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front suspension valve lock-rebuild or replace

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  #1  
Old 03-02-2019 | 07:56 AM
ljdiscovery's Avatar
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Default front suspension valve lock-rebuild or replace

I have noticed that our LR3 is starting to drop in the front when parked overnight. It is getting progressively more evident. (As exciting as it is to see the front of the truck raise up, I would rather fix the problem) A new replacement valve block is around $150 from lucky 8. I see rebuild kits, an assortment of o-rings, for about $30.

Is the problem usually just the o-rings that need replacing. Will the rebuild kit do the job. Is it worth buying a new replacement. I have seen bodsy’s YouTube video. Seems pretty straight forward.

Thoughts? Has anyone done the rebuild vs the replacement. Thanks. Phil
 
  #2  
Old 03-02-2019 | 08:12 AM
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I needed a front valve block on the 07 I just went with the replacement so I am of little help. Looking like I’ll be doing a rear one soon as well
 
  #3  
Old 03-02-2019 | 08:57 AM
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Replace it. There has been little success with mixed reports regarding rebuilding. It is not always O rings that need service as housing can develop hairline cracks and leak as well. After all it is plastic and will fail eventually..My two cents..
 
  #4  
Old 03-02-2019 | 11:42 AM
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I rebuilt mine. It was easy, but the rubber/plastic seats had pretty severe divots in them. The seats are tiny discs that look like nylon. I suspect that’s the reason most still have issues or there was another problem in the system to begin with. I wondered about replacing or building up the material.
I still have it (front rebuilt, never reinstalled) and the unused seals for the other two blocks in a box if anyone wants them...I’ll sell for the price of the kit.

I didn’t reinstall as I figured out the real problem.
 

Last edited by Geo; 03-05-2019 at 05:08 PM.
  #5  
Old 03-02-2019 | 01:31 PM
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Rebuilding is less expensive. I rebuilt mine with no issues. The claim that rebuilding is of little success... I dunno, never came across any such evidence but I found many threads were rebuilding went fine. Seems to be something that is repeated because others repeat it with out any actual first-hand experience.
 
  #6  
Old 03-05-2019 | 05:01 PM
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I refreshed my front 20k and my rear 10k miles ago

front was along with a desiccant refresh, and compressor rebuild kit - saw lots of white powdered desiccant in the block(s)

front is now dipping again, so will refresh again - rear stays up fine

my o-rings and bits all appeared good - no tears or divots - refresh consisted of full teardown, clean with silicone, and reassemble - nothing special

if the next refresh fails before 10k, I suppose I will consider new - but 10k more miles for free is hard to beat!
 
  #7  
Old 03-05-2019 | 05:04 PM
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I think the issue with rebuilding is not the process itself, but when it's done. When I did mine I rebuilt the compressor. Then I waited a couple weeks for most of the desiccant powered to get out of the system before rebuilding the blocks. If its done in one go I suspect particles in the lines will propagate into the blocks and cause leaks again. Ideally the lines should all be disconnected and blown out.
 
  #8  
Old 03-05-2019 | 05:41 PM
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makes sense . . . maybe that's why my rear is still holding up

perhaps my next front rebuild will hold even longer
 
  #9  
Old 03-23-2019 | 07:58 AM
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I just replaced my front air valve block with a new one from LR the other day. Did anybody have any issues getting the electrical connector to fully seat / click into a new air valve block? I cannot get the connector to fully connect onto the block. I know connectors on this vehicle can be tight for waterproofing, but not sure if there's a trick to get them to snap together fully.
Thanks!
 

Last edited by robvt; 03-23-2019 at 08:00 AM. Reason: typos
  #10  
Old 03-23-2019 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by robvt
I just replaced my front air valve block with a new one from LR the other day. Did anybody have any issues getting the electrical connector to fully seat / click into a new air valve block? I cannot get the connector to fully connect onto the block. I know connectors on this vehicle can be tight for waterproofing, but not sure if there's a trick to get them to snap together fully.
Thanks!
Spray for electrical connectors helps like QD electronic cleaner and such.
 

Last edited by thorgal; 03-23-2019 at 09:04 AM.
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