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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 11:11 AM
  #1  
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Default key fob battery

OK got it open the tabs are soldered to the battery, ul2330

Can I unsolder the tabs from battery and use a regular cr2330?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 12:05 PM
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I don't think CR2330 batteries are rechargeable, are they? Aren't they just standard lithium batteries?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 12:30 PM
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This is rechargeable? How?

Either way tested good, resoldered to the board and now it works
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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The original battery is a lithium rechargeable. It is charged by the truck while in the ignition somehow.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 01:27 PM
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OK well either way it works now, guessing these are a problem like the flip out VW ones?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 01:34 PM
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Hmm, the flip out key fob for my Audi is the one electrical thing on the car that HASN'T failed. But yes, the LR key fobs are rechargeable. They charge via an electric field generated around the ignition cylinder, so that whenever the key is in the ignition, it is close enough to charge inductively. Side note: apparently, you can tape your two keys together on a long drive to charge both at the same time.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 02:40 PM
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Do I have to go to rover for a spare key?
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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Yep, and they will order the laser cut key and fob for you. Mine took a week or so and cost just under $300 programmed...as I recall.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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If you have an IID tool, you can now program your own key (should save about $75). Also, I think most places that can laser cut keys should be able to cut the key for your LR3. I don't know if any of the fobs off ebay would work or not... I know a lot of people have had bad luck with them in the past, but I think that one of the problems is that once a key is "programmed" for a certain car, it cannot be reprogrammed for another LR3 (I pretty sure this statement is correct). If you find a brand new, never programmed one (with the immobilizer chip), it might work...
 
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Old Sep 18, 2014 | 09:02 PM
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Good to know
 
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