveling it out before pulling fuse... NOTE hood would have to be closed prior to filling with air// this would accomplish the fact that you could still fine tune to your needs, if you want say prerunner look or to clear big tires if you don't want to lift it, but rather just lift the front 1in only...


I will have to experiment on the 1in front lift only and tell you latter on how to get the right weight for the 1in of computer adjusted air... im sure whatever height is chosen will require a proper wheel alignment at that setting... good luck, show pics of your ride to show support.... keep in mind this will get you out of the tire shop if your wheels don't fit, wink, wink... same thing as any rodmod kit or similar at least.... NOTE this is temporary fun till I calibrate new height settings into computer....

 

The link below is to a file in my album regarding the F26E fuse removal technique. There are also a number of files showing the air system as line drawings etc.

Since I wrote it up a few years back, the technique has been picked up by owners in Australia as one way to be certain to remain high when fording creeks at speed etc - and you do not even have to lay on your back to implement the procedure.

Also it has allowed others to get back to civilization.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch

This relates to the air line connectors.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - FASKIT Air Suspension Installation

This relates to the air compressor.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060

 

UPDATE:


1 INCH LIFT


load air to offroad setting, load until air compressor turns off....


open hood, and remove 26fuse....


turn off truck


now this part can be tricky but, is do able...


while truck off, re-install fuse and maybe like 5-10 seconds later pull it back out before all the air is released...


AND THATS IT... YOU NOW HAVE A 1 INCH LIFT ON A ''CLOSED'' AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM....


front fender 3'' to 4''
rear fender 4'' to 5 1/4''






AND TO BBYER:
much credit to you, as it was from your links I was able to learn about the system and how to use it to my advantage.... thought Id convert the info over to a simple lift technique... so... Thank You for YOUR info...


QUOTE: Removing F26E fuse will stop the auto levelling action and also inhibit any other down to the stops signals, (engine running or not). When F26E is removed, no power can flow thru to F3E, hence removing F3E is more for insurance than an absolute requirement.


ADD'L QUOTE:To keep the suspension from going down to the stops when driving, (or parked), it appears that it is only really necessary to remove F26E to depower the exhaust valve and generally keep all the valve block solenoid valves in a closed position trapping whatever air is within the air springs.

 

I don't know about this being so much a "trick". And yes we do this regularly out on the trail when a system freaks out and dumps to bump stops


IMO the biggest issue is you lose all the benefits of the air system - the ability for cross linking to simulate a solid axle and articulate.


If you want a permanent lift, just get the IIDTool/Faultmate and jack it up when you want.

 

A guy in Australia sells an all electronic option to control height.

One just dials the height setting in from inside the cabin. There is also a super high height available as well, all from inside, and super low I think as well.

Link to LLAMS link on AULRO

LLAMS electronic height controller for D3/D4/RRS - Australian Land Rover Owners

 

If you're getting the error light on the dash does that mean your traction control doesn't work as intended, or is it still functioning at 100%? I was under the impression that with error lights related to EAS, the TC would not function properly, hence the reason the coil conversion kits include a way to re-program and avoid the warning light.

 

The air suspension light has two colours - amber and red as below.

As to the anti skid or other systems being shut down, I am not certain but for the most part all continues to operate. If there is a system shutdown, a message as to which system comes up on the centre display - or is supposed to.

However, what the computer decides is a real problem will cause the air system to deflated and the vehicle drops on to the rubber axle stops - that feel like cast iron when inside. One is forced to slow down to perhaps 20 mph because the ride is so bad.

And yes, the suspension light will be red but I think the anti skid will still be operational.

Cruise control will not be operational but there will be a message to that effect as well.


As to the various Terrain Response traction programs, you will be happy that you have D still functioning. If Terrain Response is not available, you should also get a message saying that, but that would be with the red light, not amber.

Generally all you get is Cruise Control Not Available.

Below is from a LR document.


If a fault is detected by the air suspension control module, the control module will reduce the system functionality dependent on the type and severity of the fault. The control module will also store a fault code which can be retrieved using T4. If a severe fault occurs, the control module will attempt to put the vehicle in a safe condition. A fault is relayed to the driver by the illumination of the air suspension warning indicator, the instrument cluster message center and an audible warning emitted from the instrument cluster.

If the detected fault is minor and does not affect vehicle safety, the air suspension warning indicator in the instrument cluster will illuminate in an amber color and the fault should be rectified at the earliest opportunity.

If a more severe fault is detected above 31 mph (50 km/h) vehicle speed, the warning indicator will illuminate in a red color and the vehicle should be driven with care until the fault is rectified

An audible warning is emitted by the instrument cluster sounder when the warning indicator is illuminated. The indicator will change to an amber color and the audible warning will stop when the vehicle speed is reduced.

 

Diagnostics
The air suspension control module can store fault codes which can be retrieved using T4. The diagnostic information is obtained via the diagnostic socket which is located in the lower instrument panel closing panel, on the driver's side, below the steering column.

The diagnostic socket allows the exchange of information between the various control modules on the bus systems and T4 or a diagnostic tool. This allows the fast retrieval of diagnostic information and programming of certain functions using T4.

Fault Detection

The air suspension control module performs fault detection and plausibility checks. Fault detection is limited to faults that the control module can directly measure as follows:

• Sensor electrical hardware faults
• Valve electrical hardware faults
• Sensor and actuator supply faults
• Bus failures
• Control module hardware errors. Plausibility checks are checks on signal behavior, as follows:
• Average height does not change correctly o Height changes too slowly
• Gallery pressure
• Does not increase fast enough when reservoir filling requested
• Increases when system is inactive
• Too low when lifting is requested
• Increases too rapidly when filling reservoir
• Does not decrease when gallery is vented
• Pressure varies too much when inactive.
• Compressor temperature
• Sensor voltage too large - head and brush sensors (short circuit to battery)
• Takes too long to be readable after suitable compressor run time - head and brush sensors
• Does not increase when compressor active - head sensor only
• Sensor activity
• Signal floating
• Constant articulation when moving

When a fault is detected, the air suspension control module will attempt to maintain a comfortable ride quality and where possible will retain as much functionality as possible.

The system functionality depends on the severity of the fault.

Faults

Faults are categorized into order of severity and effect on the system as follows (with 1. being a minor fault and 5.being a major fault):

• Height sensor faults (hardware faults) and reservoir valve block failure
• Retain full functionality with no 'refinements', e.g. cross-link valves inoperative, no compensation for uneven surfaces.
• Pressure sensor faults, compressor faults, corner valves stuck shut
• Road speed signal not available
• Vehicle returns to on-road mode height when next requested
• Levels at 'current' height.
• Reservoir valve stuck open, exhaust valve stuck shut if below on-road mode height, corner valves stuck open if above on-road mode height
• Vehicle returns to on-road mode height when next requested
• Does not level at 'current' height.
• Failure of multiple height sensors, cross-articulation when driving, calibration corrupted
• Vehicle lowers to bump stops.
• ABS module failure, CAN bus failure
• If the air suspension control module loses communications with the ABS module or the ABS module reports a fault, the air suspension control module immediately returns to the 'default' height, which is below the on-road ride height. Once at the default height, the control module will continue to level the vehicle at this height. It is unlikely that the fault will be in the air suspension control module. When the fault is repaired, the air suspension control module will resume full functionality but the error will remain in the control module memory.

For major faults the control module will not level the vehicle at the 'current' ride height. The control module freezes height changes until it receives a manual or automatic request for height change. The control module will return to standard height if possible and freezes once standard height is achieved.


If the suspension is above the on-road height and the air suspension control module cannot lower the suspension, all height changes will be frozen. The control module will issue a message on the high speed CAN bus which is received by the instrument cluster which displays a maximum advisable speed in the message center. an immediate 'freeze' of the vehicle height is caused by the following:

• Failure of more than one height sensor - vehicle on bump stops
• Implausible articulation symptoms detected -vehicle on bump stops
• Valve or solenoid failure - corner valve stuck open below on-road mode height or exhaust valve stuck shut above on-road mode height
• Stuck corner or whole vehicle (diagnosed using plausibility of the sensor inputs).

If height change is not possible, e.g. exhaust valve failed closed at off-road height or compressor failed at access height, the control module will not level or change height.

If the air suspension control module has a hardware fault, the control module will disable all air suspension functions. Detectable hardware errors include memory error, control module failure, calibrations errors.

Fault Messages
The air suspension has two methods which it can use to inform the driver of a fault in the air suspension system, the air suspension switch LED's and the instrument cluster message center.

When minor faults occur and the air suspension control module is able to level the vehicle to the 'current' ride height, the air suspension switch LED's will display the current ride height.

If the air suspension control module suffers a major failure and there is no air suspension control, all the control switch LED's will remain off.

If a fault occurs and the air suspension control module can determine the ride height and the vehicle is not above on-road mode height, the driver will be notified via a 'air suspension fault max speed 18.6 mph (30 km/h) message in the message center.

If the control module cannot determine the height of the vehicle, or the vehicle is above on-road mode height, cannot be lowered and the vehicle speed is too high, an air suspension fault message is displayed.

If the vehicle is restricted to on-road mode height an air suspension fault normal height only message is displayed.

 

x2 on what Mack says. Pulling fuses gets you the height but you lose the advantages of the air suspension. ...better to just spend the $400 and get an IIDTool.

 

I did this so called "Trick", and the orange suspension light would come on, and after that, when I got up to 25mph, it would turn red and do a few dings. Every 10 mph over 30, it would ding again. I am just curious if yours does this too, is there a way to disable the dinging?