My 2006 LR3 V6 is struggling with suspension faults. I’m wondering how long people think an LR3 should last and when should one give up and move on?

 

The V8 will go for 400k miles if properly maintained. I'm not sure about the V6, there are fewer out there so less data to work with....but depending on the specific issue, a suspension fault may be no big deal.

 

I’ve got 236k miles on mine. Drives great if you do your maintenance.

 

Only limited by how deep your pockets are or how quick the rust takes hold - not a problem in my location.

 

Thanks for the responses. Maybe a better question would be what kinds of problems are likely to strand you and when they typically occur.

 

Not really any problems that leave you stranded if you carry basic tools and a GAP tool.

 

An extra BLS could be good to have with you. Never know when the existing one decides to quit.
If you have a plastic t-piece either have one extra as well or substitute it for one made out of metal.

 

Sorry for the dumb question but not sure what a BLS is. Also are there any good tutorials on the gap tool?

 

Brake Light Switch....that's a good call, I carry one if I'm going on an off-roading or camping trip for sure, as well as other easy-to-fix spares. Around town I'd say you don't need the extra BLS. If you have one fail, you can reboot and clear the fault, then pull the EAS fuse so that the suspension doesn't lower; drive home and then replace the BLS.

Tutorials on the GAP tool? Do you have one???

Buy one, then read the manual; you'll be good to go.

 

With various LR3s, I've had the following problems strand me:
bad oem coils (more than once) leading to sudden misfires and low power mode,
and cooling issues in 2 different LR3s. Note that you have to stop immediately with any cooling issue or your engine will be toast.
and... dead/dying oem fuel injectors. I've had one fail electrically, but running cleaner through your tank and an occasional deep clean via the fuel rail is recommended to keep them running until they fail electrically. When that happens, replace them all. Dont go for cheap ones here. I bought a matched set of reconditioned oem ones and kept my spares. I think that's a decent solution vs exorbitant Land Rover injector pricing.

Battery and charging issues could have stranded me several times if I didn't keep a jump system backup in the vehicle. Get a fresh battery every 2, maybe 3 years, and plan on alternator replacement too. I fully charge my batteries with a charger at least once a month as well. The stock charging system just barely keeps the battery up enough to keep running. Any extra strain and you'll get a no start or the Christmas tree fault effect. Trickle chargers are good too.

I've also had about half a dozen different circumstances when the suspension stupidly lowers itself due to various combinations of faults. As a general rule, you need 2 or more faults before the system freaks out, so don't get complacent with 1 fault because the next one (and there's always a next one lol) will be the one that lowers you to your bump stops - which is ok for short secondary street driving but definitely not for highway driving.

Agree w carrying the GAP tool (if you are inclined mechanically), and a new spare oem brake light switch. Motorcraft ones are good and cheaper than Land Rover. Learn to install it by buying 2, keeping the second as a spare.

Also replace all taillight bulbs with oem and keep a couple spares on hand.

Early preventative replacement in the cooling system including all hoses, radiator, thermostat housing assembly, water pump and bleeder tee is also wise. I've gotten rid of the tee entirely on my current LR3 - there's no need for it if you prefill and massage hoses before and after running the system several times after it's opened up.

There's a longer list of important maintenance that needs doing on these, mostly suspension/driveline related, but the above is what has stranded me in the past.