Land Rover lr3 Runs 12 minutes cut off please help
Changed cam sensors, crank sensors, new plugs and coils, new fuel pump, mechanic says fuel pressure is good
We are lost here this car will crank up run for exactly 12 minutes and shut off, lost here the car needs a neutral safety switch but that doesn't have anything to do with it immediately shutting off 12 minutes of running idol or driving
We are lost here this car will crank up run for exactly 12 minutes and shut off, lost here the car needs a neutral safety switch but that doesn't have anything to do with it immediately shutting off 12 minutes of running idol or driving
Yes a bunch of false codes that I fixed all misfires, cam sensors crank sensor, lean bank, park neutral safety switch is the only one I didn't fix and it is still doing the same thing. Mechanic thinks it's a modular issue but not for sure yet still trouble shooting. I'm tired of throwing unneeded new parts on.
Really no such thing as false codes, if they come back they are there for a reason. Did you pull the main engine computer located in the engine bay behind the battery? People, for some reason, never hook up the battery vent tube located in the same area. Result can be massive corrosion of connectors in that area. I saw one LR3 with the actual plastic connectors deteriorated badly.
No I will check, Yea for some reason it seems it gets a certain temperature or something weird runs exactly 10-12 minutes and shut off no warning flutters stuttering just instantly cuts off, cranks back up but shuts off sooner that's when idle but when driving it shuts off and don't crank back up instantly it has has to sit 7- 10 minutes before it will start back up
Weird
Weird
Main computer is good. Fuel system check is good, fuses good, car runs 10 minutes and just continues to shut off, have no idea what is wrong with my truck, mechanic says no codes are showing but just before it cut off the crank sensor reading is declining so they are going to check that .
Crank sensor is easy to replace, worth a shot. I was thinking of things that may somehow be an issue and not throw codes. The transmission and engine both hav a capacitor. On the engine, rear top left (passenger) side. Black smaller item with I think three wires to it. Transmission is similar device, not sure where. I do know the transmission one can cause no-starts when it fails and simply disconnecting it will let things work fine. Not sure about engine one. Google can help with pics of either. But something to look at maybe.
It's been raining today so I started the truck it actually ran in idol 20 minutes this time. I tried to start back up and it didn't but I noticed the rpm was at 0 when trying to start no power. Is there a bad ground somewhere or bad relay


