Thanks DakotaTravler, the kit list is helpful. I’m going to look at Farnell/Mouser/etc. for the components on this side of the Atlantic.

The explanation for stepping down power for the board and stepping it back up for PWM was useful.

 

Hello DakotaTravler, is it possible to share your arduino code with us ? Dimming is the last step needed for screen integration in my LR3.

Thanks a lot !

 

Working on it! Laptop w/code is charging. It's old...

 

I'm about to do this conversion as my LR3 navigation decided to not work anymore, and I found one on ebay with the plugs still attached.
Did you ever find the coding for the aurduino? Long shot after almost 3 years since the ;last entry, I know, , but asking just the same.
Thanks for the write up, it is a little clearer than the one at disco3.

 

I can not read the Arduino device itself to get the code, cause it complies it to upload to it. So I can only go with this for now until I figure out where the laptop went. This is from a thumb drive I used to jump between my main computer and the laptop for uploading in the Rover. But I think I made a few on the fly adjustments on the laptop itself to tweak it better. But this will work for now. Also you need to look up info on how to use the serial monitor (in the Arduino app) to find the low and high readings of the photocell you use since each is a bit unique. Also I have not reinstalled mine yet after the aftermarket CarPlay fiasco. So I can take some specific pics of the Arduino setup if needed. One thing I can not figure out is how the hell I managed to get wires to the dash speaker for the photocell. I still like that location best for it, but it must have been a lot of dumb luck to get them ran up there. I say this because with the CarPlay app I wanted to put the GPS or something up there and could not get the wires ran no matter how hard I tried. But I want to do it again if I reinstall the D4 display since I supply yanked them out not thinking I would need em.




/* Rover LR3 to LR4 Nav Screen Upgrade Arduni Uno Code
* BETA 5 v1.0.2 - 12-1-20
* When refering to "steps", these are the visible changes in brigtness when looking at the display.
*/
const int numReadings = 25; // ADJUST to make more or less smoother from step to step, larger value increases delay but steps are more abrupt. No more than 50 recommended or else negative values are generated.
int readings[numReadings]; // the readings from the analog input
int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading
int total = 0; // the running total
int average = 0; // the average
int inputPin = 0;
int ledpin = 11;

void setup() {
TCCR2B = (TCCR2B & 0b11111000) | 0x02;

//Serial.begin(9600);

delay(1500); // Starup delay, to prevent backlight from coming online before Rover splash screen.

for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++)
readings[thisReading] = 0;
}

void loop() {

total = total - readings[readIndex];
readings[readIndex] = analogRead(inputPin);
total = total + readings[readIndex];
readIndex = readIndex + 2;
if (readIndex >= numReadings)
readIndex = 0;
average = total / numReadings;


int ledLevel = map(average, 0, 450, 7, 247); // Maps the average output to duty cycle of display. Max duty is 255, suggest less to keep backlight LEDs cooler. If "numReadings" is adjusted, you need to set new max values from serial monitor.

analogWrite (ledpin, ledLevel);
//Serial.println(average);

delay(1000); // Delay bewteen backligth adjustments. Less means faster changes and more smoothness but increased "sensitivity". Greater value means less frequent changes but larger "steps" in backlight adjustments.
}

 

Here is the original smoothing code I pulled some stuff from.

/*
Smoothing

Reads repeatedly from an analog input, calculating a running average and
printing it to the computer. Keeps ten readings in an array and continually
averages them.

The circuit:
- analog sensor (potentiometer will do) attached to analog input 0

created 22 Apr 2007
by David A. Mellis <dam@mellis.org>
modified 9 Apr 2012
by Tom Igoe

This example code is in the public domain.

http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Smoothing
*/

// Define the number of samples to keep track of. The higher the number, the
// more the readings will be smoothed, but the slower the output will respond to
// the input. Using a constant rather than a normal variable lets us use this
// value to determine the size of the readings array.
const int numReadings = 10;

int readings[numReadings]; // the readings from the analog input
int readIndex = 0; // the index of the current reading
int total = 0; // the running total
int average = 0; // the average

int inputPin = A0;

void setup() {
// initialize serial communication with computer:
Serial.begin(9600);
// initialize all the readings to 0:
for (int thisReading = 0; thisReading < numReadings; thisReading++) {
readings[thisReading] = 0;
}
}

void loop() {
// subtract the last reading:
total = total - readings[readIndex];
// read from the sensor:
readings[readIndex] = analogRead(inputPin);
// add the reading to the total:
total = total + readings[readIndex];
// advance to the next position in the array:
readIndex = readIndex + 1;

// if we're at the end of the array...
if (readIndex >= numReadings) {
// ...wrap around to the beginning:
readIndex = 0;
}

// calculate the average:
average = total / numReadings;
// send it to the computer as ASCII digits
Serial.println(average);
delay(1); // delay in between reads for stability
}

 

thanks for posting the code!
The particular aurduino referenced is no longer available on Amazon, and to be honest I probably need the starter kit anyways. It's something I've always meant to explore but haven't yet, the old dog will be learning some new tricks!
The D4 display has been ordered. Looking forward to getting it installed. All those apps are fine but there is value in GPS navigation not dependant on cell service and it's going to be nice to update that panel. After the trip to the Keweehaw I realized that the LR3 does have some good life left in it and it's worth putting some effort and money into it! We gave the 21st century 6G Bronco a try and it never really rose to a Land rover level of engagement.

 

Any UNO R3 Board from any maker should be the same. Lotta people make those boards.

 

Finally got my LR4 screen installed and working, definitely more time involved than I thought. Running that cable for the GPS antenna and ABS signal wire was challenging, so if you decide to do this project keep in mind you'll be digging into that center console way more than you'd think.
As a side bonus my cubby cooler works again. It was dead warm before I started.
So, a question. On the old system there was a on road and off road navigation system, all I see is on the new system is on road navigation. Am i missing something or is iti just the way that is?

 

Good question. What really was the difference between the two other than the compass working or not? With this one, the compass always works and will even show GPS, etc. Full time. But I really never did know what the actual difference on the old screen was between the two map modes besides the compass working.