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The yellow suspension light has come on often. I bought this car in Nevada and I drove it to Alaska this July. Yellow suspension light has come on twice during the trip. The first time being in 68ｰ in southern Washington. When I got back to Anchorage I had a mechanic that works on land rovers look at the codes. He was not specific and I did not know that there are particular codes as in more than one for the suspension components. It is only been yellow and has never been a red symbol.
it is come on a few times during the late summer in Alaska but in Alaska this summer can be as cold as 45ｰ.
I知 not sure if it was a code issue or not but this morning I turned the car on ( 9ｰ F) and it immediately have the yellow suspension light on and would not reset the matter how many times I restarted the car. It normally would go away whenever I restart the vehicle. I drove it to school and parked it in the sun, and it warmed up to about 22ｰ. It worked fine for the rest of the day except for on the highway and turned on twice and I pulled over and restart the car. Each time it would reset.
I do not know when the compressor was changed last. I do not know if the compressor is a separate part from the condenser, it just snowed in Anchorage so I知 not sure if it could be a moisture problem and the pneumatic lines need to be purged. I also don稚 know when the battery was changed last because I saw something in the farms about weak batteries an old fuses can cause poor power distribution to the compressor parts.
The car is a very good maintenance history on the Carfax, but I don稚 remember if I saw condenser or compressor on it. It is only had one previous owner and it was in very good shape. It has 152,000 miles on it. Any hints?
I am an electrician in pneumatic specialist for Boeing aircraft, and I work on BMWs for several years. Landover maybe different but I知 willing to learn, because it is a beast and I love driving it in Alaska.
At that milage, I would say the compressor may be due. But at the very least, the dryer desiccant needs replacement. With that said, you need the codes to really know what the issue is or you are just shooting in the dark. You have several options to get codes yourself. I went the software route which included a wireless dongle for less than $200 shipped. Other options are more mobile and may provide more abilities. But the RSWSolutions software works wonders for me.
At that milage, I would say the compressor may be due. But at the very least, the dryer desiccant needs replacement. With that said, you need the codes to really know what the issue is or you are just shooting in the dark. You have several options to get codes yourself. I went the software route which included a wireless dongle for less than $200 shipped. Other options are more mobile and may provide more abilities. But the RSWSolutions software works wonders for me.
so im going to replace the battery anyways because batteries require replacement a lot in Alaska, and the car did not start the other day. I don稚 know how old the battery is either.
Where can I get the dry air deisiccant? And are there any DIY articles or videos you can link me to?
I am not sure what compressor you have. You *might* be able to pull the dryer without removing the compressor itself. I can not say for sure. If you do plan to remove the compressor, pick up some u-nuts. I guarantee they will be rusted out. Attached a pic for an example. They are first cheap, I bought a whole box when I did my compressor.
Link to a basic video on replacing the stuff inside.
You can buy the actual material on eBay. But the kits are nice. The plastic end caps tend to break on the original Hitachi units. The kit comes with a metal cap and all new bits to rebuild the drier. Other kits include most additional parts for a full rebuild. https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-...T/162546681675
Also attached it an AMK info sheet, but it helps ID the compressor make you have installed.
But again, before you do anything get the codes. You could find the compressor is on its way out and either needs a total rebuild or replacement. A new unit will come with a nice new dryer.
also, I will try and get the codes read after replacing th shatters tomorrow.
Are there various codes that differentiate the components? Or are they more like troubleshooting guidelines?
Also, I have heard about cracks in pneumatic lines that may render the compressor to overwork itself. How do I know that that is not an issue? I don稚 hear the compressor going except after turning the car on. Sometimes it runs randomly when the vehicle is stationary, but it is not often. Your thoughts?
Likely i I will replace the the compressor if needed. I致e seen that they aren稚 that expensive or difficult to change. It just costs a lot of you have a shop do it, like anything. I have done extensive jobs on my bmw 3 series prior to this, and I work on airplanes. So I知 certainly up to the task.
The codes can actually be pretty helpful and direct. Such as one for the compressor drawing too much current. Or the air tank reservoir not holding pressure. Even codes for the system not pressurizing quickly as it should. Like anything, you have to interpret the codes as you see fit. Multiple codes can be helpful in narrowing things down. So its actually a fairly robust check system in place with sensors, etc.
I have not heard of lines themselves cracking. Just the dryer cap. The lines are very durable from what I have seen. But anything can happen, its a Rover after all.
Technically your compressor should not come on when you start the vehicle. That means it needs to fill the air reservoir tank as it has found the pressure to be low. It could be low due to a leak OR that air had to be dumped into the bags (bag or valve block leak). The tank itself can also rust/leak. The system functions much like a shop compressor. The compressors job is singular, to keep tank pressure near a set value. Then the air ride system simply uses the supplied air from the tank to function. So in a way, think of it as two systems. There are two valve blocks, one in the front and one in the back. They regulate the air into the bags as well as cross-link the two sides when needed so they act more like a solid axel setup when off-roading. There is a third block near the compressor that proportions the front and rear. I think it is actually called the proportioning block.
If you do replace the compressor, its not terribly hard. I have a 750iL, so if you can handle a BMW this will be no issue.
I have attached a PDF that may be of great help to you.
but I was figuring that the compressor running in start up was normal. This is because every time I shut off the vehicle, 5 mins or so later, I hear it release a bunch of air, and then the car lowers slightly (from what I can tell, to a leveled position). Is this not normal either?
on cold start up (ambient temp below 20ｰ) I hear this cyclical sound really trying hard to spin or something like that from the front of the grill near the fan. I also hear something in front of the glove box winding, and then it stops and I get the yellow EAS light. You seem to know a lot, so I am wondering if these are telling?
The system self-adjusts for a while when the car is off. 2 hours maybe? I forget exactly how long. The compressor itself will never come on when the engine is off. It may also adjust when woken up (unlocked, door opened, etc). But its adjusting into the proper height windows, so when you start it the next day - if there are no leaks - it should still be in those height windows and not require much, if any, air to adjust. When my valve blocks leaked, that was another story. My compressor ran often and always at startup. Never got to the point that I had an error code. Since I rebuilt my compressor and dryer along with the front airlock, my compressor never seems to come on. Only when I adjust heights using the switch.
I am not sure on the sounds honestly. My does nothing of the sort. A recording would help.
Side note - if you replace your compressor with a different brand you WILL need a software update.
thanks for the Pdf again! I read through it pretty well, and the EAS is extremely synonymous with the pneumatic system on the air planes I work on! Usually it is the valve that leak!
i did something smart. I saw someone mention something on a thread, so I tried it. It seems as if it has worked.
overnight in Anchorage can have a temperature range from 25 ｰ to 5 ｰ. This changed the expansion coefficient dramatically through thermal vibrations of the air molecules. I read somewhere that the auto-load leveling system will not work if you disconnect the battery. I parked on a level surface, and I disconnected the battery overnight. It measured the heights of all four wheel before bed and when I got home from school the next day. The front axle had decreased by almost two inches on both sides! The read decreased less than half an inch. So I believe from this logic that the front valve block may be leaking! What do you think? I知 going to try and spray soapy water on it and such.
P.S. I did this method because I haven稚 had time to go to the mechanic. I知 an extremely busy college student with a lot of extra curriculars.
Instead of the battery, you can just pull fuse 26 (at least I think its 26).
It could be the valve block or anything else really, but I would start there. Keep in mind, if the dryer is tossing out debris you will want to address that first otherwise replacement/service of the valve block would futile. I recommend the dryer gets serviced then wait a couple weeks to "purge" the debris in the lines. Then service or replace the valve block.
11-01-2018, 11:38 PM
Intermittent yellow suspension light
