EAS Diagnostics/Replacement Path Forward
On my LR3, 2006, 158k miles:
So I've pulled the four fuses and even had my mechanic look at that EAS and found out the following:
Mechanic says fronts are leaking, rears may be leaking because the boots are torn and they are in bad shape, but he can't say for sure.
When I pull all four fuses and measure heights over time I found that the fronts are not dipping at all, but the rears are.
Figures:
FL - 33.50, 33.00, 33.00, 33.00"
FR - 33.00, 33.00, 33.00, 33.00"
RL - 33.25, 31.75, 31.25, 30.75"
RR - 32.25, 31.50, 31.00, 31.00"
I replaced the front valve block myself (before the Mech looked at it) as a shot at "the most common" failure so maybe that had some affect on the system but who knows.
I'm now debating on whether to try the rear valve block first, or go for the two rear shocks first, and then go from there.
If anyone has any additional thoughts/ideas please chime in.
I don't know why the fronts aren't dipping at all when he used soapy water and saw bubbles. I tried in both off-road and normal height modes and found similar results.
I have yet to use soapy water myself to troubleshoot yet but will if it may help further.
Thanks.
So I've pulled the four fuses and even had my mechanic look at that EAS and found out the following:
Mechanic says fronts are leaking, rears may be leaking because the boots are torn and they are in bad shape, but he can't say for sure.
When I pull all four fuses and measure heights over time I found that the fronts are not dipping at all, but the rears are.
Figures:
FL - 33.50, 33.00, 33.00, 33.00"
FR - 33.00, 33.00, 33.00, 33.00"
RL - 33.25, 31.75, 31.25, 30.75"
RR - 32.25, 31.50, 31.00, 31.00"
I replaced the front valve block myself (before the Mech looked at it) as a shot at "the most common" failure so maybe that had some affect on the system but who knows.
I'm now debating on whether to try the rear valve block first, or go for the two rear shocks first, and then go from there.
If anyone has any additional thoughts/ideas please chime in.
I don't know why the fronts aren't dipping at all when he used soapy water and saw bubbles. I tried in both off-road and normal height modes and found similar results.
I have yet to use soapy water myself to troubleshoot yet but will if it may help further.
Thanks.
If it were me, I would try the rear valve block first. I say this because it probably needs to be replaced at 158,000 miles regardless. And, if it fixes your problem, then it will have been SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper than replacing your shocks.
Also, while shocks do certainly go bad, I have seen a lot of stories on this and other boards of people who replace their shocks on the advice of their mechanic and it doesn't solve the problem. Rear valve block can be found online for around $160.
Also, while shocks do certainly go bad, I have seen a lot of stories on this and other boards of people who replace their shocks on the advice of their mechanic and it doesn't solve the problem. Rear valve block can be found online for around $160.
I was thinking along the same lines.
That's good info on shocks being noted as "bad" in the past but not always being the case.
When this really starting getting bad I did notice that low speed turning was becoming more cumbersome. The replacement of the front valve seems to have helped in that area, but not completely.
That's good info on shocks being noted as "bad" in the past but not always being the case.
When this really starting getting bad I did notice that low speed turning was becoming more cumbersome. The replacement of the front valve seems to have helped in that area, but not completely.
do the rear valve block. Had the same issue but with only one rear strut drooping. Turned out to be that sides fitting on the valve block was leaking. Much cheaper than replacing two struts. Can even be DIY but you need to lift the truck a bit to get the space between body and frame to open up a bit.
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