HVAC Blower Motor Replacement = Blender Door Servo Motor Issue?
#1
HVAC Blower Motor Replacement = Blender Door Servo Motor Issue?
Hello everyone! I hope y'all are enjoying the last week of December.
I recently replaced the HVAC blower motor in my LR3 as the bearing in the unit went bad. The part was relatively cheap, and installation was straightforward. I was driving earlier today, and noticed that no hot air was coming out of the driver-side vents.
I've looked around on the forum for people who have had similar issues, and it seems like the blender door/servo motor is the culprit. I plan on trying the HVAC system reset tomorrow. However, I am a bit concerned that the work completed with regards to the blower motor could have affected this. Does anyone have any input into whether replacing the blower motor unit could negatively affect the blender doors and/or servo motors?
I am currently getting ready for a move that requires me to take the LR3 across the country, around 1500 miles, and am hoping to get this figured out before I leave, or else it'll be a cold trip
I look forward to y'all's input! Thanks in advance.
I recently replaced the HVAC blower motor in my LR3 as the bearing in the unit went bad. The part was relatively cheap, and installation was straightforward. I was driving earlier today, and noticed that no hot air was coming out of the driver-side vents.
I've looked around on the forum for people who have had similar issues, and it seems like the blender door/servo motor is the culprit. I plan on trying the HVAC system reset tomorrow. However, I am a bit concerned that the work completed with regards to the blower motor could have affected this. Does anyone have any input into whether replacing the blower motor unit could negatively affect the blender doors and/or servo motors?
I am currently getting ready for a move that requires me to take the LR3 across the country, around 1500 miles, and am hoping to get this figured out before I leave, or else it'll be a cold trip
I look forward to y'all's input! Thanks in advance.
#2
Most likely unrelated
The blower motor is on the opposite side of the HVAC "box" from the drivers side blend motor.
Remove the lower panel on the drivers side and look up the left side of the box for a small Denso motor with 3 screws holding it on. that is the drivers blend air door motor. other than needing to stand on your head, you should be able to do this with only a moderate level of difficulty.
Prices range for $60 TO $160 dollars depending on the brand and the retail source.
I am sure there will be someone along with a proper set of directions and maybe even pictures
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I might be wrong.
Remove the lower panel on the drivers side and look up the left side of the box for a small Denso motor with 3 screws holding it on. that is the drivers blend air door motor. other than needing to stand on your head, you should be able to do this with only a moderate level of difficulty.
Prices range for $60 TO $160 dollars depending on the brand and the retail source.
I am sure there will be someone along with a proper set of directions and maybe even pictures
Hope this helps
Jeff
General Disclaimer: I might be wrong.
#4
#5
Hey Doug,
I've been noticing that heat is coming out of the vents, but is not as 'strong' as the passenger side. Could definitely be a heater-core issue. Did you ever use a stop-leak for the coolant system your LR3?
How does the citric acid flush work? Is it just one of the fluids used while flushing the system?
Thanks.
I've been noticing that heat is coming out of the vents, but is not as 'strong' as the passenger side. Could definitely be a heater-core issue. Did you ever use a stop-leak for the coolant system your LR3?
How does the citric acid flush work? Is it just one of the fluids used while flushing the system?
Thanks.
#6
No I have never used a stop-leak as I don't have any leaks - and would likely do anything possible to avoid their use
I don't like the idea in general of adding anything in that isn't "supposed" to be there - for tires, transmissions, engines, coolant, whatever
If you have a physical leak, fix that properly first
As for the citric flush - I haven't performed it yet, so haven't nailed down the specifics but it is generally:
- drain system, flush with clean water
- cycle a citric acid solution through the core input/output for some time - reverse direction and repeat
- flush again with clean water - never high pressure
- drain/fill with distilled water and orange (or pink) coolant - premix if you prefer - NEVER green unless you know what you're doing
- bleed system VERY carefully and completely (preferably with a power bleeder) as these trap air easily
these steps may be clarified or altered by someone who has more experience
you can look up procedures online also
I don't like the idea in general of adding anything in that isn't "supposed" to be there - for tires, transmissions, engines, coolant, whatever
If you have a physical leak, fix that properly first
As for the citric flush - I haven't performed it yet, so haven't nailed down the specifics but it is generally:
- drain system, flush with clean water
- cycle a citric acid solution through the core input/output for some time - reverse direction and repeat
- flush again with clean water - never high pressure
- drain/fill with distilled water and orange (or pink) coolant - premix if you prefer - NEVER green unless you know what you're doing
- bleed system VERY carefully and completely (preferably with a power bleeder) as these trap air easily
these steps may be clarified or altered by someone who has more experience
you can look up procedures online also
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