The MAF screw holes dont got into the plenum area, so does not matter if they are filled or not. But if you fill them, use an epoxy then drill them to rebuild them so the screws will bite again. Its a poor design. Should have metal inserts with fine thread screws. Like the air filter box, I may modify mine. Either way, unless the o-ring is missing I really doubt the MAF snugness will matter a whole lot.

 

I guess my next step would be to fill in the stripped screw holes with JB weld, teperoraly secure down the MAF sensor with a duck tape, and replace the EGR valve.

 

Or a smoke test. The problem is you may have already fixed it, without being able to reset adaptations the vehicle may be saying there is an error when there is none. Code cleaning is one thing, adaptations is another.

 

Yes, that is the issue, I don't have a gap tool to reset adaptation. I will have to figure out a way.

 

Maybe a dumb question, but if I keep driving for a while (could even be a year or so) will my truck adapt to the new setting and eventually dismiss the error code?

 

It should.

 

Land rovers do sometimes throw a curve ball at you..
I went and got a new EGR valve to install, than this happened...

slight squeaking sound that was coming from around the fan belt/ Alternator now sounds like a rough rusted bearing and the car is throwing all sorts of error messages. instrument gauge light went off, transmission fault message, limited engine performance, Parking brake error.

C1A00 control module
B1A99 Power reset
P0563 system voltage high
P0500 vehicle speed sensor A

Just to name a few...
I need to start investigating into this.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/n78ijlvnuq...62136.mp4?dl=0

 

Update on the issue.
I have replaced with another Denso EGR valve and this one is working great with no misfire like the previous one. I bought the EGR valve from local Oreily's auto.

Odd ratting noise and squeaking sound around the fan belt still needs to be addressed. My truck has been acting very weird throwing all sorts of warning and error messages such as high voltage, transmission fault, engine fault, parking brake fault just to name a few and my guess at the moment is that it has something to do with the alternator. (combination of rattling/squeeking noise from the fan belt area and odd behavior of the vehicle)

I have a new alternator on order. I will update once the Alternator has been replaced with a new one.

 

Another update.

Rattling noise and all sorts of warning light issue indeed turns out to be the alternator. Alternator looked fine from outside, but when I removed it from the vehicle, the pulley was not turning smoothly. I replaced the alternator with a brand new Bosch unit and everything (well.. except the check engine issue) went back to normal.

Now I am back on the bank 1 and 2 running lean issue.
So far I have replaced the
-intake hose
-EGR valve,
-PCV valve
-All 4 O2 sensors
-MAF sensor

And the light is still coming back. same pattern.
When I erase the error code, it will remain off until I shutdown and restart the engine.

I'd like to reset the ECU as Dakota Travler suggested, but unfortunately, since I don't have a GAP tool, I am planning to drive the car for with the check engine light on for another 100-150 miles and see if that changes anything.

 

Have you cleared the codes. This is different than resetting the ECU. Inexpensive code readers can clear the code. With all you have done this may solve your issue.

I've had the same codes and all I did was clear them, remove the MAF and clean it with MAP aerosol spray cleaner and all was good.

You may have luck buying an inexpensive code reader. Most are bluetooth and connect to a smart phone app and then clear the code.

Blue Driver is a popular one. No it will not do alot of Land Rover specific things that GAP tool will do but reading and clearing codes it is good for.