Version 1.0.1 = 11/30/2020

This thread covers the install of a D4 bluetooth module into a D3. Its pretty straight forward with minimal difficulty so I don't cover every single detail. In essence you need to carry over two wires from the old module to the new for power. Its also very likely that if you did not have bluetooth installed originally you can still install this upgrade. You would have to find a place to cut into the MOST network and locate a power source.

Background:
The D3 bluetooth is an early version at a time when many advances in the tech were being made. As a result the very early D3s require one to pair each and every time they get into the vehicle. While later versions resolved the connectivity issue the call quality was not the best. For the early versions, you can get a software update to provide a fix. But if you want better call quality and a few extra features, upgrading to a D4 module is best. The D3 I performed this upgrade in already had a D4 navigation display upgrade. This gives me even more features than found in a stock D3.

If you are interested in just updating your existing D3 BT module, see here for an exchange program. Handy for those with no way of getting the software update done:
Bluetooth Exchange

Parts needed:

Three M6 bolts.

If you wish you can install the D4 bluetooth module bracket available from Land Rover Merriam Parts. Its probably also available from forum sponsor Atlantic British, but you would have to check. The bracket was only $8 USD. It is not required but provides a nicer fit and finish.
Part number: FHC500390
https://www.landrovermerriamparts.com
https://www.roverparts.com

I highly recommend getting this connector. Price was reasonable for having a proper secure connection. It will provide a proper install of the power wires to the D4 module. Its the same connector type found in the D4 and other vehicles.

Plug/connector part number (as shown below): 1J0972977D
This part number will also work, the only difference is the cable "tail" at the end is 90 degrees up: 1J0972977H


Lastly you need a D4 bluetooth module itself. These are produced by Ford and available used via eBay. I paid about $60 USD for mine but I have seen prices for three times that much! Its very possible the same module has been used across multiple vehicles. I bought mine from a 2012 LR4 but modules from other Rovers, Fords and Jaguars may work.




Mounting:
First remove the original bluetooth module if installed. It is located behind the cargo area trim panel. Instructions for removal of the panel can be found on the forum. The module has two connectors, a large three-row harness that provides power and cradle connectivity in the center console and a MOST network connection. Careful with the orange MOST cables, you can damage them if bent too far. The module itself is attached with a bracket held by two bolts. FYI: That dark magenta thing is a crash sensor. Do not damage it and if you unplug it, do not power up the vehicle as it will generate a hard SRS fault.


Next install the new D4 bluetooth bracket. Its not an exact fit as there were some changes made to the D4 specific to it. But this is not an issue. If you are skipping the bracket install, just locate a secure place for the module to mount. The brackets will use one existing hole shared with the satellite radio module. The right side of the bracket actually clamps onto the metal panel and an M6 bolt provide the clamping force to stay in place (red arrow in second pic below). My D3 lacked a bolt hole location for the upper right side of the bracket (blue arrow in second pic below). I gently pulled the bracket away and, for now, placed some material to prevent rattling. Window seal foam would have been a better choice but its what I had on hand and after traveling 1,500 miles on gravel roads since install I never heard it rattle. Another option would be to install a rivet for that location.

Photo: Original D3 bluetooth module mounting points. New bracket will use just one as seen below.




Once the bracket is in place, you can mount the module. It simply sits into two prongs on one side them you use too M6 bolts to secure it at top.




Wiring it up:
Since the phone cradle is pretty much obsolete in the D3, you will be loosing it for this install. The harness has numerous wires for it but now you only need power and a MOST connection. The MOST fiber optic connection simply plugs right in. But you will have to carefully cut the harness wrap to get more length of cable to reach the socket.

The power connection was a bit confusing based on voltage readings I was taking. The assumption was that the larger red and black wires would provide power but I only found partial low voltage here at best, even with key on. I am not sure exactly why and did not have a schematic on hand to figure things out. Looking back, that should have been correct. (schematic below). So I ended up pulling positive power connection for a dark blue/teal wire with white band. This appears to be ignition (probably for power up on key-on, the D4 module does not use this) yet mine had 12v+ even with the truck off, so that is where I got power (no worries, the BT cycles to a very low power state when the MOST network shuts down). So for now remove form the connector or cut one black wire for ground and locate pin 16 for positive power. You may have to verify power using your own meter until I can get back in and take a second look at this.

Once you have your two power wires, install them properly into the new two-row connector at pins 15 and 31.

Pin 15: GROUND
Pin 31: POSITIVE






D3 wiring diagram

D4 wiring diagram


Once you have wired things up and tested functionality, secure the remains harness and wires into place. The D4 bracket has an eyelet for using a cable tie. (green arrow). The old connector (red arrow) simply tucked and cable tied to the main harness.



Completion:
Thats it for install. No software or configuration change in the vehicle is needed. Pari code is 2121. You may find that your first phone call does not work properly, they may not be able to hear you. Your second phone call should resolve that for good. You will find your steering phone controls also still work. Hold the green to call back the last person if dialed using the truck and if the truck has not been restarted since. Red switch will end a call as before.

On a stock D3 you should have cellular signal and carrier show on your radio display when pressing the phone button. You may also see the number you are calling on your cluster and radio display. But I have not seen either display a phonebook name. I am not certain, but a software update may allow that. I have not tried it, but I think you can navigate your phonebook via the radio controls also.






If you have updated to the D4 navigation display then you will gain on-screen calling, phonebook lookup and carrier/signal strength.

 

Thanks for the great write up! While I upgraded my BT module many years ago, I still have issues with the wires/pins slipping out every so many months. Having a part number for the connector is fantastic. And I will probably pick up the bracket as well since my module is just zip tied to the old bracket at the moment.

 

I think they bracket helps position the module better for BT radio reception. Just like how the original one sorta stuck upwards and out. But if you have no issues, you probably dont really need it.

 

Excellent write up as always

 

I know this thread states "Instructions for removal of the panel can be found on the forum". I cannot find this anywhere. Can someone kindly post the link on how to do this? I just purchased a 2010 LR4 and my steering wheel buttons are unresponsive and I believe I need to get this module replaced.

 

This module has nothing to do with steering wheel buttons. Odds are its a clock spring issue.

 

would this allow me to use my phone and play music from it?

 

No . . .

 

My assumption that I need to reset/replace the module comes from the fact that I do not see "Land Rover" as an available bluetooth device when I turn the truck on. I've read that only 5 devices can be pair in total. The steering wheel buttons may be unrelated but since I cannot pair my phone, and this is my first LR4, I don't know what the user experience is supposed to be.

 

Bovee 1000