Hmm not sure how to say this. Cheap had nothing to do with sticker prices. Cheaply made. The electrical quality does not match the sticker price. I have a HSE not need to spout out numbers cause you are excited you have an expensive car for all to see.

 

You misinterpret what I posted.
I never said the LR3 was cheap. Frankly I think it is a pretty impressive high tech vehicle compared to what else is out there in comparison. They were not "cheap" when they were new and they were not "cheaply made" either. At 5700lbs +/- they are built like a tank unlike all the other cookie cutter SUV's out there.

As far as spouting out numbers and being excited I have an expensive car for all to see???

Frankly I posted that so that any other recent purchasers can see what a nose dive these vehicles take when you drive them off the lot. A comparable Chevy Tahoe LTZ sells for more. I don't buy vehicles "for all to see", I buy them to put them to the use I need them for.

 

My view is that all vehicles in the States are cheap.

Up here, an LR4 HSE on the dealer showroom floor runs about $95,000 plus tax and in Australia, about $105,000 plus taxes. In both cases, our standard full load HSE is stripped compared to a full load USA spec HSE. Our dollar is worth about 90 cents US so I wondered what a new LR4 runs in the States now. If all was equal, it would be about $90 thousand; I expect your dealer showroom price is significantly less - my guess is about $75 thousand.

The real question however is the price on a used car lot. The odds are a Tahoe LTZ holds it price better than the LR4 which works for us to some degree.

What is interesting is that used, the LR4 is apparently holding its price better than in the past. The reliability has improved and the dealers are gaining some knowledge of how to fix them, hence resale price is better.

It is a combination of less to fix in the first place and the dealers being more knowledgeable. Additionally, Toyota has been helping out by being more in the news over reliability issues than LR.

 

OUCH!
Two weeks ago was at the local LR dealer to order a spare key.
Nice 2013 leftover Black LR4 on the showroom floor. HSE Lux, one or two other extras "Special Price-$49,999".

Needless to say when I came back three days later to get the key it was gone.

 

Forgot to add this footnote to the 2013 leftover LR4.
Amazing thing was that the MSRP base price was less than the MSRP base price of the 2006 that I bought.

The total with the option packages on the 2013 was darn near even with the total with the option packages on the 2006.

You don't see that very often from a manufacturer, a slight redesign and rebadging seven years later and the price is still the same.

 

This LUX name seems to have replaced the HSE designation or kind of got added. Myself, I cannot quite figure out what is included and missing, but in this case, I would wonder if that particular vehicle was a repo, so to speak. It just seems too low.

I have seen that sort of marketing in that if you press the matter, it is called a demonstrator, and sits on the showroom floor all shiny like; effectively, the only way you can tell is by looking at the odometer.

In this case, as it was a 2013, it at least had the 5.0L V8; that is I guess history now on the 2014 LR4's.

The sales guys are pretty silent about the "new" 3.0L V6 and forget to mention the missing low range transfer case - what you never had, you will never miss kind of thing - and no gear shifter in the middle any longer - apparently the flat area is sold as a purse shelf now - gone up market I gather.

Grab the next 2013 you see or forever hold your peace.

 

Did you get dropped as a baby? I was the one that said it was cheaply made not you. I did not misinterpret your post.

The original post was about Drivers Side Door lock. Then you high jack the thread with all this price information that has ZERO to do with the topic of the post.

If you have something to add about the drivers door lock issue go ahead.

 

Not off topic. You said the LR was cheaply made. I disputed that not only was it not cheaply made it was also not cheap when new. Compare it to what you get with the "competition". There is no comparison.

Back to your other problem. Take the door panel off and actuate the lock and see what it is or isn't doing.
If you don't have the mechanical ability to do that, no sense asking and just take it to the dealer get it fixed.

 

I do not think we got off topic; I think we were waiting for a response as to your progress related to the suggestions you already received.

I reviewed the thread and noticed posts from at least three different members with valid suggestions; yet no progress report on any of them. When that happens, the thread tends to go into a idle mode awaiting a response.

For one, I would be interested in knowing if the lock mechanically worked when you inserted the key; others would be interested in knowing the progress of their suggestions - the state of the fuse, for instance.

If the key did not function mechanically, that suggests a particular problem and its solution generally entails removing the door card, as was suggested in the above post. Removing the door card is however a whole other issue and if you have not done it before, you may wish to keep your options open. If not, you may be well advised to start searching the forums for a how to; one tricker aspect is not leaving the tweeter speaker bit still affixed to the door.

These forums tend to work on the basis of question, suggestion, feedback, and the loop continues until, surprise, quite often success, and we all learn. To a large degree, not only for the owners, these forums teach both the factory and the dealers how to resolve problems.

Normally as owners, we have the problems first, and it is only with time, that the dealers, and then very later on, the factory becomes aware of problems.

Land Rover, making mechanics out of drivers since 1948.

 

Update.

Still Broken,

May take door apart when weather warms up.