I recently bought a 2006 LR3 4.4L v8. When I bought it I knew the suspension wasn't working and it was lowered down not fully to the bump stops but just enough it was scrubbing tires. Ive replaced the front and rear valve block, rebuilt the res valve block, and replaced the compressor. After replacing the front valve block and compressor and res valve I was able to manually jump the compressor and got the front lifted. After getting the rear valve block I released the air out of the front so it would raise evenly. Now after everything's been replaced and fixing two other leaks in airlines, neither the front or back will raise at all. The reservoir tank is getting air in it but I can't find any other leaks anywhere. Im at a loss with it right now and could use some help. IS it possible the rear and front valve block aren't opening up like they should? Should I try to replace all the air lines? (also to note the nav screen inside is busted out and I am still waiting for the new one to arrive).

- Replaced AMK compressor with an AMK compressor

 

Check the air reservoir for leaks as they can rust from the inside out, can you hear the compressor running at all ?
If not you may have a wiring issue.

 

If you are scrubbing tires, you are likely on the stops. That can cause damage to old struts if driven too much. I am confused about jumping the compressor, there should be no need to. And if you do, nothing will lift and the reservoir will not fill. Instead the pressure safety built into the exhaust on the compressor will go and the air will just vent back out. The computer need to be online and working enough to open the valve blocks. If it giving errors, dash lights? Its could be that the airlines are connected wrong? Its been done before.

 

So I've checked the res tank from top to bottom and can't find any leaks. Its also full of air and holding.

 

I had removed fuse F26 and would manually jump the compressor through the relay spot. The system was fully drained of air and the compressor would not turn on more than 2 seconds immediately after start. Ive triple checked the hoses and now that I got a new nav screen in I know the ride height sensors are working. I truly now believe there is an electrical issue with the wire that connects to the rear valve block.

 

Well if jumping the compressor results in it not running for more than a couple seconds, you have a faulty compressor. Jumping the relay will keep it working non-stop, much to its eventual demise.

 

Sorry I wrote that wrong. The compressor would only run for a few seconds with all the fuses and relay. It would run normally when I jumped it. But I still am not able to get the rear up. The front is holding and the res tank is full and all the hoses are connected properly and air will come through the hose leading to the rear valve block. Im going to try and flip the front block and rear block since I know the front block is working.

 

How do you know the reservoir is full? Is the rear valve block even plugged in? Pull on the connector, don't push. If it slides off, well there ya go. Put it back on to it clicks.

 

I put a pressure gauge where the front bolt is on the tank to make sure it was holding air pressure and to make sure it was getting up to pressure to be able to lift the truck up. The plug is fully clicked in, I even used a can of air to blow it out and make sure nothing had gotten into the connector. I got a new voltage meter today so Im going to check and make there is power getting to the block. As a side note when I got the car the thing would vomit water out of the tail pipes. So im thinking the people who had it before possibly got it stuck in a deep mud hole and it could have caused corrosion in the wire some where. (it no longer vomits water)

 

Well mine vomits water too, but that is from idling in extremely cold temps when camping. Rev it and it shoots out a few feet. Attached is the entire wiring manual for the LR3 NA market.