Fortunately, I've been absent from the forum because my 3 has been performing flawlessly after y'all helped to diagnose and resurrect a neglected old girl.
Unfortunately, I am having a suspension issue that just started happen and I was hopeful that the community could once again help offering possible advice
First, I will start with what isn't wrong. The suspension is airtight as it doesn't bleed down even after having sat. When I drive faster than 30 to 35 mph, the red dash light comes on and the system begins dumping the air in the bags. Turning it off and restarting resets it and the system will rise to normal operation. If I do drive over35/40 it only takes a few minutes before the system crashes.

Hoping someone has a word...

Ken

 

When you say it sat and doesn't bleed down, did you pull fuse 26 before you let it sit or was the EAS active and it still did not lower down?
How old is the compressor?
When was the last time you changed the drier descant?
Can you look at the compressor pressure, temp voltage or current draw?

I think the light coming on has more to do with time rather than speed. If the compressor does not build up pressure or keep the reservoir up to pressure it will not be happy.
I got the red dash light once from a leaking front strut because the compressor could not keep up and would over heat.
I also got it when the drier descant restricted the air movement and caused the compressor motor to draw a higher than expected current and the compressor would over heat.

I cannot guess at what the problem is, but if the lines from the valve blocks and struts are air tight, then I would look closer at the compressor and reservoir

Let us know what you find

Jeff.

 

Thanx Jeff for your thoughts...
The compressor was replaced from the faulty original before i got it but I know it could be tired after 10+ years of use. Although I don't get the slow to raise message....
To clarify the leak down statement, it does not lose air while EAS active over extended periods of sitting. It also airs up quickly after red light fault and dumping it's air so I think that would eliminate blocked lines or blocks..? Is there a speed sensor or module that controls air volume?
Thanx again...

 

Do you have a GAP Tool?

This sounds like a cross-articulation fault to me. The 4x4 Info Display might give you a hint as to which height sensor is faulty; the GAP tool would as well. Your mission would be to replace that sensor and then re-calibrate it. You're out about $700 (for the GAP tool and the sensor) and maybe an hour of your time. However....you'll recoup $500 of that $700 over the years you own the GAP tool.

Sheesh....I sounds like a paid advertisement for GAP Diagnostics.

 

Yes you do, but we all do at some point. If there is a better tool at a better price, I think those on this forum would know about it and would be asking; Do you have BRAND X diagnostic tool? (but there isn't and we don't)

As for the Cross Articulation valve being a problem, it only opens up to the struts and does not connect to the supply line directly, seems that could be the issue if the height sensors become unhappy because of an unexpected change in strut height between left and right. If they are holding air while sitting for a long period, and you are getting a red light when moving, it may indeed be a calibration issue caused by a cross articulation valve issue. Before spending any money except on a GAP Tool (see what I did there?), I would recalibrate the suspension and look at all the voltage for each of the height sensors and see what is happening in the live values as you start driving and notice the change between the dash light off and on. I would also still look at the compressor and reservoir pressures as well
I am attaching a diagram of the air ride system to help you out.

Items 7 & 15 are the valves hoam_wa is talking about.




Hope this helps.

Jeff

 

Need codes, it is that simple. Otherwise it it all a guess. It certainly could be a cross articulation issue, keep in mind that the cross-link coil is energized (opened) at low speeds all the time. This is outlines in the tech and learning manuals. Helps keep the ride plush in those mall parking lots. LOL At higher speed it is energized and the computer would not know if it is really open or closed. But when it is suppose to be open, it does monitor current across the coil to look for excess draw - meaning a bad coil. So if there is an articulation fault at speed, it would only be due to cornering and it would be inferred, not a direct fault. Which is even harder to figure out sometimes. So really need proper codes to know for certain.

 

Sorry for the time lapse and thank you for all the helpful posts.
Turns out, at least one of the ride height sensors was binding so I got all 4 corners replaced with Arnott units from RA. After rods were replaced, calibration was attempted but couldn't complete due to a leak on the driver front system.
Providentially, a 2006 HSE just came up for sale in my area with only 100,000 miles for $4300 CAD. Ad says it's got a recently replaced air suspension system and no rust. Wish me well, I'm off to check it out hopefully tomorrow.

Cheers. .

 

That doesn't make a lot of sense to me. You replaced "rods" but not the entire sensor? A leak in the EAS shouldn't cause a calibration to fail.

 

Yeah... I don't get it.

 

Hi, this is my first post on this forum.
I just changed out the compressor on my 05 LR3. It is running all the time, dumps air constantly and then faults to yellow. It does not bleed down and I do not believe there are significant leaks. I just can not understand why the compressor runs. I have Johnson 2.5 inch lift rods on it but will probably go back to the originals.

Am I have the same problem as you?