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It looks like I need to replace my the RH axle seal on my LR3. It's giving me a nice drip of gear oil in the skid plate even with the updated breather hose. Since I'm in the middle of replacing all my front control arms I should be most of the way there.
Does anyone know if any special tools are required to get the halfshaft out and swap the seal? Thanks!
Is it at the nd behind the inner CV joint, shaft will just yank out easily with no special tools. Not sure if there is a seating procedure for the seal but it should be apparent once the shaft is out.
Use a ratchet strap on the CV as close to the seal as you can, on that large metal chunk of it. Because if you pull too far form the other end of the CV, you will rip it apart. The ratchet strap will provide nice constant pulling pressure as you pry or tap it free. Sometimes just the ratchet strap along is enough to pop it out. Make sure your new seals come with plastic protectors and its a really good idea to use them correctly as inserting the shaft can damage the new seal and cause leaking - I had that happen once when a shady seller shown it came with the install protector, but was missing. Installed anyway and after a month or so had to do it again. Was not happy. With that said, I am sure the halfsafts are often installed without the protectors and there is no issue. By the way, the front seals are also BMW part number: 33107505601
I have seen the bearing wear out which causes the shaft to move around, thus causing the seal loos shape and leak. Don't be surprised if you get a hand full of needle bearings when you pull the half shaft out. Dakota Traveler, Do you recall the part number for the bearing?
By the way, if it is the right front, you can buy a new axle sleeve that bolts to the diff and mounts to the frame where the CV joint attaches. It comes with a new bearing and seal.
Dakota Traveler, Thank you for the ratchet strap suggestion! The halfshaft on mine did not want to come out until I pulled on it with a ratchet strap and gave it a few hard hits with a brass drift punch. Hammering alone wasn't enough to get it all the way out it.
I picked up a seal from a local JLR dealer but unfortunately it didn't come with the protector so I 3d printed something that kinda worked to install the shaft. Maybe I should try the BMW dealer if I have to do this again.
As far as I can tell the bearing seems alright but that's good to know about the axle tube, I will look into that if this starts leaking again.
Yup, jack up truck , blocks under frame, if you lay under the diff with feet under rear bumper, the drive shaft in your face, you can reach up on top of the diff and just unplug it, blow air into line and remove fill plug blow air into diff to be sure the port for line is clear
Iirc the breather line is on top of diff pass side, and the breather cap end of that line is up by the gas tank fill, been a while since I messed with that end
Hardest part is jacking up this heavy beast unless you want to hit off road height and trust it while you squeeze under
I'll do that in the garage, go to off road height and set it back down on jackstands, also leave the door open. Not the recommended practice but I will not get under without the jackstands in place.
As for the seal fix, you have to remove the driveshaft on that side which means as a practical matter removing the affected wheel hub. Not terribly complicated but lots of work and if your bolts break off while taking the hub off they are specialty items and not off the shelf bolts.
And then I have done that job only to have the damn seals leak anyway. I resorted to having a dedicated ratchet with the right hex bit, and a bottle of gear oil on hand to top it off once a week.
