Hello All,
Update: received the center valve in the mail; replaced it and still have the same problem; with the gallery venting fault that triggers the orange and red suspension lights; which prevents me from controlling the ride height in the vehicle. When calibrating the suspension from everything deflated at bumpstops, it seemed like it the new valve filled the fronts quicker than usual, and it would always go up when I wanted it to go up (which was an issue sometimes previously) but it would not go down more than a 1/2" when needed, so there is a problem with it venting. Initially when pressing the down (deflate) arrow on the GAP guided calibration you can audibly hear the exhaust burping but then it just stops and all you hear is the front valve clicking with nothing happening. It was fun messing around and troubleshooting this but I'm out of time and moving on. I have come to the conclusion even if I fixed it now the odds of it letting me down for the types of expeditions we do is greater than I'm willing to accept.

Later this week custom steel braided air lines will arrive and I will modify the LR3 air suspension for my needs which are primarily reliability in the field followed by the ability to adjust for extreme loads/ towing the rare times I'm that heavy. I am returning the compressor and center valve as I will have no need for them. Each shock will have its own independent line which simply goes to a schrader valve. No shocks will ever be connected to anything else. Air will be supplied from an aftermarket compressor to my desired PSI rating which will remain unless I choose to beef up PSI for heavy loads or towing. I have no desire for access or constantly varied heights, my preference is to set it and forget it.

 

Well good luck. I am still certain its a wiring issue and probably a simple fix. But the system can be frustrating to work on without having prior experience. You should be just fine with the plans you have to "manually" control the bags. Obviously it will not be ideal for off-road as the cross-linking will not longer work, etc. But it does not sound like you would have this rig anywhere near mud, etc.

 

Not sure how much actual off-roading you do, but the beauty of the EAS is that the valve blocks force air from one side to the other, such as when one wheel is stuffed. It emulates a solid axle in this way which allows for better articulation. I have pics of it in action, it really does work.

Maybe take one last shot, by communicating with the guys at GAP and seeing if they can help. They are really good about that and they have tons of knowledge. Once everything is sorted out, the EAS is actually quite robust. It takes a total compressor failure or a branch through the shock (rupture of air bag) to take you out of commission. Most simple EAS issues in the field can be remedied by getting it up to Off-Road Height and pulling F26.

 

Thanks gents. This vehicle will almost exclusively be used off-road, to include mud at times. It belongs to the non-profit MilitaryMobility.com that provides off-road expeditions to veterans. We’ve mainly had other brands of vehicles and are new to owning and maintaining Land Rovers. A few months ago we picked up another 08’ LR3 that already had the coil spring conversion done (albeit stock height). I put the OME HD coils and some other mods and we’ve been quite happy with it. Was trying to keep the air on this one for folks to see/ feel the differences.

Experience working on these, no I don’t have it. Options to try to keep stock EAS: I can contact the GAP guys again; other than that I can start cutting wires to the 6 prong plug, replace the compressor again, or just start replacing every part in the suspension. I agree its most likely electronics. You’ve won me over, I’ll try the listed options (except buying random new stuff) until the air lines arrive. Thanks for sticking with me.

 

Hi, been reading an old thread of yours from 2013 where you had the orange suspension light and headlight faults, rear was not lowering and it looked like an exhaust fault (but I'm guessing) it turned that calibrating the LR3 with the GAP tool fixed it by your thread. Anything you can remember that you were doing wrong with the calibration? I've emailed GAP again yesterday with the symptoms I've been describing in this thread.

Yesterday I blew the compressor relay somehow while troubleshooting and then was jumping with a wire to continue testing. Today I'm going to completely remove the exhaust silencer from the vehicle and open it up if possible. I traced the compressor air intake that is inside the cabin behind the rear driver's side tail light but hesitated taking it out as I'm unsure how to disconnect it and how I would re-connect blindly as it's tucked away. Plus it seems pretty clean back there so maybe the air intake isn't an issue at all; just trying to check everything to do with the exhaust routing and venting the gallery.

 

Hmmm....can you link that thread?

Only time I remember an orange EAS fault with an adaptive headlight fault was last summer when I stuffed a big tire into the well and ruptured the wiring run in the wheel well. Impressively, the LR3 and EAS functioned just fine thereafter. You could be referring to the time I had a Steering Angle Sensor issue....maybe that resulted in an EAS and headlight icon and I just don't remember it correctly. New or re-calibrated SAS and an alignment and good to go...probably an EAS calibration too.

I point at the EAS Calibration a lot because it seems to do a lot of good and it's fairly easy to perform.

 

houm_wash, here is the link to the old thread: https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr...e-59005/page2/

Got word back from GAP diagnostics; great folks! So here's what they have to say (along with my notes in RED).

C1A13-64Pressure Does Not Decrease When Venting Gallery - Signal plausibility failure

-Reservoir valve block pipes incorrectly installed (unions reversed) (What does this exactly mean? Talk to me like I'm a child)

-Exhaust valve stuck closed (I have a new compressor)

-Exhaust valve does not hold minimum retention pressure (I have a new compressor)

-Exhaust valve coil/wiring short circuit (I have a new compressor)(upstream wiring fault from LR3?)

-Gallery pipe blocked/damaged (I've ran compressed air through all lines from the center reservoir valve; not sure if this would unblock the possible powder everyone mentions or whatever else would be in there. I HAVE visually inspected every air line and HAVE NOT OBSERVED any kinked, melted, frayed, or broken lines, everything has looked to be in good working order.)

-Air suspension exhaust silencer blocked/restricted (I've blown air through all the lines and confirmed they are clear. I have also disconnected the entire exhaust silencer and air intake from the system. No change)

-Axle valve block pipes connected incorrectly (I have installed in accordance with Land Rover diagrams and re-verified many times)

-Pressure sensor fault (New center reservoir valve and thus sensor)

-Check the pipes from the reservoir valve block are connected to the correct ports. (Verified)

-Where available, refer to the guided diagnostic routine for this DTC on the approved diagnostic system. (Think this is where I’m missing something, in the diagnosisof WHY the fault is actually popping)

-Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check the pressure sensor circuit. Renew the sensor if faulty (Again new center reservoir valve and thus sensor)

-Did you install a Hitachi or AMK? (My old stock compressor works fine but I also have the Hitachi style compressor Part# 1AASC00019. No change, I get the same fault when I swap them out.)

Link to compressor I bought:

https://www.1aauto.com/products/i/1A...irmation+-+New

-Did you check that the proper firmware for the installed compressor is being used? (Yes, even though theoretically no software needs to be updated I conducted the Hitachi ECU install via the GAP tool)

-Check physically which compressor you have and Menu--ECU Flash--Identify firmware. Both need to match, else, flash it with the correct version. (Yes, as stated directly above, Hitachi style compressor with Hitachi software)

I went to Land Rover today and bought a new reservoir and a new 70amp relay. I have a new compressor, center reservoir valve, and have removed the exhaust silencer and the air intake. I confirmed 4 ohms as it should be between the white and blue wires of the compressor. Still getting the same fault. What I've learned is aside from the rust hole in the reservoir I didn't need any new parts as it's changed nothing. I have successfully conducted the guided calibration to normal height (18 3/8 and 19 1/8) and the operation succeeded via GAP reporting. I notice that the LR3 still thinks it's in off-road height on the NAV display and the height toggle control.

Someone please help!

 

Okay so I can't really speak to what's above....except that you never really answered the question below:

-Did you install a Hitachi or AMK? (My old stock compressor works fine but I also have the Hitachi style compressor Part# 1AASC00019. No change, I get the same fault when I swap them out.)
As far as the link you pasted in, I remember that episode very well. Basically the front right height sensor bracket was bent and the dealership couldn't complete a calibration with their fancy equipment. I was able to do so with the IIDTool but it was a sub-optimal calibration and after a while other issues arose.

I wound up replacing the compressor and finding that the sensor bracket needed to be squared up, several years later.

This all really comes down to part-by-part evaluation and ensuring that you have a *****-on calibration that doesn't require a lot of iterations to "take" for the EAS.

I hope this helps.

 

Hi, I currently have the stock Hitachi compressor installed in the LR3. I also bought a Hitachi "type" compressor from 1A auto, it doesn't give an exact manufacturer (link provided in my previous response). I bought this when the compressor was running constantly thinking the compressor was the problem. I now know the compressor was running so much because of the leak in the reservoir tank. Now that I have a new tank the original Hitachi is behaving fine. So I have that installed and may return the new one.

I think you nailed it with the part-by-part evaluation. I've read that even having o-rings that are slightly worn can shut this system off. This brings be back to my need for reliability on this aging system, and to keep repairs affordable. I've easily logged 15hrs a day troubleshooting this for awhile now and will continue until the independent hoses arrive in a few days. I'm very stubborn and don't like to fail or feel like I'm giving up however even if I was to fix it today I would have serious concerns about how easily this can go down on the trail. I can appreciate the EAS system in all its glory yet may have to forego the cross-link application of it in finding a compromise that works for our organization.

The EAS guided calibration always takes on the first try, with Operation Succeeded.

After completing various functions on GAP I commonly see the pop-up “Push EAS up or down to re-activate”. Am I supposed to push EAS when I see this? Not sure what re-engage means? my using the EAS button is what’s triggering my suspension fault. Any insight on this?

I'm off to look at bracket positions...

 

I'm not familiar with the "Push EAS..." message. Is the IIDTool telling you that? I think mine has an older software version....

So your compressor is good. Your calibration is good....can you please describe again the physical behavior? Amber fault? Red Fault? Happens at speed? Static? What are the codes and messages?