Greetings,
I have recently purchased a 2008 Land Rover LR3 HSE. I was wondering if anyone has any experience with the Homelink feature that is built into the rear view mirror. When I go to press any of the buttons or try to program any of them nothing happens (i.e. No red light or indications).
I checked the fuse and it is working.
I opened up the black wire cover around the mirror and everything is connected.
I pulled down the overhead console to look and see if anything looked disconnected and everything was intact.
Everything else on the mirror is working.
I am starting to think that the problem is in the mirror itself, possibly the buttons.
Curious if anyone else has had this problem or if anyone can think of something I may have missed.
Thanks!

 

First, you have to teach the code to home link, then program the mirror into the brain of the garage door. Have you done both?

 

I think it should work after you follow the programming instructions. Keep in mind, you most likely will have to put the door controller into programming mode as well as part of the process. I've got mind programmed. I haven't paid much attention to lights on it, as it was done some years ago. I know the light blinks when it's sending a signal. You can also see the light on the door receiver blink, anytime a code is being transmitted, right code or not..

 

Video link to LR3 programming:
Then program the LR3 to your garage computer (manufacturer specific)...

 

Thank you willrok13 and unseenone for your quick replies.
Unfortunately I have tried all of those things. The actual buttons never cause the light to glow. The mirror behaves as though it is not getting power to the homelink portion. I have scoured various forums to see if anyone had a similar problem. I found a wiring schematic and the fuses, but all seems ok. I was hoping I was just doing something simple wrong or maybe the little light on the homelink thingy was just burned out....

 

This is the link to the wiring diagram for the HomeLink mirror that I suspect you already have.

It seems that there are two fuses, five amp F69P, and 10 amp F5P, that provide power for the interior rear view mirror. Ten amp F5P is a feed off the reverse gear relay and inhibits auto dimming when reverse is selected. Five amp F69P provides power to the auto dimming circuits and the garage door opener function if optioned. Note the ground wire, and that it must be grounded for anything to actually work. Usually most electrical problems turn out to be ground problems.

The pdf can be downloaded and printed out. For viewing, right click on the pdf and select the Rotate Clockwise button.

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albu...%20Diagram.pdf

For what it is worth, inside the mirror, there is are two electric eyes, one looking to the front and the second to the rear but that is for the auto dimming circuits and the off off switch sort of runs that and give a green led day and night with the circuit is on.

If I recall correctly, the green LED blinks red when programming in a HomeLink function and solid red when pushing a button to open a garage door.

The odds are the LED is not burned out but there is a wiring or connector problem. I would put a volt meter on each of the two hot wires, the GN and GR and see if there is 12VDC. If there is, do not assume the third wire, the ground wire is grounded.

Also the GN wire only has power to it when the vehicle is in reverse gear and I think the engine has to be running for there to be power to either circuit as well.

My odds are on the ground not being grounded.

 

Also, have you ever experienced a water leak (sunroof drain, AC drain, etc.)? Those are known to cause water to pool in the passenger footwell and electrical gremlins. Could be a place to start if the wiring is not hot, or grounded.

 

Thought I would fire back a quick update to the situation since everyone has been so kind to help. I put a volt meter on the wires.
The GN wire (once car is in reverse) reads 13.9V
The GR wire reads 6.1V
Thanks bbyer for the wiring and info.
I started to trace the wires as far back as i could without tearing down the headliner. I will now prowl around for a loose/poor ground. Further investigation will have to wait a bit due to my real job getting in the way of things...

I did look carefully around to try and detect any water leakage, to see if that might be the culprit. I personally have not had any issues. BUT I do live in the soggy Pacific Northwest so the truck might be storing half its weight in water....

I will keep tinkering...

 

For me, the way I would test this for a ground is with an ohm meter. I would clip one lead to a known good ground, (which can be difficult to find), and then the other cable lead to the ground pin of the feed to the mirror. I would make certain it is the ground pin and not one of the two hots, otherwise I would be replacing a fuse.

Anyway, the meter should show near zero ohms if the existing ground is good. If there is no change, probably a 1 on the ohm meter, then I would check again that that I really am connected to a ground.

I guess whatever you used for a ground when you were measuring voltage should be good.

Actually if you used the ground terminal when you were measuring voltage, the fact you got a reading then suggests the ground is also OK. Myself, I am still betting on a ground problem.

If your 3 is dry inside, you must either park indoors, never drive in the rain or you have the only dry 3 on the wet coast.

I exaggerate, but water leaks either thru the front A pillars or the sun roof are not uncommon. The water usually ends up in either the left or right side door sills but remains unseen as the water remains in the channels under those plastic door sill strips and then evaporates in the glorious sunny dry summer weather the wet coast is so famous for.

The problem is those door sill channels are full of wires running to the rear and hence funny problems can result from wet and corroded conductors.

And yes, ones day job can be a real nuisance at times.

 

No joking there, bbyer. I have replaced all roof drains, windshield cowl, and did the a-pillar repair per the TSB. Still had small amounts of H2O coming in. Ended up taking the studs off the a-pillar entirely, sealed them, and just used the a-pillar repair clips to hold the trim piece on. Seems to have worked. But the carpet seemed to stay damp for several months while I was tracking it down. Who knows what ground issues I may have coming around the bend myself after all that lol