Hard brake lines replacement
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 343
Likes: 34
Hard brake lines replacement
Hi all.
i am planning a road trip in two months or so and need to button up read: replace few items, well not just a few as I just placed large order from UK on all control arms, tie rods, links toe stabilizer bars, arb bushings etc, etc..I also plan to replace most of the hard coated metal brake pipes specifically o the back of the truck towards to front as well. Has anybody done it and how pita it is to replace them ? Those two connected to a robber hoses past rear control arms above the diff and coming towards to center and front are looking like a one part like with no joins at all. Should I resort to copper coil and make a few new lines with flared connections ?
i am planning a road trip in two months or so and need to button up read: replace few items, well not just a few as I just placed large order from UK on all control arms, tie rods, links toe stabilizer bars, arb bushings etc, etc..I also plan to replace most of the hard coated metal brake pipes specifically o the back of the truck towards to front as well. Has anybody done it and how pita it is to replace them ? Those two connected to a robber hoses past rear control arms above the diff and coming towards to center and front are looking like a one part like with no joins at all. Should I resort to copper coil and make a few new lines with flared connections ?
It was a pita. Did the copper coated line. I will qualify that with I absolutely hate dealing with hard brake lines. If it needs it again I'm buying a new LR3
Last edited by ArmyRover; Mar 17, 2019 at 07:16 PM.
I used material like this. You will have to play the angles a bit here and there. It's doable. I once again hate brake lines I don't have the patience, for them for some reason.
https://www.ebay.com/i/191763133308?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frov er.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww .ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F191763133308%25253Fchn%252 53Dps%2526itemid%253D191763133308%2526targetid%253 D477790246985%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla% 2526googleloc%253D9011163%2526poi%253D%2526campaig nid%253D1591255870%2526adgroupid%253D62826452791%2 526rlsatarget%253Dpla-477790246985%2526abcId%253D1139306%2526merchantid% 253D8027054%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwg73kBRDVARIsAF-kEH8eP-uBmgsl1eCmvbON9w914VEIDLUrejwsOuOtvltMEr66f5buqSYa AsvoEALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1900314048939%2526rvr_ts%253D90f4 4aed1690aa4842a5bd88ffe6a4a6
Used a bender for the tight bends rest I ham fisted
https://www.ebay.com/i/191763133308?chn=ps&ul_ref=https%253A%252F%252Frov er.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww .ebay.com%25252Fi%25252F191763133308%25253Fchn%252 53Dps%2526itemid%253D191763133308%2526targetid%253 D477790246985%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla% 2526googleloc%253D9011163%2526poi%253D%2526campaig nid%253D1591255870%2526adgroupid%253D62826452791%2 526rlsatarget%253Dpla-477790246985%2526abcId%253D1139306%2526merchantid% 253D8027054%2526gclid%253DCj0KCQjwg73kBRDVARIsAF-kEH8eP-uBmgsl1eCmvbON9w914VEIDLUrejwsOuOtvltMEr66f5buqSYa AsvoEALw_wcB%2526srcrot%253D711-117182-37290-0%2526rvr_id%253D1900314048939%2526rvr_ts%253D90f4 4aed1690aa4842a5bd88ffe6a4a6
Used a bender for the tight bends rest I ham fisted
Last edited by ArmyRover; Mar 18, 2019 at 08:22 AM.
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 343
Likes: 34
What we have on LR3s is steel lines. With time exterior corrodes due to salt, dirt and moisture and inside corrodes even more due to brake fluid absorbing moisture and destroying brake lines within.
I am planning a road trip out West in May and don't want to have any major surprises with braking on the highways and backcountry roads. With LR3 being a 14 year old truck with 250 K miles it would make sense for me to change all brake lines and add DOT 5 brake fluid that is synthetic and does not absorb moisture anymore like the DOT3, 4 etc.
I will be replacing al control arms, ARB bushings, sway links, Toe stabilizer bars and inner and outer tie rods among other things. Possibly new alternator as I am still on the original.Adding front and rear Tactical Rovers bumpers as well. All on the driveway. Need to finish before me next surgery in early April, after that I will be basically one handed for a while.
I am planning a road trip out West in May and don't want to have any major surprises with braking on the highways and backcountry roads. With LR3 being a 14 year old truck with 250 K miles it would make sense for me to change all brake lines and add DOT 5 brake fluid that is synthetic and does not absorb moisture anymore like the DOT3, 4 etc.
I will be replacing al control arms, ARB bushings, sway links, Toe stabilizer bars and inner and outer tie rods among other things. Possibly new alternator as I am still on the original.Adding front and rear Tactical Rovers bumpers as well. All on the driveway. Need to finish before me next surgery in early April, after that I will be basically one handed for a while.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,244
Likes: 482
From: North of Seattle
Thanks for the explanation! You are 120,000 miles ahead of me, and up here in the Pac NW they rarely use salt and when that happens we can avoid those streets. Good lookin' out though!
Thread Starter
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Rock Crawling
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 343
Likes: 34
Houm,
It is not about the miles when it comes to brake lines, but amount of time that old DOT fluid was sitting in our steel lines. Since it is hydrophobic in nature, it absorbs moisture,so wether you drive a lot or not won't matter much. What helps though is frequent fluid change. Steel lines get corroded inside more then they sustain exterior surface damage from road salt, water crossings and so on.
I am kind of leaning towards CooperNickel brake line as ArmyRover did and have piece of mind for the rest of my life or LR3, whichever comes first, then deal with Genuine line replacement. Although LR released a short repair kit for a rear brake lines in 2014 so maybe I will go that route. Supposedly rear parts get corroded the most as they are exposed to elements more then other parts being tucked in and protected by various parts and plates.
It is not about the miles when it comes to brake lines, but amount of time that old DOT fluid was sitting in our steel lines. Since it is hydrophobic in nature, it absorbs moisture,so wether you drive a lot or not won't matter much. What helps though is frequent fluid change. Steel lines get corroded inside more then they sustain exterior surface damage from road salt, water crossings and so on.
I am kind of leaning towards CooperNickel brake line as ArmyRover did and have piece of mind for the rest of my life or LR3, whichever comes first, then deal with Genuine line replacement. Although LR released a short repair kit for a rear brake lines in 2014 so maybe I will go that route. Supposedly rear parts get corroded the most as they are exposed to elements more then other parts being tucked in and protected by various parts and plates.