When installing a second battery, will the factory ground location in the spare battery bay be okay to use? Its identical to the ground location at the main battery. Some say to run a negative lead all the way back to the main battery. Winch is connected to the main battery and will stay that way. All other factory main wiring, including grounds, will be replaced also.

Second question is if I should run two wires to the back of the truck. One positive, one ground. Will be 4awg. One wire is simpler to run, but I want to run a shunt on the negative side of the aux battery to measure usage, so I think I need two wires. That way the aux battery will have just one ground. But with the possibility of using it for winch backup power, I am not sure if thats even possible as the shunt itself is not rated. Anyone run something like this?

edit: Looks like the shunt is rated for 500amps

 

1. I have the 160 amp Traxide kit and the aux battery goes to one of the ground lugs in front of the aux battery box on the left side of the car.

2. On the 2007 I ran 10 gauge wire to the back to power the fridge. This time on the 2006 I just used the complete kit from traxide as I gave up on the need to run large amounts of current at the back of the car. I will use a short lead and an Anderson plug under the hood for jumper cable as I do not want people opening up the battery boxes unless they know how to deal with a two battery system. As for the current shunt, I will punt to someone with more experience with that.

Jeff

 

I almost went Traxide. I know its a proven setup and they support Rovers more than most. But in the end, I went with the more robust Blue Seas ML-ACR (7622). Supports much greater continuous amperage and its IP66 rated. So it can takes even high pressure water. Trade did not list any IP ratings, the only reason I passed them up.

 

I would use the earth point in the second battery bay, just be sure to brighten up the metal work to ensure best connectivity and be sure to smother it in dielectric grease once secure to prevent corrosion.

On my 200Tdi I used to run a T-Max split charge kit rated for 200A, after I killed that I fitted a second alternator and made my aux circuitry stand alone from the main vehicle starting and running circuitry, it sounds like you are using your main starter battery for winching and would like to connect the aux to help it out? My system uses only the aux battery for winching with continuous feed from the second alternator.

Second alternator

Not 100% if possible on a D3 but it's something I would investigate for certain if you are going to be touring a lot with fridges and freezers, camp lighting, chargers for laptops, cellphones etc,. The main advantage will be that your aux circuitry is 100% stand alone from the vehicles starting and running circuitry and should you flatten your aux battery, you can turn the key, fire it up and drive away.

 

I would love an isolated second setup, but I dont think there is proper room in the LR3 for a secondary alternator. I wont be running much of the aux battery. A fridge, for sure, and a few chargers. I will probably have more devices power up when actually on the move (laptops, cameras, etc). I never stay in a place more than one night, so I dont need anything too extreme to last days anyway.