I'm know there are pads that are more susceptible to squealing than others, but I wonder how much of the squealing that people experience is due to not using or improper use of brake grease and/or tired springs that are supposed to hold the pads in.

One thing that you might want to try is using ceramic brake grease. Since our cars are so heavy, I'm sure our brakes get extra hot. The ceramic grease (e.g. Permatex makes a purple one) is supposed to hold up to higher temperatures better and might help with the squealing that some people are experiencing.

The only squealing that I've had with my Akebono ceramics is when I back out of the driveway and they're cold.

 

Ferro-carbon is more commonly known as Carbon Metallic. Pretty good initial bite, usually decent as temperatures increase. They can be a little dusty.

 

I don't even know why they make Greenstuff for truck applications. I wouldn't use Greenstuff on anything larger than a midsized sedan or coupe.

If you're looking at EBC for the truck, the Yellowstuff is what you'll want, along with a brake fluid with a high enough boiling point. I alternate flushes between ATe SuperBlue and ATe TYP200. Both are exactly the same fluid, just different colors. Makes fluid flushes a lot easier.

 

Akebono time No dust, haven't found a fade point yet.

 

That's the advantage of ceramic pads... ceramic everything actually. Ceramic stuff just stands up better to heat than anything else. That being said, the EBC green pads are non-asbestos organic (NAO) and these are absolutely the worst kind of pad for our huge, heavy rigs.

I like my Akebonos, but as I experienced over this past winter, I had issues when just starting out when they wouldn't stop my car from rolling down the driveway!! I don't know if I somehow got ice between them and the rotor or if they were just that horrible when cold.

As far as fluid, I use Pentosin DOT4 LV, which is a low viscosity brake fluid (good for ABS systems - allows them to cycle faster) and meets the ISO 4925 Class 6 spec called for by Land Rover. I believe it has the same boiling point as the ATE Super Blue and is more easily available. Nothing wrong with ATE stuff though.

EDIT: Nope, I lied. I think the ATE boiling point is a bit higher.

 

Yup! I am spoilt by my long winding dirt road driveway so no issue warming up first AND its California, so Don and the others here don't need super good cold performance except for maybe winters in the Sierras.

I need to try them in this coming winter. If you can put up with mediocre pad life and a buttload of dust, those textars worked great when the Landy lived in the Virginia cold . I too have heard ok things about EBC yellows. But hey I know Bbyer is using akebonos up there in the great wild north...

 

Man...I had a set of Akebonos in the shopping cart ready to check out then at the last minute switched to Hawks since I had some history with them, albeit in a completely different application. The Akebonos were cheaper too.

ATE SupreBlue....haven't see that since my Alfa racing days! It was hard stuff to find back then!

 

Right now we run AC delce semi met on front and iirc ebc ceramics on rear cause I got the sets almost free, no complaints here

 

The DOT made it way, way harder a couple of years back, when they made it illegal for on-road use and ATe issued a stop sale order. I was lucky and caught wind of it the day the letters went out from Continental and bought 7 liters of it.

I think it's back for sale again, but stamped as off-road only.

The reason the DOT made it illegal? Because it's blue, and not amber.

 

That's the same problem we've had with the pads on our Baja turbo and our old DII. It's kind of spooky when you can't stop while backing down the driveway and a car is coming down the street. I literally had to stand on the brake pedal to get it to stop. Looks like I'm leaning towards the semi metallic pads.