2006 Land Rover LR3, 137k miles. Engine light came on with message, "engine is under performing"...The mechanic has been trouble shooting it for 2 wks and is unable to find, as he says, the air leak. He charged $100, shrugged his shoulders and suggested that I take it to a shop with the proper equipment, which will blow smoke to find the leak. Seems silly but I am not a mechanic. I have the following codes:
P0072 - AMBIENT AIR TEMP INPUT
P0171 - LEAN BANK
P0174 - LEAN BANK
P0441 - INCORRECT PURGE FLOW
P0138 - LOST COMM. W/ALL TERAIN
P0155 - 87 TRANSFER CASE
P0562 - LOW VOLTAGE
P173C - CLUTCH ACT POSITION SENSOR CIRCUIT HIGH
P0902 - NO DESCRIPTION
P0900 - NO DESCRIPTION
P0634 - NO DESCRIPTION

I am aware that the tire sensors are no longer affixed, and the A/C needs to be charged.

I would appreciate any advice, I've owned it for 14 yrs and love my Rover!! Thank you!!

 

I will never understand why people post with no vehicle details. So.. I will have to ask. What engine? What transmission?

 

"bucking" is a dramatic description but usually means the suspension is in Access Height.

 

Or TC is failing.

 

I apologize, it's a V8, Automatic 8-speed ZF 8HP. Thank you for the prompt reply. I was hoping that Dakota would help me too! I've been reading all of the past threads. I did see where you mentioned to recalibrate the EAS on another bucking situation. Thanks!

 

Which is it? Bucking as in ride quality or a driveline/performance issue? Because with the clutch code, I assumed it would be more of an driveline issue.

 

It's a Driveline/Performance issue.

 

It hesitates when I give it gas, then it will buck several times, and then take off very quickly. Occassionally, it stalls in stop and go traffic. Idles high when first started. After a few mins, idle drops to normal. The bucking is now constant at every start up. It seems to stop after I've drove a few blocks however I can't turn it off or punch the gas, it will start bucking again.

 

Need voltage reading with engine off and battery settled (not running for at least 10 minutes). Need operating voltage on cold start. Preferably with a real meter.

At face value you could have a low starting voltage, that triggers an HDC fault. Other things point to transfer case. Crawl under and you will find two connectors. Unplug both and plug both back in, one is pretty small - this is a known solution actually. There can be just a little corrosion on these that cause issues and just re-plugging them in can actually help. But you seem to also have an EVAP fault, this could be letting metered air into the engine causing the performance issue. You can block the port onto the engine easily. Located behind the throttle body is a the platinum interface to the intake manifold (just a hunk of metal). Sorta buried just a bit and pointing strait back is a port for EVAP. Unplug the connector by squeezing. A rubber boot slides off if that makes it easier. Then block the port with something that will not get sucked in. You can drive like this, won't hurt anything. The hose does not need to be blocked for testing.

 

Thank you so much! Unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined so I will forward your advice to my mechanic. Thanks again!!