originally posted by jantiz


01-08-2008, 02:13 PM
Jantiz
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Terrain Response for dummies!!!
I am writting this in response to the many posts I have answered under many threads about simply not understanding the inner works of that cool looking **** on LR3s and all late model Rovers that controls the Terrain Response. Not understanding the way it works and what it does to you systems will most certainly cause you to not take advantage of the full capabilities of your vehicle at best and will get you stuck when you shouldnt have been at worse. I will attempt to keep this as simple and as short as possible - you should know by now that I like to write - and if any of you experts out there would like to add to it or clarify any of it, please do as this is only intended to help out other fellow late model owners better understand the capabilities of their Rovers.

First thing is first. If you are reading this post and have not yet changed the factory H/P GY tires on your LR3, do so. They are equally usless in all surfaces alike, but really show their uslessness off road. Nitto terra Grapplers, Silent Armors and Zeon LTZ's seem to get the most votes these days for good All Terrain tires.

Now, that said, I intend to discuss TR as well asDSC since they are usually used in conjunction when off road. DSC *and this is very important to know* works in conjunction with ETC (Electronic Traction Control)by looking for wheel spin, applying the ABS to that particular wheel and allowing the usable torque to continue to the tires with better ground contact and traction. It will alsokill the engineso it feels like the engine is dying out on you if the spin is severe and you are trying to power out of the situation. You either have an LR3 with Heavy Duty Package or you dont. If you do, you have electronic lockers at your rear differential on top of the Center locker that we all have. That means that when it is activated, you have the exact same torque being sent to both rear tires. There are situations where it is beneficial to allow for some wheel spin such as in deep sand, snow and/or mud. In those cases, turning off the DSC can be very beneficial. HOWEVER, to take full advantage of turning off the DSC you should have rear lockers, otherwise, the LR3 will tend to continue sending power to the wheels spining and will be very slow at redistributing that power to the tires with better traction. Especialy in situations that require considerable ammount of articulation (how far your wheels extend away or into the tire well). If you do not have rear lockers in your LR3 and you turn off the DSC you are ALMOST turning off the Electronic Traction Control as well. So keep this is mind when deciding if doing so would be beneficial or just plain counter productive. Also, in order for the ETC to work correctly, when you experience loss of traction, you should train yourself to be steady and reasonable on the gas pedal. Too much gas will cause the DCS to kill your engine power anyway. All those moves you see in Hollywood about trucks powering up a steep incline with dirt flying everywhere (roostertailing) behind the truck will not work on the LR3. Slow and steady on the gas will allow the ETC to do it's job and you will find yourself back on traction and moving forwardsoon enough.


The first setting on the TR is Normal Mode or "Special Programs off". Only thing of importance to remember here is that your LR3 is still in full time 4x4 with an even 50-50 split of power (front to back) when this is selected.

Second setting is Grass-Gravel-Snow. It is probably the most misunderstood setting of them all. Because it has the word snow, most people assume that it is the best setting to use in the snow and this is simply a mistake. It is intended to be used on hard packed surfaces that can be expected to be very slipery such as an ice covered road (not trail), the interstate during a rain storm, wet grass, and so on. It will cause your transmission to start out in 2nd gear (3rd gear when in low range). Will remove some sensitivity from the gas pedal andwill become very agressive at looking for and controling wheel spin. It will alsoremove some articulation inan effort to maintain better control.Never, ever use this setting during off roading. It is conter-productive to do so.

Next is mud-ruts. This setting allows the transmission to start in first gear even when using low range, thus allowing more torque to make it where it is needed. It will increase articulation and be a little more forgiving of wheel spin. Use caution if off roading in low range in this setting as it is a very strange feeling to be in first gear/low range until you get used to it. Better suited for mud, ruts, pot holes, gravel covered trails, snow covered trails, great setting for most off road situations with the exception of the next two.

Sand mode. Use it for what it is intended. It is the best setting for the deep, sugar sand like a trip to the beach. Dog-gone californians will not let me take my LR3 to any of the thousands of miles worth of coast hereexcept for Pismo Beach [:@]. It will cause your transmission to "hang on" to the lower gears longer before allowing for an up shift. That translates into more torque, something essensial in deep sand to keep the tires moving. It will also desensitise the DSC even further to allow for some wheel spin, all inan effort to make sure you keep forward momentum.

Finnaly is rock crawl. It will greatly remove control from the gas pedal, will allow for the greatest amount of articulation and will force the vehicle into Low Range. Use mainly for what its name implies.

To sumarize, buy good all terrain tires. Demand heavy duty package if you intend to off road at all. Use controled, steady gas when you loose traction to allow the ETC to do its job. Heavy on the gas is counter productive with very few exceptions such as when in mud and trying tospin the mud clear from your treads or when in sugar sand when high rpms are desired.

Hope this helps someone!