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If I am not mistaken, you can select "Lower Switch" and Raise "Switch" in the RLM Suspension menu of the Live Values option on the GAP iiDTool. That way you can move the switch in the car and watch the Gap iiTool to see if the computer recognizes it is being moved.
That may help eliminate the switch from the list of items to replace. (or shorten the list to the switch)
Jeff, that has been noted earlier in the thread, that's how the OP is manipulating the height now. My theory is that the faulty switch is causing other issues.
Jeff, that has been noted earlier in the thread, that's how the OP is manipulating the height now. My theory is that the faulty switch is causing other issues.
true I have been using the GAP tool to raise and lower the LR3; mainly through the GUIDED CALIBRATION setting or sometime through CONTROL HEIGHT when it would let me (which was only once or twice). I believe Jeff is referring to viewing the height switch’s RAISE and LOWER functionality in the LINE VALUE section of the GAP tool.
I hadn’t viewed these values previously although I’ve used the LINE VALUE to view lots of other things, mainly gallery pressure, exhaust, volts, amps, etc. so I checked them both and the switch functions just fine. Now for the catch; I saw his post after I ordered a new switch so you both got your shot!! I’ll try it out but have a feeling it’ll be getting returned. I hope I’m wrong.
On another note I returned the Hitachi type compressor I bought and ordered a genuine one; I have a feeling there’s something off with it as RSW Solutions mentioned (and from a comment I saw on a retail webpage saying he was getting a doilies fault from a knockoff SEE PIC). Also I noticed when I plug my original Hitachi in it doesn’t make the high pitched hum I noted that is coming from the 6 prong compressor plug. To mention again my original compressor is most likely triggering the fault from a bad exhaust which I’ve learned is common enough.
For those that have been following this thread the custom lines I ordered for air bags arrived but were improperly prepared with the incorrect fittings. So I’ve got more time on my hands to troubleshoot!!
UPDATE #5022
Both the center console height position switch and the Hitachi compressor arrived. I tried the switch, no change to the fault, and I'm returning it.
I put in the official Hitachi and had high hopes. I started the LR3 and let the compressor do it's thing and start filling the reservoir. I was watching the stats on the GAP and the gallery pressure wasn't holding, and the compressor kept kicking on. I had flashbacks as this was what the original problem was when I found out there was a hole in the reservoir (I now have a brand new one if you're not caught up). I started spraying soapy water and found it was a leaking from where the air hose goes into the compressor exhaust port! Couldn't figure it out and the hose looked good but I said screw it and made a clean back 1/2". No more leak. Restarted the LR3 and let it start filling again, was watching the GAP stats and heard an explosion of air, no kidding. The hose from where the rear air supply goes into the center valve rocketed off the Voss connector.
Guys I couldn't believe this crap. I shut everything down and opened it up, the air pipe just slipped through, the only thing I could figure is it was getting worn out from all connecting and dis-connecting I've been doing (I've have been working on this issue A LOT). I cut that air pipe back too and added a new Voss connector; by the way those Voss brass lock rings are very brittle, I've broken old ones taking them off and new ones putting them on. Lesson learned, just use your fingernails and not a screwdriver or pliers to crimp. I inspected the center valve and noticed the threads from where the air line blew out were a bit worn out; again most likely from the metal Voss connector being screwed a ton of times into that plastic housing. So I switched the center valve out for the new Ebay one I bought.
Everything was great and the reservoir filled up just over 250 PSI like its supposed to and the gallery held at around 50 PSI like it's supposed to. BIG TEST: Raised the vehicle from the normal calibrated height and it raised via the LR3 height switch (BIG WIN) but triggered orange fault suspension C1A35-01 (Reservoir Valve - General Failure information general electrical failure). I shut the LR3 down and let it be for awhile then started it up, cleared the fault, and pressed the lower height switch in the LR3, IT WORKED as it's never done that yet but again triggered the same fault. Also another first is that the rear passenger and driver will lower in the guided calibration setting (it never did before).
So to all those reading as you may have surmised buy only Official Land Rover stuff, the official Hitachi looks EXACTLY like the one I bought but something is different. The Hitachi did not cause the fault I was getting forever, but as I learned in other threads fixing one problem allows others to surface.
A genuine center valve is not cheap and this one thing leads to another is just what I was trying to avoid. I'm letting myself get tricked by the "I'm getting so close phenomena" but I think I'm almost there! (ha). I'm going to try to swap in the original valve into the new valve lower housing so I can use the new thread ports. Hopefully this works and I don't have to buy a new valve.
If anyone has any insight into this fault please educate me. Thanks.
Curious, does the genuine compressor make the whine/hum like the old did? I’m having the exact same issues with my non genuine from 1aauto. Thanks!
no it does not, I go into this in some detail in my previous posts. Best advice is to return the 1A auto special and get a genuine one. I bought my knockoff from 1A auto too. Not knocking that company but for certain things you need a genuine part; this is one of them.
Fresh start troubleshooting this morning and found a leak on the reservoir Voss fitting that goes into the center valve. Brand new valve and brand new Voss fitting, c’mon. The old Voss didn’t leak, that’s what I get for preventative maintenance. Going to see what I can do. This system is so touchy makes me wonder if it’ll work if I leave the driveway.
Inspected the Voss connector and hose, nothing wrong with it but disconnected then re-seated it and no more leaks but still got the electrical fault.
I opened up the Ebay valve reservoir to swap it with the OEM top but learned they are not the same inside at all (see pics). Bummer.
I spent time with a scribe cleaning out the cross-threads on the original valve, it was only the first couple that were affected. Installed the original valve and all is well in the world.
LR3 is holding approx 250psi steady with approx 50psi gallery. Height switch lifts and lowers without triggering any faults.
What was needed to get the LR3 operational: GAP iiD tool, Hitachi compressor, reservoir, 70amp relay, and a Whole Lotta patience, grit, and determination.
If there is a lesson to be learned; only use genuine Land Rover parts regardless of how small the item. I've learned this lesson with other vehicle brands I specialize in; however our non-profit does not have much money and I was trying to save a buck to see what we could get by on. Please consider this thread closed on my end, thank you to all who helped keep me going, it will be nice to have experience using the system as it was designed and see how it holds up. Happy to answer any questions to those that have them.
Best, Brian from MilitaryMobility.com Off-road expeditions for veterans and civilians. The Land Rover original is on the left with the yellow dots. Completely different setup.
