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I'm going to be ordering lower control arms, i was looking at the Meyle HD. It seems like some people love OEM, some say Meyle HD are great, others don't like them, what other options are there? The job seems pretty straightforward once we can cut off the bolts, I've already seen it's pretty rusty so expect that to be some work. Anti seize on the bolts on install, yes or no? I've seen some say yes, some say no.
Last thing first. Anti-seize? ABSOLUITLY! It is like Franks' hot sauce. I "it" on everything (suspension related).
As for the brand. I have used Meyle, Lemforder, Aftermarket (it is a brand sold by Rimmer Bros) and of course LR genuine with no issues.(be aware there is a brand name called OEM and I know nothing about them other than people have complained thinking they were getting an OEM vender part and it turned out to be just another aftermarket brand) I have not used Dorman, but tend to stay away from them as a general rule.
Only true recommendation I have is to stay away from poly bushings. Having such a bad experience with them, I have invested in the tools to remove and replace the bushings so now, unless the LR control arms are bad, I put new bushings and ball joints on them and put them on the shelf waiting for the one of the LR's in the stable to need a replacement.
As for the rusted bolts: Some use a cut off wheel. A carbide blade and a sawzall worked for me. Those nuts and bolts can be quite expensive to replace. It took me 3 months to collect a complete set all the nut and bolt and washers. Some of the bolts are upwards of $12.00.
I am sure others will give you a more detailed report about which brands to avoid. I would say buy from one of the usual Land Rover venders. Avoid anything that does not list a brand name .
I prefer OEM. But at the time OEM was a rather inexpensive option. Only my front lowers are aftermarket, Mevotech - they are considered a good one probably on par with Meyle HD and they were only $50 on closeout! Looking now, prices have gone up a little. Upper fronts, for example, I paid $53 for OEM each. Now they are $65 each. Lower OEM are $143 each. So not sure how that compares to what Meyle HD costs, but again I prefer OEM over aftermarket generally. It also depends on what you are doing with it I suppose. I am not a hard core off-roader, but I do hit the trails often enough and enjoy a good rock crawl here and there. If I never did those things, I would be less likely to go OEM. Oh, I second Dorman - horrible stuff.
You probably read, go with good blades for cutting and I can not recommend enough an electric sawzall. The electric will outperform a battery one and make things go 10x faster.
And yes, anti-seize should be used. I use marine grade. Copper is another good option. And I bought all new hardware, every nut bolt and washer - mostly OEM with that but not a big deal with that stuff I feel.
@DakotaTravler where are you finding OEM arms for $143? I’m seeing the Meyle HD left and right with all new hardware for $450 from Lucky8. Haven’t seen anything listed as OEM for under 300. I had a quote from a shop and they were about 325 an arm without labor
LRDirect - I buy all my OEM stuff from them. I was curious on the total, with shipping, and...... ouch. So each arm is $143 but shipping is another $125 for a total of $410, for both arms, shipped to US. Ouch! Shipping has gone way up and the currency exchange rates are not helping So not sure if it would be the best value anymore.
I did this... It's definitely the HARD way. I have a 20-ton press, but I still needed to use a bottle jack, an air chisel, and a torch to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
Its weird how cheap Delphi stuff is sometimes. But I do toss Delphi stuff on my truck and its never been an issue. I also realize they are OEM for a lot of stuff, even Rover (like the struts). I was eating up sway bar links and put Delphi links on for $12 each. Darn things are holding up great! So yeah, doing the bushing by bushing route is great. If you can get cheap used arms to do on the side, makes it even easier to have it all ready for install. Plus if you botch a bushing install you are not totally screwed. My neighbor had a local shop press in upper arm bushings and they bent one arm! But they did give him two new arms to make up for it.
This is how I extracted the old lower bushings. I can see how they could bend. I brought mine to the point they began to bend, then hit the collar with a mapp gas torch and the bushing popped loose. Scared the h outta me the first time.
I did this... It's definitely the HARD way. I have a 20-ton press, but I still needed to use a bottle jack, an air chisel, and a torch to get the old ones out and the new ones in.
I have done my front lowers like that but with a bush press kit, about to do the front uppers ( BJ and bushes) and all the rears bushes only and hub carrier bushes.
Which Lower Control Arms
So not sure if it would be the best value anymore.
