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Hard brake lines replacement

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  #1  
Old 03-15-2019, 06:59 PM
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Default Hard brake lines replacement

Hi all.
i am planning a road trip in two months or so and need to button up read: replace few items, well not just a few as I just placed large order from UK on all control arms, tie rods, links toe stabilizer bars, arb bushings etc, etc..I also plan to replace most of the hard coated metal brake pipes specifically o the back of the truck towards to front as well. Has anybody done it and how pita it is to replace them ? Those two connected to a robber hoses past rear control arms above the diff and coming towards to center and front are looking like a one part like with no joins at all. Should I resort to copper coil and make a few new lines with flared connections ?
 
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Old 03-17-2019, 05:56 PM
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Seriously ?? Nobody replaced hard brake lines on LR3 yet ? Abran, anybody ? 97 views and no input at all ??Cmon guys..
 

Last edited by thorgal; 03-17-2019 at 06:01 PM.
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:13 PM
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It was a pita. Did the copper coated line. I will qualify that with I absolutely hate dealing with hard brake lines. If it needs it again I'm buying a new LR3
 

Last edited by ArmyRover; 03-17-2019 at 07:16 PM.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:29 AM
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I kind of suspected it might be a Royal pain or downright impossible . Did you use Cunifer material ? Does it shape in hand or I will have to use bending tools ?
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 08:19 AM
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:14 AM
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Why do they (ever) need replacing?
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:44 AM
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What we have on LR3s is steel lines. With time exterior corrodes due to salt, dirt and moisture and inside corrodes even more due to brake fluid absorbing moisture and destroying brake lines within.
I am planning a road trip out West in May and don't want to have any major surprises with braking on the highways and backcountry roads. With LR3 being a 14 year old truck with 250 K miles it would make sense for me to change all brake lines and add DOT 5 brake fluid that is synthetic and does not absorb moisture anymore like the DOT3, 4 etc.
I will be replacing al control arms, ARB bushings, sway links, Toe stabilizer bars and inner and outer tie rods among other things. Possibly new alternator as I am still on the original.Adding front and rear Tactical Rovers bumpers as well. All on the driveway. Need to finish before me next surgery in early April, after that I will be basically one handed for a while.
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:30 PM
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Thanks for the explanation! You are 120,000 miles ahead of me, and up here in the Pac NW they rarely use salt and when that happens we can avoid those streets. Good lookin' out though!
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:28 PM
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Houm,
It is not about the miles when it comes to brake lines, but amount of time that old DOT fluid was sitting in our steel lines. Since it is hydrophobic in nature, it absorbs moisture,so wether you drive a lot or not won't matter much. What helps though is frequent fluid change. Steel lines get corroded inside more then they sustain exterior surface damage from road salt, water crossings and so on.
I am kind of leaning towards CooperNickel brake line as ArmyRover did and have piece of mind for the rest of my life or LR3, whichever comes first, then deal with Genuine line replacement. Although LR released a short repair kit for a rear brake lines in 2014 so maybe I will go that route. Supposedly rear parts get corroded the most as they are exposed to elements more then other parts being tucked in and protected by various parts and plates.
 
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:25 PM
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Mine rusted to dust
 


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