OK then D pillar it is. The comment about double wall reinforcement is giving me pause.I am OK with drilling through two layers, I just wonder how far apart they are. There are some thick material NMO mounts that will accept up to 1/2 inch thickness so if I hit a spot like that I could use one of those. ( may have to buy one and have it on hand before the metal starts flying! I don't have great visibility and will definatley measure more than twice before I drill

 

The link below relates to some cargo area lights I installed. I bring it to your attention as you may recognize the plastic cover piece as being at the rear top when you open the upper hatch. You can remove the cover and that will expose some of the underside of the roof so that you can partly inspect with regards to the metal reinforcement.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Boot Cargo Area supplemental LED Lighting

This link following shows two variations of the Sharks fin antenna. The glass roof one is held on with two sided tape and sits partially on the glass and partly on the metal. If you have one, you will see where the cables come out underneath.

If like my 2005 LR3 HSE, there is no Sharks fin, then there will be a plastic plug very close to the rear edge of the glass. Regardless, I think I would leave things as they are there; that is, not use the hole if your 3 does not have a Sharks fin either as I think the hole is just too close to the glass.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Fin on both Glass and Metal Roof parts view/Land Rover Aerial Fin images for both Glass and Metal Roof Disco3 / LR3

My NAV system GPS antenna and I think for all 3's is located in the red plastic high level mounted stop light housing. The housing is glued on - it takes the windscreen guys to remove it and often not too successfully - hence it is suggested to leave well enough alone.

 

I was originally looking for an SE but found this HSE fixer upper (but then, aren't they all?) So there are alot of features I was not planning on. Thanks for the drawings I was wondering where the GPS antenna was. I had no intention of removing the fin antenna. I was going to disconnect it and plug in my cell phone repeater. I was just worried that the antenna could not handle the the 3 watt output power since most 3G/4G cell phones put out about 1/10 th of a watt. I will keep looking into that.

My question still remains why I can't run the wires in the A pillar and make sure they do not conflict with the airbag. I do not know if it is a concern that the wires will get tangled up in the air bag if it deployed or if it is a concern about the RFI accidently setting them off when I transmit.

Thanks for the help and drawings I will update as I learn more.

 

Electricity or Electromagnetic waves travel down the coax due to the skin effect. This could jump into vehicle wire. The result could potentially be a false signal and deployment of airbags at highway speeds. That would suck.

1. I would use the unused grommet under the brake master cylinder, and avoid the wire bundle for a myriad of reasons.
2. You could put snap on ferrite on the coax, near the antenna for sure. If you use mini cable, then about 5 turns of this coax and snap it into the ferrite.
3. A ground strap from the antenna base to body should be used.
4. You should do a direct power run from the battery, size rated for 30amps (HF) / check your radio specifications. The rating should take into consideration the length of cable you will be using.

Here's a crappy photo of the cable turns, ferrite and ground strap. http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/disp...um=26194&pos=0

 

Ubseenone;

I understand about the skin effect on RF coax. After much debating, I will mount the VHF/UHF in the rear on on the metal part of the roof about a foot to the right of the cell phone antenna. Is that an ATAS 120? I don't have a roof rack (yet).

Now the next big question is...... how to get the HF coax and antenna control cable to the front bumper.

And then how to mount a 9 foot tall 13 pound antenna. I have been looking at the tear down of the front bumper and do not want to take it apart more timies than I have to, so a lot of photos/drawings and afew you tube videos are in order before I put wrench to bolt head.

On a side note, I replaced the dryer in the suspension compressor this weekend, so I feel empowered to try something more advanced. The bumper cover may come off more than once.

Again, thanks for the help.

 

Yes, it is an ATAS. I have a HiQ which is an awesome antenna, but can't seem to find anyone who can fabricate a mount for it. You don't need a roof rack to mount it on the rail. You could make up a plate, and slip a heavy duty washer or threaded plate inside the rail, with a plate on top, and mount there. Bear in mind the roof rails are not grounded.

To route the cable into and through the cabin.. near the top right or left corner (I choose left facing the back) to avoid trees, but your antenna is short (though it would not clear my garage).. You can pull the rubber molding off, and you'll find a large gap between the body and the trim. You can carefully route it into this space.

Where the top trim meets the bottom trim, you'll find more gaps, and you can either separate the pieces, and carefully route into that space (where the junk hitch mounts). You can also do what I did, and use a chase wire, that was very easy to stick in, and grab from behind the cover where the hitch mount is. In that space you will also find a body ground point bolt. Anyway, once in that space, you can route and secure it, through that section to where it meets the rear passenger door. From there, you can carefully remove the set of door trims at the floor and I think the middle section between the front and rear doors. Under the top trim, you will find a channel made for wires, there is plenty of room for the cable. Using the same method, continue to your final destination, or route under / between seats, etc.

There is no place to mount a radio really-- so a remote head with a seat bolt connection makes a great install location, here is a photo.. DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - HAM Antenna Install/20140428 095707-s I originally had the radio fastened under the 2nd row seats, but it did not work well. I recently relocated the radio into the rear storage box, right above the rear blower motor. I cut two 1/2" holes and joined them to route all the cables in. I used really strong Velcro on the radio, and mounted it sideways in the box. I hate to admit, the hole was the wifes idea, but it really turned out excellent. I didn't have to route coax to the front then either. Aside from the head, and the power connections you can't tell it's there.

From the front of the vehicle, I would probably use the grommet under the brake booster. You can remove the grommet and cut a hole in it to make space. I did a small X cut, then trimmed as little center as possible to keep it somewhat water proof. Here's a photo of the grommet, the rear area, etc. DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Traxide SC80-LR , plan on cutting your hands up during this operation.

I would suggest trying to locate a point behind the grill, or on the bumper where you can fabricate a mount, and route it between the space of the grill, or between the bumper and the body. Some folks have used this trick on fog lights and it has worked well. Obviously you need something stronger, as well as a bigger platform for that antenna. I checked it out, it's fat, but looks like a decent antenna, although I'm highly suspicious when there is not a single stitch of a claim about the gain, so it's probably low. On their web site, you find their mounting location suggestions PDF...

Crud-- I didn't realize you're in Houston. If you want to come to town, I could help you run / route the wire for antennas and power. We probably don't want to pull the bumper off and not finish the project though. It might take a day or two. If you do, there's a fellow in Houston holding a bumper skin, can you bring it along...

On power, I would suggest Ultraflex 8 or 10/2 marine cable, This is resistant to oil and heat, and USCQ certified. I'm out of it at the moment. It took me a good while to find it.. Otherwise I suggest ordering your zip cord from http://www.powerwerx.com/
Let's go from here.

 

OK lets take this one item at a time.

Power: I had an extra Icom power cord. I extended it with the same size wire from Powerwerx. (10 gauge I think). I have it routed through the firewall with the other wires below and to the outside of the master cylinder, It currently runs to the battery on the right side of the engine compartment. That will change with the addition of the second battery and the Traxide SC80-LR I will get later this year.

Radio location; It is screwed to the floor behind the middle seat of the second row seats. Power is routed out of sight along the door plates and under the carpet. I looked at the storage compartments, but the IC-7000 just did not look comfortable in there, besides I like the storage space.

Radio control head:mounted on the right side of the center console in that small catchall you remove in reach the emergency Park release or E brake release. (if I figure out how to post a picture, I will)

HF Antenna: Yes there are only 3 in the US that I know of. The US distributor is in Dallas. I am pleased with it. I works as good as any other mobile HF antenna I have had and it tunes QUICK. I did look at bringing a 1 inch square tube out through the grill (easiest place to get to, and cheapest to replace when I go to sell it.) I think if I remove the plastic piece on top of the bumper and just below the grill I can gain access to the back of the bumper or even a spot on the front part of the frame.

VHF/UHF antennas; run the coax under the side trim then up the D pillar into the space directly over the tail gate. then an NMO mount to the right of the cell phone antenna. I want a short antenna here to be able to pull into the garage. (I don't run HF mobile 100% of the time, but will park in the driveway when I do)

OK that should be it ...... What did I miss? or forget?

 

The only problem with the middle seat is, if you decide to flatten it for cargo, it does not clear. That's one reason, besides avoiding people kicking it that I decided to move it. That is where i had it to begin with. The radio is mounted sideways, I agree, the cargo space is nice. One other potential place might be under the rear seats near the spare winch maybe. If you're happy with the location, then your good.

 

We're waiting for final install pictures, how did this all come out?

 

Well, I have been given the fullLand Rover owner experience these last few weeks...... It is in the shop waiting on a new rear diff. I have not installed the antenna yet but will be mounting it to the front bumper somehow avoiding the parking sensors. I have the control head mounted and working on VHF/UHF. I found a place on the console between the radio head and that nav screen. I drilled the mounting holes into the trim on the flat horizontal portion so IR I remove it the rubber mat will cover the holes I made.

Here is a picture of the control head. I will update as I install the antenna.