Where did you get the sensor from? Those codes would tell me that there is a hardware issue.

 

Sensor came from parts geek. I believe the brand is OEM or it was advertised as OEM. It certainly was not an identical copy of the part I replaced. It did solve the problem. The compressor not turning on is a new thing... as always, I’m appreciative of those sharing their knowledge and experience, it’s been very helpful.

 

That 'OEM' brand is a ripoff. This has been discussed before, but they are not oem in the way we all mean oem when discussing parts. It's just their deceptive brand name they slap on whatever third party parts are cheap enough that they decide to re-package and sell.
Is your compressor that the shop installed out of warranty?

 

Lets not confuse the brand called OEM versus what is really OEM. Parts Geek sells "generic" real OEM as "Genuine" based on my recent experience AND in the past. So yes, tracyc is right that the brand called OEM is generally sub-par generics trying to use the "OEM" moniker as a way to sell to uninformed. I dont even think that should be a legal brand name! Park Geek geniuses have a blue logo. Its not a brand. And its often real, true OEM parts that are stripped of brand part numbers, logos, etc. Britpart does the same thing.

When it comes to sensors, they were updated so it may not look exact anything. I think the originals are "6-wire" and replacements are "3-wire", or so they are called (someone correct me). Of course the side of the truck the sensor belongs on also determines the look, but only in color. I think one side has white armatures the other side black? (been a while)

 

Right is black armature, left is white. The sensors themselves are all identical, but because of how they are mounted they are handed (and differentiated by color). The only
functional difference between the front and rear are the length of the links. I have been told there is a way your can macgyvor right/left sensors to work in a pinch, no idea how one would do that.

I believe all LR3 are 3-wire and the 6 wire was used on early L322 Range Rovers.

 

Sorry, meant pins not wires. I guess the originals are 6 pin, new replacements for LR3 are 3 pin. The LR3 only uses 3 wires, the change was from other Rovers taking headlight data from sensors themselves for leveling versus later on taking data from EAS ECU instead. But the sensors were made an available with 6 pins, so they got used anyway originally.

 

Did some digging with the LR3 and GAP today. The situation has deteriorated to riding on the bump stops. Compressor still doesn’t turn on and the dash flashes special programs are off and max speed 30mph warnings.

Pulled all EAS suspension fuses, as far as I can tell they are fine. The blade fuses were all intact and the larger box shaped ones didn’t rattle and look to be ok, not sure how to actually verify those ones.

I still need to follow up with the shop for warranty info on the compressor replacement.

Attached are the latest codes and live values.

 

The large box ones are relays, swap the compressor one with another for testing. There is also a large fuse, the small blade one is for the EAS ECU. So there should be a main larger fuse too that is direct to compressor. Also if compressor is not coming on, you can jumper the relay. Keep in mind if no valve blocks open the system will overpressure and dump the excess, which can sound a little different than normal.

 

I’ll try the swaps next. Morning brain fog is clearing, the F7 is the relay. FL10 (60amp), F26 (20amp), and F3 (5amp) are the suspension fuses.

 

How does one jumper the relay?