help!! all lights are on! HDC, brakes, engine, etc
#11
I vaguely recall having some combination of those symptoms about 7 years ago. It's all fuzzy now, but I think the speedometer was not working and I just followed the cars on the freeway to figure out how fast I was going. The thing I remember most was that the odometer was not moving either, which made me think, "Cool! Less miles on the car!" If I am remembering correctly, the dealer replaced the brake switch. Again, it's all very fuzzy now.
#12
#13
ok here is what happen today.
I started the car tonight and was planning to drive to the shop, and when i start driving it, all the lights are gone except the check engine light, so i thought it must reset itself since i didnt move it for a day.
so i went to the shop and use a scanner to scan it. it is telling me "wheel speed sensor", so i clear the code, and drove about 50kms, and it all light up again, so i park the car for 1 hr, and restart, all lights gone, except the check engine light.
So at this point, am i safe to say that it is the "wheel speed sensor" that is causing these?
and where is the sensor located?
thanks for all help!!
I started the car tonight and was planning to drive to the shop, and when i start driving it, all the lights are gone except the check engine light, so i thought it must reset itself since i didnt move it for a day.
so i went to the shop and use a scanner to scan it. it is telling me "wheel speed sensor", so i clear the code, and drove about 50kms, and it all light up again, so i park the car for 1 hr, and restart, all lights gone, except the check engine light.
So at this point, am i safe to say that it is the "wheel speed sensor" that is causing these?
and where is the sensor located?
thanks for all help!!
#15
#17
There is one at each corner, they were probably talking about the brake wear sensors. To check them visually, see my earlier post. Most common issue(especially with it taking a little driving to set) is that a sensor wire has rubbed through on a wheel.
If no rubbing/harness damage is seen, check the connectors and wiring at the connectors of the LF and RR wheel speed sensors. These are often moved and not properly resecured when the brake pad wear sensors are replaced.
If no rubbing/harness damage is seen, check the connectors and wiring at the connectors of the LF and RR wheel speed sensors. These are often moved and not properly resecured when the brake pad wear sensors are replaced.
Last edited by roverguy7; 12-09-2014 at 06:06 PM.
#18
#19
Lots of things to check.
There are a lot of things that could be going wrong.
Even though the compressor runs, it still may not be functioning properly and causing a code. There are several youtube videos that demonstrate it's removal. Of note: I found it easier to remove the entire mounting frame from the body instead of removing the compressor from it's mount while it was attached. For the upper, hidden bolt, I used a gear wrench instead of a 10mm flex socket extension.
The things that you should start with - if you don't have a code reader - are the brake switch that is in the compartment, replace all of your parking and brake lights with LR brand lights, and get your battery/alternator checked.
A low battery can cause multiple error messages as the computer can't figure out what is causing the low voltage signals coming in from everywhere.
The light bulbs are mischievously wired, so their malfunction may throw transmission or height codes.
The ABS sensors (or perhaps only one) may be out. From what I've read on the forum, they aren't *too* expensive and not too hard to replace, especially if you know how to do brakes.
The people at the LR dealership, if they said that there were only two things to replace, were probably talking about the break wear sensors - there's only one in the front and one in the rear.
Even though the compressor runs, it still may not be functioning properly and causing a code. There are several youtube videos that demonstrate it's removal. Of note: I found it easier to remove the entire mounting frame from the body instead of removing the compressor from it's mount while it was attached. For the upper, hidden bolt, I used a gear wrench instead of a 10mm flex socket extension.
The things that you should start with - if you don't have a code reader - are the brake switch that is in the compartment, replace all of your parking and brake lights with LR brand lights, and get your battery/alternator checked.
A low battery can cause multiple error messages as the computer can't figure out what is causing the low voltage signals coming in from everywhere.
The light bulbs are mischievously wired, so their malfunction may throw transmission or height codes.
The ABS sensors (or perhaps only one) may be out. From what I've read on the forum, they aren't *too* expensive and not too hard to replace, especially if you know how to do brakes.
The people at the LR dealership, if they said that there were only two things to replace, were probably talking about the break wear sensors - there's only one in the front and one in the rear.