Been awhile since I commented or posted having been in Maui... Back in Colorado, and while my wife drove the Rover a few times, it mostly sat in the garage this year.

I replaced the brakes, full brake job late last year. Like I said, it has mostly sat and did nothing. I was lazy last week and ran through a car wash instead of hand washing. Even in the garage the dust adds up. Pure venting on my part, but the brakes were fine, car wash is only a mile away, but the darn things are warped now. Given they are new I won't drive it until I fix it, I think I'll have them machined given I haven't driven but maybe 50 miles since the warpage started. Again, not complaining, just annoyed.

On a side note it's great to drive the LR3 again instead of my fancy new Ram Limited. I wish it had all the Cameras and technology my Ram has, but despite 160K miles on the LR3 I prefer it over the Ram. The LR3 has character, the Ram is just a fancy pickup truck.

 

...did you go OEM on the pads and rotors?

 

I did.

 

What bedding process did you go through after installation?... this is an important part of brake jobs that people often skip or don't know about that keeps hot spots from forming and causing warpage: copy and paste Having new brake pads and rotors installed happens on a regular basis. Once those brake pads and rotors are mounted, it is essential to properly break them in. Bedding in, commonly known as breaking in, new brake pads and rotors is necessary for new brakes to work properly. The process works to put a layer of material onto the friction surface of the rotor from the brake pad. The transfer layer, as it is known, improves the brakes' performance and extends their lifespan by enhancement of the friction generation of the brakes and rotors.

The Process of Bedding in New Brakes

Once the new brakes or rotors are installed by a licensed mechanic, the next step is to bed in the brakes. This is done by rapid acceleration and then quick deceleration.

It's important to remember safety when attempting to bed in the new brakes. To maintain the safety of anyone on the road, it is best if bedding in is done in an area with little to no traffic. Most people travel a little ways out of their city to bed in new brakes.

Bedding in the brakes is usually done in two rounds. During the first round, the vehicle is driven at a speed of 45 mph, with a medium-to-easy slow to stop, repeated three or four times. The brakes should be allowed to cool for a few minutes, and then the car should be subjected to an aggressive slow-down from 60 mph to 15 mph eight to ten times. The vehicle should be allowed to sit, or driven at a low speed on the empty road, for a few minutes to allow the brakes to cool before using the brakes again.

After doing this, the brake pads should show a distinctive color change from when they were first applied. This change is the transfer layer. Once bedding in has been completed, the brakes should provide the driver with smooth braking.



And another:

How to Prevent Brake Rotor Warping

This entry was posted on January 31, 2019 by cdr.

Brakes are an important part of any vehicle, car or motorcycle, and it is essential to have every component of the brakes in top working order to ensure your safety and that of your passengers. Sometimes, brake rotors can warp, causing a throbbing or pulsing sensation when you apply the car brakes and while coming to a stop.

Brake rotors warp as a result of the rotor becoming distorted; however, rotor warping can also refer to uneven wear patterns on the rotors that produce the same throb or pulse. To prevent rotors from warping, there are certain things to consider.

Install a High-Quality Brake Rotor

If your brake rotors are already warped, you need to replace them with new ones. It is best to use a brake rotor of high-quality metal and weight because these rotors remove heat more effectively than others.

The heavier metal rotor reduces the distortion from warping by stopping heat damage and allows the rotor to operate using cooler temperatures. This also prolongs the life of your brake rotor and reduces the wear and tear on your brake pads.

Install Brake Pads

If your brake rotors have been warped for a long period, you might need to consider installing new brake pads. Over time, the warped rotors cause the brake pads to wear unevenly and quicker. Be sure the new brake pads are appropriate for your vehicle; for example, ceramic pads built for high temperatures are made for racing vehicles that use extreme braking conditions. If you use these on a normal vehicle, you will cause premature wear of the rotor and a poor performance at normal speeds.

Break in the Pads and Rotors

Once you have installed new brake rotors and pads, you must break them in properly. Brake pads clean the rotor and apply the right amount of friction to stop the vehicle. Not breaking in the rotors and pads could reduce the ability of the pad to clean the rotor sufficiently. This can cause uneven wear or warping.

Each vehicle has its own regulations for break-in procedures, although general guidelines are helpful. When you are ready to break in your new rotors and pads, do so in an empty parking lot or vacant street. Always be safe.

Breaking in Brake Pads

• Start driving and continue until you reach 40 miles per hour. Engage a hard brake once you reach 40 mph, but do not come to a complete stop. (A hard brake is where you "slam" on the brakes.)
• Start accelerating again to 50 miles per hour and slam on the brakes again just until the ABS has been engaged (approximately 10 miles per hour). Again, do not come to a complete stop.
• Repeat the above two steps for a total of four times.
• So far, you should not have completely stopped yet. Accelerate to 65 miles per hour, and then take your foot off the gas and coast to 15 miles per hour. Once at 15 miles per hour, brake slowly until you come to a complete stop.
• Park the vehicle and let the car cool off for 20 minutes.

When applying this procedure, there should not be a lot of gaps between the hard stops, meaning you should accelerate quickly. Do not come to a full stop during a hard stop, as this will imprint the pad on the rotor and cause vibration. It is normal to see smoke, smell odours, and hear squeaking sounds during this process.

Once the above process is complete, you need to drive at least 400 miles before the pads are fully embedded into the rotors and giving you optimum performance. Remember, it is important to read the manual for the brake pads and rotors, since the specific break-in procedure may be different; however, if no procedure is provided, use the one above.

Preventing Brake Rotor Warping in the Future

After the break-in procedure, it is important to prevent warping from happening again, or you might be continuously purchasing new rotors and pads before their time.

First, try to avoid driving through puddles of water. Generally, puddles are cool water, and if your brakes are heated (and they do heat quickly), the cool water will cool them off too quickly and could distort the metal.

Anytime the lug nuts on the wheels must be removed, they should be evenly tightened again. Using either the cross pattern or the star pattern, tighten the lugs so there is no uneven clamping between the wheel, rotor, and hub.

You should also clean the brakes and rotors with brake cleaner at least once a month. This will remove particles that could be embedded into the rotor surface and cause warping.

 

I have never followed this procedure or seen it written down, but it's interesting to read about it.

 

I had to learn it after dealing with our RX350... thing would warp rotors no matter if it was dealer stuff, cheap stuff, or upgraded parts warehouse stuff... this break in solved our issues. Every car I had before that was never an issue but may have been because I immediately romped on my vehicles lol. I also do this procedure to seat shoes on the industrial equipment that I deal with.

 

If one were to carry out that procedure preemptive maintenance of the brake lines would be highly recommended. I can personally attest that neglect of the lines and heavy brake use can lead to a bad time. I would also recommend a pre/post inspection of the lines although if something lets go majorly you will certainly feel it in the pedal.

 

Good advice on how to break in the brakes, something I've done for decades. I was forced to drive the Rover today, as my new Ram wouldn't start due to a dead battery... Brakes seemed fine today. Trying to figure out if I have a driveline vibration under braking?

 

Perhaps a caliper is sticking a bit on the guide pins and causing the vibration. Driving it may have freed it up a bit. I check clean and lube the guide pins when I rotate the tires, only adds a couple minutes per wheel but a lot of piece of mind.

 

If the truck sat for a while, and it was cold out, you may simply have tires that are (or were) out of round due to sitting, This is normal and will go away after driving a few miles and building some heat in the rubber.