Howdy!
I just recently bought a 2006 LR3 with 180k miles on it, and is having issues shifting past the 3rd gear. When I bought it, it was getting the P0738(gear loads 3-4) and P0735 (gear 5 incorrect ratio), p0729 (gear 6 incorrect ratio), and p0170(camshaft sensor fault/valve timing error), so I recently replaced the solenoids trans fluids and gaskets and filter, but ultimately no change. I can consistently shift up and down without issues from 1st to 3rd, but the second I hit around 45 mph it revs super high like I just disengaged the clutch and clang! back down to 3rd. It does this a few times then throws the error p0735 again and p0170(camshaft sensor fault/valve timing error). I no longer see the P0738(gear loads 3-4). When I do the sport mode / manual shift mode whatever its called, I am also unable to shift from 3rd to 4th.
I'm on the fence about getting a brand new trans, has anyone seen this same thing? everything I see on here seems to be intermittent, but my issues are consistent at this gear. Before I dropped the money on a new trans, thought I might ask around =).

 

Did you do the separator plate as well ? , if not then replace the plate and put a sonnax zip kit in as well. If that doesn't help then its a worn clutch pack and time to pull the trans and get them replaced.

 

Was the trans connector inspected for pin damaged? Sunken pins? The mechatronic sleeve is a known weak point, from fluid leaks to some pin issues. Also, as pointed out in another thread, mis-matched tire sizes will not let it shift past third. But I doubt that is the issue in this case.

 

I had two different tires on front (long story involving 3 flats in a 2 week span) I read someone’s post while looking for solutions.He suggested making sure front tires are exactly the same - his thread reminded me I needed to deal with a tire swap. I couldn’t imagine it would be the reason my 08’ LR3 with 171500 miles was no longer down shifting RPMS at 3rd gear! I was sliding over to sport then up to 4th, 5th and sometimes 6th before returning to auto trans- with the achievement of dropping those RPMS. Well, I had the swap done today. Poor ole’ rover threw a trans fault, plus another for no sensor on tire it’s my spare so I still need to deal with that but oh baby…. We were back to the good ole days! It’s been about 8 hours since swap and everything worked itself out. I still have tire fault and low coolant but I had those before. So yes, my 3rd gear issues started in the middle of all the flats.

 

Thanks for the reply!
I Hadn't heard of sonnax zip kits before, but after checking them out, it sure smells like this part here is what needs replaced, https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4377-ov...atch-valve-kit
unfortunately it requires some pricy tools to boar the hole bigger.
I'm wondering if the most cost effective route is a whole remanufactured valve body? Curious if you think the plate and maybe an endplug might do the trick?

I had read about the tires being an issue on here, and that was actually the first thing I tried (got brand new tires), but to no avail. My other thought were the arm bushings and the wheel bearings goofing up the dif, and I notice about an inch difference in ride height from side to side (already replaced the ride height sensors) but I haven't had a chance to swap out the arms and bearings yet to test that theory.

 

No it doesn't, you use the gen 1 zip kit and no tools required.

 

Quick updated, ran the zip kit, and separator plate but still no dice. I also picked up a iid gap tool, and got a few new codes, one being a P0900-00 (2b) "Clutch Actuator Circuit/Open" code? I'm not sure its related, but the only message I get on the trans, but there isn't much information out there around this message.
up next is replacing the clutch plates and seals, so this will be an adventure. first time pulling a trans so, ill see how that goes.
To answer the question above about the sleeve, I did replace the sleeve and checked the connectors, no sunk pins and I spent extra time cleaning the both sides of the plug with various cleaners and brushes, and it looked good from what I can tell. replacing the sleeve went pretty smoothly. I should note, between each of the various steps I've replaced the fluid and sleeve fresh each time.

 

If you are pulling trans, replacing clutch plates, don't skimp out and get a refurb or new torque converter and check condition of oil pump.

 

Great tip! I was just looking at torque convers in-fact. found a refurb for a decent price:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/234366447385
what should I check for in the oil pump?

 

Just want to add since i just noticed that you touched the pins of the trans valve body.

It is completely possible to fry the unit with static electricity. I was trying to look into that code and there is not much information on it which is odd.