Intermittent yellow suspension light
#11
#12
You can get a kit like this. I think Lucky8 also sells a kit but a search on their site only gave me complete units.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-...T/151455628153
I am going to emphases, you still need codes. A leaking valve block on its own will generally not cause a fault. Thats because once you start the vehicle, the air reservoir will simply be used to raise the front. And as the tank pressure drops, the compressor will kick in. Under a working system, there would be no fault. The only issue will be excess stress on the compressor. But you are getting errors. So like I mentioned before, the compressor *might* be on the way out, pulling too much current. If that is the case, you may need to replace it and it will come with a new dryer.
So rebuilding/replacing the valve block and dryer may not technically solve your issues. It may stop the front end drop, but thats all.
FYI, this is the valve block kit. Does front, rear and center blocks. I only did my front so far.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Range-...l/291913137176
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAND-ROVER-...T/151455628153
I am going to emphases, you still need codes. A leaking valve block on its own will generally not cause a fault. Thats because once you start the vehicle, the air reservoir will simply be used to raise the front. And as the tank pressure drops, the compressor will kick in. Under a working system, there would be no fault. The only issue will be excess stress on the compressor. But you are getting errors. So like I mentioned before, the compressor *might* be on the way out, pulling too much current. If that is the case, you may need to replace it and it will come with a new dryer.
So rebuilding/replacing the valve block and dryer may not technically solve your issues. It may stop the front end drop, but thats all.
FYI, this is the valve block kit. Does front, rear and center blocks. I only did my front so far.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Land-Range-...l/291913137176
#13
#14
It is up to you. Rebuilding is cheaper and not very difficult. Its critical you hook up the lines properly no matter the method. If you have access to 6mm push connects, you may want to just cut the lines and reconnect that way. The threaded fittings can be a bear to remove.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
#16
Reply
It is up to you. Rebuilding is cheaper and not very difficult. Its critical you hook up the lines properly no matter the method. If you have access to 6mm push connects, you may want to just cut the lines and reconnect that way. The threaded fittings can be a bear to remove.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
hi again, thanks for your help earlier. The school semester is over, but I haven’t had a chance to work on this yet. However, it just snowed about 15 inches in two days in Anchorage, and I backed into a ditch up in a mountain trail. One tow truck’s winch cable snapped trying to pull my rover out. It sat for two days in 5-10° weather (but I the majority of its life is from Cali where I bought it), and we finally rescued it from the ditch with two separate tow trucks and a combination of dual winch methods. Now the rover has the following problems:
HDC fault system unavailable
transmission fault detected, traction reduced
parking brake communication error
adaptive headlights symbol
Abs symbol
traction control off symbol
low tire symbol
check engine light: c0037
air suspension fault, ride height disabled
and an Xmas tree of lights on the dash
the rover had the two driver’s side wheels tear into the soil of the ditch trying to get free. The vehicle was high centered and leaning at a sharp angle off into the ditch. It melted snow, and the water surrounded the wheels and frozen over two days. The wheels were frozen and would not move after they were freed from the ditch. We had to pick out the ice. The check engine light code c0037 is for left rear wheel speed sensor (which makes sense because it was underwater). I have reason to believe that it might have also damaged the tpm inside the tire. I majority of the car was not under water though.
I was looking up the code earlier and I found a video about a guy (who sounded competent) stating how incorrect power output can cause a mass of lights to come on the dash. I checked the voltage of the battery: 12.78 engine off, 14.09 engine idle. I think the battery is ok, and I just replaced it two months ago. Do you think the alternator didn’t like the 5° and is starting to break down? Or would there be more obvious signs? It still cranks up and starts like a beast. The 4wd worked flawlessly in the blizzard we just had, even tho the ride height is disabled and at its lowest setting. Any thoughts? (I am an electrician, so if you have another pdf for electronic communication - that would be great). I just replaced a ton of fuses that had carbon build up, but that didn’t do anything.
#17
It is up to you. Rebuilding is cheaper and not very difficult. Its critical you hook up the lines properly no matter the method. If you have access to 6mm push connects, you may want to just cut the lines and reconnect that way. The threaded fittings can be a bear to remove.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ssembly-75141/
#18
Don't try to replace just O rings on front Valve block. Replace the entire unit. At this milage it could be combination of both, compressor dryer desiccant contamination in valve air chambers and cracked valve body itself. O ring replacement does not usually works and in my opinion in not worth it. Buy front valve of Amazon or British Pacific and install it. With LR3, some parts are worth rebuilding, if you have time and warm garage, but in most of the cases, it pays to buy Genuine parts and go with it. I have not come across any aftermarket part that works well on LR3. For some reason this car loves Genuine replacement components and that philosophy served me well for the last 13 years of owning 2005 model.245 000 miles and counting ..also Lucky8 guys are incorrect , compressor dryer is still available on Amazon, original Hitachi, not cheap though 167 bucks or so. Cheers
Last edited by thorgal; 12-17-2018 at 02:12 PM.
#19
Don't try to replace just O rings on front Valve block. Replace the entire unit. At this milage it could be combination of both, compressor dryer desiccant contamination in valve air chambers and cracked valve body itself. O ring replacement does not usually works and in my opinion in not worth it. Buy front valve of Amazon or British Pacific and install it. With LR3, some parts are worth rebuilding, if you have time and warm garage, but in most of the cases, it pays to buy Genuine parts and go with it. I have not come across any aftermarket part that works well on LR3. For some reason this car loves Genuine replacement components and that philosophy served me well for the last 13 years of owning 2005 model.245 000 miles and counting ..also Lucky8 guys are incorrect , compressor dryer is still available on Amazon, original Hitachi, not cheap though 167 bucks or so. Cheers
#20
Don't try to replace just O rings on front Valve block. Replace the entire unit. At this milage it could be combination of both, compressor dryer desiccant contamination in valve air chambers and cracked valve body itself. O ring replacement does not usually works and in my opinion in not worth it. Buy front valve of Amazon or British Pacific and install it. With LR3, some parts are worth rebuilding, if you have time and warm garage, but in most of the cases, it pays to buy Genuine parts and go with it. I have not come across any aftermarket part that works well on LR3. For some reason this car loves Genuine replacement components and that philosophy served me well for the last 13 years of owning 2005 model.245 000 miles and counting ..also Lucky8 guys are incorrect , compressor dryer is still available on Amazon, original Hitachi, not cheap though 167 bucks or so. Cheers