HDC fault, transmission fault
#1
HDC fault, transmission fault
Hi folks,i got 2006 LR3 4.0, so i've been getting these error codes pretty frequently, on the road most on the times, untill i replaced my brake light switch, now on the road everything is OK, and now usually in the morning when you do the first start of day (btw its about -5 degrees) the error codes come on when you turn the key to accumulator position, so they are already there, when the car warmes up for about 5 mins i restart it and everyhting is ok. I was suspecting the battery but i had it tested about 2 month ago its was showing 804 CCA out of 850, the battery it self is 95 AMP, any ideas what it could be? The light bulbs were replaced and brake light swith.
#2
What was the battery voltage?
....at -5 degrees the LR3 could just be "angry" in the mornings. I know that when I've run it in that cold of weather it would do stuff like that. Could be the battery not up to the task (although it checks okay....what kind is it?) or just normal weird electrical transients. Electrons don't like cold.
....at -5 degrees the LR3 could just be "angry" in the mornings. I know that when I've run it in that cold of weather it would do stuff like that. Could be the battery not up to the task (although it checks okay....what kind is it?) or just normal weird electrical transients. Electrons don't like cold.
#3
So i just making a little update on the situation, so i got mad of these errors and started to check out the brake switch connector, it has four wires green/orange, red, purple green, green purple, so on the red and green orange wire there has to STRICTLY 12v when turn on your ignition, i had 12.6 v on my green orange, and 9 on my red, when it started charging my battery the voltage some times went up on the red to about 12.1v and it was enough to start the car without and hdc fault/trasmission fault., and then i started thinking why the **** do i have 9 voltsl, so i riped off all the triming on the passenger side of the car and the floor and what i found almost gave a F'in heat attack, all the floor was corroded the wire harness was all in water and this water ran down all the way to the backrow of seats. The corrrosion is so bad that there are just chunks of metal falling of just when you touch them. The leak was though the windshield seal on the bottom, my windsheild in not original so it was replaced by the last owner, and they didnt do it properly because they lost the locks that go on that panel and it didnt seal properly, so i just put some silicone all around the seals. So the 9 volts could of been due to the wire being so much years in water and getting corroded, but it's unreal to tack down that exact wire, so the choise was to take 12v from another source, and cut the original wire from brake switch connector.\
There was a spare connector just on top and i just soldered the new wire to it and BAM when starting car no hdc fault and transmission fault.
There was a spare connector just on top and i just soldered the new wire to it and BAM when starting car no hdc fault and transmission fault.
Last edited by artem2208; 04-01-2018 at 09:32 AM.
#4
So i just making a little update on the situation, so i got mad of these errors and started to check out the brake switch connector, it has four wires green/orange, red, purple green, green purple, so on the red and green orange wire there has to STRICTLY 12v when turn on your ignition, i had 12.6 v on my green orange, and 9 on my red, when it started charging my battery the voltage some times went up on the red to about 12.1v and it was enough to start the car without and hdc fault/trasmission fault., and then i started thinking why the **** do i have 9 voltsl, so i riped off all the triming on the passenger side of the car and the floor and what i found almost gave a F'in heat attack, all the floor was corroded the wire harness was all in water and this water ran down all the way to the backrow of seats. The corrrosion is so bad that there are just chunks of metal falling of just when you touch them. The leak was though the windshield seal on the bottom, my windsheild in not original so it was replaced by the last owner, and they didnt do it properly because they lost the locks that go on that panel and it didnt seal properly, so i just put some silicone all around the seals. So the 9 volts could of been due to the wire being so much years in water and getting corroded, but it's unreal to tack down that exact wire, so the choise was to take 12v from another source, and cut the original wire from brake switch connector.\
There was a spare connector just on top and i just soldered the new wire to it and BAM when starting car no hdc fault and transmission fault.
There was a spare connector just on top and i just soldered the new wire to it and BAM when starting car no hdc fault and transmission fault.
#5
I'm guessing you have the same issue I just dealt with. In that passenger side area there are 2 red wires from the front that splice to a single red wire going back with blue electrical tape covering the connection. I believe it was actually separate from the giant bundle of wires running back. One of my wires was corroded through and the other was close. It actually broke when I started trying to fix it. It may not hurt for you to find it and fix the connection in case the wire that still has power gives out. Make sure you check your sunroof drain nipples too. While the water could be from a leaky windshield it is also extremely common for those drain nipples to fail, which mine did. Many people report wet carpet, I did not. However, it was clear there was a leak based on the standing water under the carpet.
#6
The passenger one is behind the fuse panel, but can be seen and assessed from the outside through the intake in the fender. You have to remove the fuse panel to replace it. The drivers can be accessed by removing the panel under the dash. There are youtube videos if you are a visual learner like I am.
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