The windscreen is divided into two separate circuits, more so the main power feeds into the windscreen only each have to be designed to carry 30 amps max, (the fuse rating), rather than one circuit at 60 amps.

Fortunately, the heating element within each circuit is a number of separate heating elements tied together in parallel, not series. That is why you will see individual wires remaining cold rather than a complete half or perhaps all of it cold like a normal heated rear window.

I had about an inch wide strip not working in my previous windscreen but the rest of it continued to heat properly. Naturally the defective strip was in front of the steering wheel.

In other words, the heat wires buried within the glass are not like on the heated back windows of normal vehicles, that is surface mounted and a continuous loop of heat strip where one break in the strip shuts all the heat down. That system is not altogether bad at least when glued to the inside surface of the glass, the heat strip can be repaired whereas within our windscreen, not. There is also an argument that says a rock chip in the windscreen cannot be repaired but I do not agree, and yes, some of the heating wires would be destroyed but at least we still have a windscreen.

Note that the power to both sides is not necessarily full time but controlled by the heating computer PCB located behind the two heater round *****. The windshield heat LED may be on, but that does not mean power is going to the windscreen as the heating computer and the engine computer may have had a conference and decided that due to the vehicle idling, there is a power shortage and hence for emission reasons, rather than increase the engine idle rpm, to instead reduce electrical load and cycle the windscreen rather than the heated seats or the radio amplifier or whatever else might be available.

Yes, it may seem you are just along for the ride and to pay for repairs.

 

Put a new fuse in last night and still blowing it immediately.

My next step is to take another look at what I didn't want to mess with from the beginning. The wiring under the fuse box.

I have pulled the fuse box up before and because there is so little slack in the wire bundles coming out, I was unable to access the underside. Just pull it up enough to look underneath at all the wires.

Is there a way to gain full or better access to the underside of the engine fuse box? Are there any wire bundle disconnects behind there that I cannot see?

 

I do not blame you for not wanting to fool around under the engine fuse box. If the problem is there, it may be however just loosening it and lifting a bit might eliminate the short and then you would know if you really did have to get under it.

I wondered if you had located that grey coloured 4 pin connector I referred to in a previous post?

I ask as if that was disconnected and the fuse still blows, then the short is between the fuse box and the connector and hence worthwhile to figure out how to lift. It is best the battery hot side be disconnected when lifting the engine fuse box.

 

I suspect the fuse is not making good contact with the pin in the box. Every time i use a normal fuse it blows. However, whenever I use a fuse holder and stick longer leads into the fuse contacts it works and does not blow.

I think the pin may be broken on the one side in the fuse box where the charing is. If this is the case, is it easier for me to try to pull this wire out of the box and repair and replace it, or just run a new wire like I had planned on doing before outside of the box.

I was able to find a page on the UK forum that shows the location of the firewall passthrough behind the fuse box. Apparently I can access it after removing the battery, central junction box and unbolting/shifting the battery junction box to the side.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Adaptive Head Lights (AFS) & Corner lights Retrofit

 

I think I would be trying a repair at the fuse box. Passing any conductor thru the firewall is not easy.

You find the best links I might add.

Cyprus where BBS is located, is Right Hand Drive like the UK. As such, I am always wary of where those guys say to look for something.

I doubt LR sells repair bits for the fuse box but it is possible I suppose. This is when you would like there to be local junk yards full of LR3's.

 

I think you are right. I will just try and fix the issue at the fuse if I find one when I pull the box.

I will probably wait a bit before tackling that. I will give you guys an update when I take another look at it.

Thanks for all of the help so far. I really appreciate it!

 

A number of things to mention:

I had a rock chip in the wind shield and had it repaired at a local glass shop, the heat worked fine after the repair.

I noticed that the wind shield must have been the original from 07 as it was very much sand blasted and hard to see through when it was sunny and the road was shaded by trees or mountains, so when I got another chip shortly after the repair I decided to just let it be and replace it when it cracked.

It cracked. Thankfully glass is covered with regular insurance in BC; only a $200 deductible.

New wind shield has strips that don't heat. Installer said it was a grounding issue within the new glass and there was no way to repair it. It is clear as crystal but doesn't fully heat, Ce la vie.

The rear window (in the hatch) was also super scratched up as a result of smearing road grime around while on the highway. My belief is that the previous owner did a lot of fairly heavy towing on the highway (after market brake controller, trailer hitch rusted in and release not functional, no key for trailer hitch lock, glass in poor condition, fairly high km, junk yard air compressor that had to be replaced again at my cost of $1,300). To prevent it from getting worse I pulled the fuse for the rear wiper. I would have just not used it, but after a road trip in the rain I put it in reverse and PRESTO! the damn computer smeared that grime just because the front wiper was on and the trans was shifted to R.... I plan to skin the rear window to cover it up and make my 3 stand out, but I will leave the fuse out for sure.

ALSO good to know: I noticed a rock chip in the big panel of roof glass, LR verified it was laminated glass (pretty obvious otherwise it would have just shattered with a rock hit). So I had that chip repaired as well. Cracks were prevented and I thought it was a good save. Then that big ol panel of roof glass cracked as a result of another, unnoticed, rock chip and now I have to get it replaced. The chip was right on the leading edge of the glass and I believe it was a ricochet off my roof rack that caused it. It doesn't leak, but laminated glass (roof or wind shield) is a structural component and should be fixed as soon as possible. Here in BC where the roads are "sanded" with pea gravel, most people wait for the "sand" to clear up before replacing glass. At least it lasts a few months that way.

Attached photo shows roof glass crack. It has since spread, but all lines have reached the edge and can go no further.

 

I was wondering what the brand name of the heated replacement glass for your windscreen is?

Factory installed has a Land Rover logo, but is made by Pilkington in the UK.

Another brand name that may be OK is Guardian Glass out of the UK.

The replacement I just had installed last month by the independent that the local dealer uses is branded Pilkington, and runs about 500 dollars less than the Land Rover branded glass. My cost, labour included, was about a thousand dollars, (not covered by insurance). The glass is supposed to be the same Optikool and the factory installed and has the Optikool marking as well.

I also installed new A pillar covers, (about $120 each), on both sides and the cowl plastic, (about $140), as well. I just figured old age was getting to them. The 3 looks new with fresh glass and plastic.

I ask as to brand of glass as there is apparently far east glass available that has problems with the heating wires. Apparently where the difference shows is along the left and right vertical edges - with the good glass, the A pillar plastic covers the vertical electrical joining strips; on the far east stuff, one can see gold strips of I guess embedded wire.

Regardless, there is not much one can do about it now, but with regards to the roof glass, one might want to ask some questions. Fortunately I do not know anything about replacing the roof glass other than it is more of a body shop task rather than a glass shop job.

 

The label says

XYG

Xinyi Glass of China.

not sure about being able to see gold strips or wires. I have never looked that closely.

 

The link below is to the Xinyi Glass web site where they mention the internally heated glass; they also talk about their Infrared Reflective coated heat reflecting glass; trade name, SOLAR-X. I wondered if that marking was also on the windscreen glass. If so, that may be a plus.

Pilkington claims that the Optikool is supposed to be heat reflective but if so, it is not much good. It seems none of the European glass has infrared reflecting properties, UV yes, and some tint, but nothing much to keep the IR and hence the heat out.

I gather this is because the sun rarely shines in the EU, (dull and cloudy like a Rembrandt painting most of the time), so solar heat is not a problem. One would think that in the Middle East there should be a requirement however it seems the sun is directly overhead, hence the hot sun really does not come thru the side windows or windscreen as it does in North America.

Xinyi Glass Holdings Ltd.