I had the chance to follow adventure when my job furloughed me in that bad economy in 08' (till current) anyway I moved from the Northern California area to Eastern areas of Washington, thru Denver, Nebraska, Iowa and finally landing (for a year and a half anyway) in North Dakota - at any rate, I was there in the worst coldest cold snap for at least 15 years say the locals - At MINUS 55 to MINUS 60 for 3 days, I stayed inside, called the Land Rover Dealers asking questions (I was bored) about battery heaters, oil warmers and block heaters, turns out I was advised there is no need for them .. upon starting the LR3, it grunted but did start in a roar of clatter - so I turned it off and checked the oil, like honey but golden still so I waited for warmer weather like minus 20 and started it again ... since then there has been a tick coming from the left bank, mid block.
dealer in Minneapolis said normal sound for having 112,000 miles - dealer in Rocklin said very complex untypical valve assembly probably scored or clogged VERY labor intense to replace, possible worse case was suggested new engine yikes..
Have brother with 52 ASE and other certs professional mechanic/race car driver, says they are similar to Toyota, very untypical lifter that shims internally, he agrees with LR Rocklin.. Bottom line, DRIVE IT as is
This bothers me as I don't want my best friend of 7 years to sound like this.
Have tried draining oil replaceing with transmission fluid (high grade lubricant, low viscosity) and letting it idle for 30 minutes, then replacing with 5/30 OEM oil, it seemed to help a bit (brothr says it is done on Toyotas all the time for similar tick)
I've run out of options and thought I'd share this here, any help from anyone would be GREATLY appreciated
Thanks a Million
Terry

 

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-46975/

If you had 5W30 in when it was very cold, that would only be good down to about -30F. Operating way below that you had no lubrication, or greatly reduced. You could run a 5W40 or even 5W50 oil, but this might be outside the owner's manual prompt for 5W30.

The spec for the oil pump PSI is

At 3500 rev/min 3.0 bars (300 kPa) (44.0 lb/in²)

I scanned the owners manual, and the workshop specs. Unlike D1 and D2 engines of similar size, there is only one oil spec, 5W30. In D1 and D2 higher viscosity oils are suggested for higher temperatures, and lower (even 5W20) for very low temperatures.

I would certainly be tempted to try some Shell Rotella 5W40 T6, or some Kendall 15W40 with titanium Amazon.com: Kendall 1056016 Super-D XA Premium Synthetic Blend 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil with Liquid Titanium - 1 Gallon (Case of 4): Automotive=

The idea that you have scoring is likely spot on. A pal from the frozen north on a remote air force base told me that even inside shelters trucks could not crank, they drained oil, kept it in a big cook pot overnight on a single burner hot plate, and poured the hot oil into the engines to be able to crank them.

 

You could try some seafoam in it. I had a buddy with a bad tick on his older 944 we put seafoam in it and idled it for about 15min and it went away. They say you can leave it in and totally clean the engine but im not sure if i would do that.

 

I am not a mechanic, but I would say the seafoam, marvel mystery oil or perhaps a BP flush might certainly clear it up. I would not run it for very long in there though, if 15-30 minutes clears it up drain and fill with fresh oil.

On the oil viscosity, here in Austin TX (hot) the dealer was using 10w30, so apparently dealers or LR does do vary for different temperatures. I would not worry that much about change the viscosity for the environment.

I use Royal Purple, and would not hesitate to write them for advice on the right oil for the right temperature. Perhaps you can do the same with yours.

 

Thanks very much for the tips!
If I've already tried the Trans fluid, idle for 30 mins and dump / refill I think that I'll try anything, that idea scared me like large woman in a moo-moo drinking Coors Light in a trailer park - But it seemed to help

The tick is still there, at varying RPM's seems to disappear - So Thanks again will post results in a couple weeks - busy at work (union pacific railroad which is a good indicator for the economy
Terry

 

If the seafoam doesn't work put some thicker oil in it.

 

Tried the Seafoam and at first it was not going to start, cranked by itself till the engine nearly wouldn't crank but fired - thankfully ... it was quieter for a while then it came back .. so I will use the Seafoam again and see if eventually it goes away

Another issue - was using the LR3 for a side-job building a Sandbox and repairing play toys for a child care facility - moved the seat all the way forward and loaded lumber in it and the air bag light came on.. still runs the same (good) but threw some misfire codes and upon heavy acceleration the "engine reduced performance" codes pop up
Baffled .. but very appreciative for the help guys THANKS
130,000 miles btw

 

Another fellow had the same problem with the airbag light. Search around on the forums like "+airbag +seat" and see what you can find, if you don't turn up anything, I'll try and find the info for you.

On the tick, I would just stick with it, ie: flushing it, and changing the oil / filter more frequently. Some have reported eventually it may work itself out. I would not recommend continuously running it, although it might be ok, consult a professional on that one.

 

I had a European mechanic from portland (30 years at wrenchin') suggest a low gear, near red line rev, under a load.. to float the valves in hopes it might turn the lifter a little - I may try this but not sure how these shimmable lifters act or react - and I'm thinkin it may throw the computer into protection mode
evidently these lifters are unique like a Toyota V6, in that they're fatter and shorter and internally shimmed - and because they're a dual overhead cam, it's a pain in the *** to get to
Any thoughts ... ?!?
Again THANKS too much for the forum and the great people in it

 

I would let the flushes and increased frequency, adjusted oil viscosity play out personally if it's not hurting anything.

As only as you don't blow it up you could try that, I assume that would be uphill for a distance or something like that, perhaps tractor pulls