Hi Guys,

I have a D3 V8 petrol on 200k which has started to give a gearbox fault. Symptoms are in normal auto mode it throws the yellow light when changing from 3rd to 4th. After a while the red light comes on.
I've found that if I drive it in manual / command mode and then prolong the time in 3rd and then decelerate before changing manually to 4th, that this prevents the red light from ever happening, although the yellow light does come on eventually but at least I can still drive it then.

What do you think is the issue? Probably involves buckets of cash right?
Thank you

 

Need codes. But could be anything from a failing solenoid to the transmission Medtronic connector being faulty or contaminated with transmission fluid if leaking. All a guess though with no codes to help narrow things down. A generic code reader may give you some ideas, but a Rover specific code reader could be a much bigger help.

 

Thanks for the reply.I'll get it read tomorrow and come back with the code

 

What are these yellow and red lights you're talking about ?, there are no trans fault lights only the big F on the dash then stored codes. First step would be to check codes then check the fluid level.

 

Sorry, I do mean the big F. I can avoid it if I drive in command mode and stay in 3rd for longer and then decellerate before moving to 4th. I hope to have the code read later today or tomorrow

 

I have the same issue at basically the same 200k klms, i have changed the valve body tube and bridge seals which improved it a little and my next move will be new solenoids and valve body rebuild kit.

 

Ok got some codes.Do these help to diagnose?
P0441-00
U0167-00
P0576-16
P0579-00

 

When listing code, please list the code name. Cause now I have to google each one to know what they are.

P0441 - Evap system is showing faulty, purge valve is suspect but could be gas cap. Basically EVAP has an issue. I have a theory that if evaporations is an issue you can unplug the vacuum system for it, which is the pipe onto the engine heading towards the back and connected to the rear of the throttle body housing adapter. Block both ends and if there is a major vacuum leak in the evaporations system it will not cause the engine to freak.

U0167 - Lost comms with vehicle immobilizer. Probably a ghost fault, a background fault that means nothing. Only an issue on starting and if it will not start.

P0576 / P0579- Cruise control input issues, could be a casualty code of the transmission faults. Either way, it should not be the cause of other issues.

What code reader was used? I am surprised there are no transmission codes. Even with a basic ODBII reader, but since I have only ever used readers specific to Rovers it may be the case that transmission codes need Rover specific tools to be read.

I think you need to go over the basics. Clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor in the intake pipe. MAF sensor is also a name for it. Two smaller torx screws, right next to the air filter. Clean it with electric parts cleaner or electrical contact cleaner only. Other cleaners can damage the sensitive filaments. Never touch the filaments. Spray inside and such to clean, reinstall. Then I would normally say to reset engine adaptations with a GAP tool. But you can try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes instead. A faulty MAF sensor can cause engine issues but also transmission issues.

Are there ANY other issues with the truck? How does it start, how does it idle? Etc, etc...

 

Hi and thank you for the your very helpful reply. I'll certainly try some of the things you mention, if only as a maintenance exercise.
The engine runs perfectly, no issues at all and idles well, quietly and stable, no hunting etc and produces strong power.

My local indie mechanic who looks after the car for me is advising a full gearbox rebuild at around eq $2500

 

I would try a transmission fluid change before spending money a rebuild.

Is the shifter itself difficult to move? It should shift smoothly and easily. If its tight, get under and spray the linkage with lubricant. Right side and at the front of the transmission pan. Hard to see, but you will see the cable end, looks like a rod, and the linkage. Silicone spray is best.