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Let’s talk locking rear differentials…

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  #11  
Old 04-28-2022, 11:01 AM
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That's a sad story....
 
  #12  
Old 04-29-2022, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DakotaTravler
There is nothing in the coding for the rear diff that will cause a hard fault, you have multiple issues.

As for the actuator, its not the worst thing to remove and service/replace. Just make sure you clean under there very well before proceeding. Story time: I replaced mine a year or so ago. I had a clank, thought it was the upper arms at one point. Guess it was not because I started to get codes for actuator being stuck/position not learnt. Replaced it with an aftermarket. If I recall, the stuck code was gone but I was plagued with position not learnt for a while until one day it just never came back and it was fine every since this past weekend. I went off-road and did some interesting stuff. Now I am getting a stuck code only, again... I already had a replacement actuator for the company that sold the last since it seemed defective. If this replacement causes faults, I will get an OEM unit from the UK for $300 but I am also strongly suspecting the module itself and may try a used one first. But I never had any hard faults, just the passive "traction reduced" message and again now since this weekend. I suggest you get us a full list of codes.

I have a thread on my replacement process:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...ection-101515/

edit: Oh.... I also plan to very much inspect all the wiring. Given the behavior I had with the current replacement after install, I can not rule out bad wiring. Already had bad wiring take out my fuel pump power.
I very well could have other issue but I'm not sure what. I'm including below the full list of codes that I had during this whole freak out episode. I'd love it if you scanned through them and let me know if you noticed anything that stands out. I noticed off the bat the amount of control module codes. Not sure what that implies but seemed a bit ridiculous.

I will also comment on your follow up story. I went as far as a hard reset with the battery leads to see if that would help clear the codes since my obd2 wouldn't get rid of them and nothing. The ONLY thing that would help was smacking it with a hammer. Instant fix. I purposely left that for the last because I wanted to try and see if there were any other secondary issues causing this that might come up if I get improvement from one of my other fixes. Absolutely no change until the hammer came out.

I could get you a list of codes currently stored if that would help. Absolutely zero faults still since I started this thread. Here's my list of codes during the meltdown:

============1==============
P0097(00)
Raw code: 009700
ECU: 10
Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 - circuit low input; Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage

============2==============
P0098(00)
Raw code: 009800
ECU: 10
Status: Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 - circuit high input

============3==============
U3002(62)
Raw code: F00262
ECU: 32
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Vehicle identification number (VIN)

============4==============
C0051(64)
Raw code: 405164
ECU: 32
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle
OBDII: Steering Wheel Position Sensor

============5==============
C1A37(01)
Raw code: 5A3701
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============6==============
C1A35(01)
Raw code: 5A3501
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============7==============
C1A34(01)
Raw code: 5A3401
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============8==============
C1A33(01)
Raw code: 5A3301
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============9==============
C1A32(01)
Raw code: 5A3201
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============10==============
C1A31(01)
Raw code: 5A3101
ECU: 2B
Status: Test not completed since last DTC clear, Test not completed during this operation cycle

============11==============
U0416(86)
Raw code: C41686
ECU: 2B
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear, Warning indicator requested
OBDII: Invalid data received - vehicle dynamics control module

============12==============
U1A4A(68)
Raw code: DA4A68
ECU: 20
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Confirmed

============13==============
U0403(94)
Raw code: C40394
ECU: 1C
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Invalid data received - transfer box control module

============14==============
U0416(94)
Raw code: C41694
ECU: 1C
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Invalid data received - vehicle dynamics control module

============15==============
P186D(00)
Raw code: 186D00
ECU: 1A
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear

============16==============
P080A(00)
Raw code: 080A00
ECU: 1A
Status: Test failed, Test failed (current drive cycle), Pending, Confirmed, Test failed since last DTC clear
OBDII: Clutch position not learned

 
  #13  
Old 04-29-2022, 12:40 AM
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Also, @DakotaTravler what are your thoughts on buying one of these generic ones from ebay/Amazon? Like this one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39387198603...cAAOSwbU9hC65K

After reading your thread you linked, I wonder what your thoughts are regarding the source of the noise? You said it stopped making noise after removing the black cylindrical cover? And didn't return after reinstalling it? This is where I'm considering drilling and blasting with lube then filling the hole with epoxy to see if it can be an easy fix before buying one of these cheap generic ones. Would love your thoughts.
 
  #14  
Old 04-29-2022, 07:16 AM
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I have two of those generics. In my case, I can not rule out it being the issue. Post install I still had codes. Not for stuck I believe, but for position no learnt - I would have to check my thread. And that code eventually went away and has not been back for a very long time. Until now. After its initial install and codes, I contacted the seller and they sent me another which I never installed because I never got around to it and then the codes never came back. So I have a second one I will likely try just for the heck of it. I still have my original, in pieces, too. The original was stuck upon removal but after taking it apart it moved fine and there was no noticeable wear/damage. Motor brushes, for example, looked great. But if this other replacement is an issue, I am going OEM for sure.

I think what is causing the system-wide faults is vehicle dynamics. Somehow indirectly cause by the rear diff. When I first had my issues I don't recall any vehicle dynamic module faults at all, just rear diff faults. Not sure what has changed. Its possible it has involved a software update since I am pretty keen on updating my modules.
 
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  #15  
Old 05-07-2022, 07:54 AM
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Oh, speaking of software updates... the rear locking module has a very critical one which I think by now most are aware. I did mine of course, but the TSB basically says you can replace the rear actuator motor but if you don't do the software update it will get toasted again. I have not done my transfer case module update and wonder if I should. 99% doubt it would matter, but with how all these systems are interconnected I would not be shocked in the transfer case module has some influence on the rear diff too, if only related to output data the terrain response uses. Today I hope to put the replacement locker sent to me in and reconfigure the truck. I am also going to very closely look at the connector for corrosion issues and probably look over the harness as best I can. If the new locker solves my issues, then I will chalk my issue up to being aftermarket actuators are not ideal - shocker, I know....

Update: So yesterday I installed my free replacement actuator that the company sent me after I mentioned the issues with the first. Looking back, I maybe should have swapped it right away even though codes went away. One of those codes was transmission component slipping, that code was not there before I first swapped. Anyway, another thread details all that. But since installing this last one, no codes at all. I have no taken it off road extensively but did exercise the rear diff a little. Nothing came up at all so far. And yes, I did edit the CCF again to add the locker back. I have a big trip coming up in Upper Michigan/Copper Harbor area on the 19th for a few days. So hopefully no issues.

Final update on my end: Guess I can rule out module/wiring. The second replacement managed some of the most technically rock climbs and trails I have done in some time and I have yet to generate any codes at all. Besides my seemingly carbon clutched enhanced sludge concerns, all seems well.
 

Last edited by DakotaTravler; 05-30-2022 at 09:25 AM.
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