On the way to work I had the fuse pulled so it was just showing the orange light with suspension fault on but when I would turn or brake the red suspension fault with 30 mph warning would come on then go off! I will recalibrate without the lift rods when I get home but can anyone deduce anything from the fault coming on when turning or braking/letting off gas at speed?

 

Ok one more thing. I can replace all 4 height sensors I found on ebay OEM for a bit over 200. Would it be a good idea to replace all for seeing as its just a bit more than 1? Seeing as it has 15x,xxx miles on it and not sure if they have ever been replaced?

 

I would remove rods and recalibrate before thinking of any further purchases

Then you can use the IIDtool to customize a lift - if you need one - and ditch the rods for good

 

I have already ordered them just incase but if it fixes it I may return. I just cleared codes and on the drive home will see what pops back up.
I will do as y'all have said and pull the rods and recalibrate when tonight.
It really is bothering me that that code for the right rear height sensor that I seen last night disappeared. Is there a way to check on the move when the red light comes on? would that throw the code? or does it have to be a CEL to throw the code. I did not see a CEL last night and I swear the RR height sensor code was on there!

 

Doug is spot-on.

The height sensors are blamed a lot for these types of issues, but the truth is they rarely actually fail....they are just simple/dumb potentiometers.

 

Ok, so as suggested last night I removed the lift rods and reinstalled the factory rod. Re calibrated the LR3 to factory setting. I went into the height settings and in the settings 1 lifted the car to the highest it would go which was 50mm front and 34mm rear I think. I don't think that was the correct way to do it since I really did not get the rear up as far as I would like but needed it to get me to work today and it was dark. Possably someone could assist a bit more on that later.
I digress, so I took it for a test drive and no lights nothing. Parked it and this morning drove to work and nothing. Obviously it could take a bit to re emerge but seems all good.
Now onto fixing the inner fender well. I will need to flatten the seam as others suggested and can I move the rear HVAC lines or??
Side note about possible reasons the calibration messing up, does anyone think that it could be caused by the tires and the way they were balanced The place I use for tires went to the bag balance crap and I really don't care for it due to the fact that when it sits over night then it the morning the first little bit of driving is rough do to the beads balances. Any input on that?
Thanks for all the input.

 

My method is to see the calibration values....take the highest one, subtract from 254 (255 is max so I leave a 1 unit margin) and add that delta to each corner. Then save that as my off-road height setting.

 

Yesterday and today over night the front of the suspension has dropped all the way down without the fuse pulled, just the front. The rear did not self level!
I have the stuff to rebuild the AMK compressor and the valve blocks, I've just been putting it off. Looks like I'm going to tackle it this weekend. Plan on doing the compressor tomorrow then running it for the day then the front valve block Sunday! think that is to much positive thinking?

 

I recommend waiting longer between compressor rebuild (assuming you are replacing desiccant?) and cleaning blocks.

I did my first cleaning too close to replacing desiccant, so I had to re-do the front block (cleaning only again) because the sag came back.

No sag since 2nd front block cleaning (10k miles ago)

 

Ok. I thought it might be to close together and not give the old dusty desiccant time to clear the lines. Yes I will be replacing desiccant so will do.