Heater blower
#2
The blower motor is a simple 2-wire circuit. I would disconnect the blower motor and put a volt meter on the two terminals. Cycle the fan through its speeds and check for voltage. If you do get what looks like a good read, then get an incandescent test light and see if you can get a bright light when working the fan switch. An LED test light will not work, it will give you a false good.
I believe our fan motor speeds are controlled by Pulse Width Modulation where a percentage of on/off to the blower motor drives the speed. If you cannot light an incandescent lamp at the connector, you either have a bad new resistor, a wiring problem, blown fuse, or a bad climate control module in the dashboard.
I believe you already did, but make sure your blower motor is good before going down a deep diagnostic route. You can apply battery voltage directly to the fan motor and it should blow full speed.
I believe our fan motor speeds are controlled by Pulse Width Modulation where a percentage of on/off to the blower motor drives the speed. If you cannot light an incandescent lamp at the connector, you either have a bad new resistor, a wiring problem, blown fuse, or a bad climate control module in the dashboard.
I believe you already did, but make sure your blower motor is good before going down a deep diagnostic route. You can apply battery voltage directly to the fan motor and it should blow full speed.
#3
Our 08 LR3 developed an intermittent AC Blower motor, it just stopped one day, (really not a good thing in the heat of Dubai) but I hit it and it worked again! So then my wife would give a gentle kick now and then but eventually it just stopped. The wiring and connections where all good, turned out to be some poor connection inside the motor, so I picked up a good used one (for a Range Rover Sport, same type) and replaced it. Its easy to fit, just 3 screws and one connector, although it would be advantageous to be double jointed...
#4
#5
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