Can I just buy the u-joint or is it better to get a new shaft?
also, how might I be able to tell if there is not also a problem with the actual steering rack & pinion

 

Its pressed and crimped in. If you remove yours and measure it, maybe you can locate the proper size then get it fitted in. Personally, I would not risk it on something as critical as the steering shaft. But if done right, it might same some cash. The shafts were pretty affordable from what I read. Now they seem pretty steep for a simple piece of kit.

Another option might be to go third-party. Years ago I had to modify a car with a custom steering shaft and joint. It was a Lincoln Mark VIII with an Aviator engine swap. The new shaft has to get around the larger exhaust manifolds. The company I went with was known for making quality steering companies. Flaming River.

Flaming River - Classic Auto Parts - Vintage Automobile Steering Components - Steering Accessories - Electrical Components

I suspect that finding a joint at the rack will be pretty easy but I am not sure about finding a shaft that will connect to the upper one that goes through the firewall. Also it needs to be collapsable. Since the LR3 shares a lot of components with other vehicles, I think its just a matter of research to find the correct parts. Or it *might* be possible to cut the shaft if its a standard design that can fit into a steering joint. Then you only need to purchase the joint.

WIth all that said, I just looked at Flaming River prices and they are two to three times higher than what I paid! But its an option.

 

I’d just pick up the new shaft, but I wouldn’t want the down time trying to sort out finding a new joint.

 

I wonder if there is a boot that could be found that would fit over the joint sealing it. Toss some CV grease in there. I bet they would last the life of the vehicle if that could be done.

 

Yes, I was thinking about that.

I also spoke with my aircraft engine mechanics, and they think the whine and power loss would go away if I replace it.

Im thinking of doing the shaft first due to the obvious improvement of lubing it. I’ll repalce it. If it still has problems, I’ll just wait for the pump to fail. My engine guys said they don’t think it is the rack & pinion either. All of these shops are so full of crap, lol.

 

Well until you know for certain, I would not say shops are full of crap. Its true that some are bad apples, I sure had my share - even bad experiences with HUGE dealers that dominate markets.

 

Another update. I was told to put the truck in neutral and turn from stop to stop. There almost no resistance. The pump still had a little whine to it but not as loud. It think it might actually be the rack & pinion that is worn. I was talking it over with some mechanics at work, and that is what they recommend. I think the steering shaft is good to do but I actually do think the root of the problem is now the steering rack after that test.

 

So I replaced the rack & pinion and it is a lot better. I think it caused the pump to go bad too tho. It needs replacement but it’s overall better.

One this is is happening now which I will check today. When I go over 20 mph, the brake light comes on yellow, traction reduced light comes on, hill descent control unavailable, and then a second later a yellow suspension fault. This only started after I changed the rack. Do you think this could be like a brake sensor?

 

The U-Joint appears to be "Febest AST-1539", which seems to be pretty common in many steering systems. Am just researching this issue, ordered a designed in Canada made in Vietnam OEM assembly but if it doesn't turn out I'll be fooling with the U-Joint solution...

 

Thank you.

I fixed the issue by replacing the power steering pump. The rack and pinion was also bad. Now it turns like butter