lr3 pre purchase check list
#1
11-06-2015, 08:09 AM
lr3 pre purchase check list
Guys feel free to add to this
Pay for a dealer or Indy shop pre purchase inspection
Full service records preferably from dealer
Pay for a carfax
Things to look for
Front and back differential humming
Wet carpet in the right front foot well from clogged sunroof
Bad suspension bushings
Pay for a dealer or Indy shop pre purchase inspection
Full service records preferably from dealer
Pay for a carfax
Things to look for
Front and back differential humming
Wet carpet in the right front foot well from clogged sunroof
Bad suspension bushings
The following 3 users liked this post by TOM R:
#2
11-09-2015, 01:39 PM
x2 on prepurchase inspection by dealer. #1 thing that saves butts.
>Do a manual inspection of all electronics for things like Parking Brake Inop, if heated windshield works (where fitted). Just take the time to test as many switches/buttons as you can.
>Quick way to have a good chance of avoiding bad front diff is to check engine bay for updated breather cap, usually fixes overpressure problem if caught early by dealer/owner and takes 30 seconds to check.
>Bad LCA's sound like either horses hooves hitting pavement or a squash ball hitting pavement if people needed a reference sound to listen for.
>Front sway bar bushings when bad can cause some vibration in steering wheel.
>If compressor raises truck slowly or throws an overheat message, you may have a clogged air dryer.
>If possible let vehicle sit overnight with fuses pulled (or not) and observe for dipping/sagging. Dealers rarely catch this. Air leaks usually=$$$ as many of us are aware.
>Do a manual inspection of all electronics for things like Parking Brake Inop, if heated windshield works (where fitted). Just take the time to test as many switches/buttons as you can.
>Quick way to have a good chance of avoiding bad front diff is to check engine bay for updated breather cap, usually fixes overpressure problem if caught early by dealer/owner and takes 30 seconds to check.
>Bad LCA's sound like either horses hooves hitting pavement or a squash ball hitting pavement if people needed a reference sound to listen for.
>Front sway bar bushings when bad can cause some vibration in steering wheel.
>If compressor raises truck slowly or throws an overheat message, you may have a clogged air dryer.
>If possible let vehicle sit overnight with fuses pulled (or not) and observe for dipping/sagging. Dealers rarely catch this. Air leaks usually=$$$ as many of us are aware.
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#3
11-11-2015, 09:19 AM
Great thread, Tom.
Agree with what's been mentioned. Bad lower control arm bushings in my LR3 resulted in a noticeable "clunk" sound when I braked and you could feel the play. Bad rear diff had a noticeable hum/whine over 30 MPH. More noticeable under more load (uphill). Keep the windows up and heat/air fan off to hear it better.
Check for a delay in on drive train engagement on a rolling stop. Not sure if this is a big issue or not - mine seems to be fixed with new transfer case fluid, but I don't have it fully diagnosed yet.
I took mine to an independent shop rather than the dealer. Wish I had gone to the dealer.
Agree with what's been mentioned. Bad lower control arm bushings in my LR3 resulted in a noticeable "clunk" sound when I braked and you could feel the play. Bad rear diff had a noticeable hum/whine over 30 MPH. More noticeable under more load (uphill). Keep the windows up and heat/air fan off to hear it better.
Check for a delay in on drive train engagement on a rolling stop. Not sure if this is a big issue or not - mine seems to be fixed with new transfer case fluid, but I don't have it fully diagnosed yet.
I took mine to an independent shop rather than the dealer. Wish I had gone to the dealer.
Last edited by RipD; 11-13-2015 at 09:22 AM.
#4
11-12-2015, 09:06 AM
Winching
Adding potential cost to repair, based on the following scale:
$ = <$500
$$ = $500-1000
$$$ = $1000-2000
$$$$ = don't even ask
1. EAS (Air Suspension) - Make sure it fully and quickly goes through the 3 height settings without any trouble or drama. The compressor should only run occasionally. The truck should be level when parked at all times and should not be extremely low. Potential cost: $$$
2. Control Arms - There should be no clunking or banging over bumps or road imperfections. Coast at idle speed and slam on the brakes. A knock indicates bad control arm bushings. Potential cost: $$$
3. Differentials - Check for leaks, seeping front diff can be related to an un-updated breather design that has pressurized the diff and blown out the seals. Check noise while driving - a hum or a whir could mean a failure soon. Potential cost: $$$
4. Sunroof - Check sunroof drains for proper drainage and carpets for wetness. Should drain below the air intake on the right fender. If they are clogged, it can leak water onto valuable electronics and wiring. They may already be damaged from water if it's been leaking for a while. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Potential cost: $$
5. Windshield cowling - Plastic at the bottom of the windshield warps and lifts up creating a gap through which rain will flow, directly onto valuable electronics. Fairly straightforward replacement, or just caulk/tape it down. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Check carpets for wetness. Potential cost: $$
6. A pillar trim - Mounting points can leak rain into the cabin. Also can damage wiring and electrics. Known issue and LR has a kit to fix it. Check carpets for wetness. Potential cost: $
7. Electric Parking Brake - Check operation, can be expensive to fix. Potential cost: $$
8. Rear hatch latch - Make sure both parts operate without issue. Mechanism often breaks requiring trim to be removed from the inside to access it. Potential cost: $$
9. Rear A/C - Check for proper operation. Lines to rear A/C corrode and leak refrigerant. Low refrigerant causes a whirring or whining sound that varies with engine speed. Potential cost: $$$
10. Alternator/Battery - Check voltage. Either can cause lots of electrical issues. Potential cost: $$
11. Cooling System - Check for coolant leaks. Often leaks from the thermostat housing or a bleeder valve on top of the engine. Potential cost: $ (if you don't overheat your engine)
12. Transmission - Check under pan for leaks, leaks through the mechatronics sleeve. Requires the pan to be dropped (along with lots of other parts) and engine lifted to be changed, along with new fluid. Potential cost: $$
13. PCV Valve and Oil Consumption - The PCV valve can fail, sucking crank oil into the intake. Starts as small puffs of blue smoke, rapidly can progress to full on smoke-screen. If enough oil is sucked up, it can cause permanent engine damage, requiring an engine swap and usually catalytic converter and O2 sensor replacement. Check for any oil smoke and test PCV valve. Potential cost: $ to $$$$
$ = <$500
$$ = $500-1000
$$$ = $1000-2000
$$$$ = don't even ask
1. EAS (Air Suspension) - Make sure it fully and quickly goes through the 3 height settings without any trouble or drama. The compressor should only run occasionally. The truck should be level when parked at all times and should not be extremely low. Potential cost: $$$
2. Control Arms - There should be no clunking or banging over bumps or road imperfections. Coast at idle speed and slam on the brakes. A knock indicates bad control arm bushings. Potential cost: $$$
3. Differentials - Check for leaks, seeping front diff can be related to an un-updated breather design that has pressurized the diff and blown out the seals. Check noise while driving - a hum or a whir could mean a failure soon. Potential cost: $$$
4. Sunroof - Check sunroof drains for proper drainage and carpets for wetness. Should drain below the air intake on the right fender. If they are clogged, it can leak water onto valuable electronics and wiring. They may already be damaged from water if it's been leaking for a while. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Potential cost: $$
5. Windshield cowling - Plastic at the bottom of the windshield warps and lifts up creating a gap through which rain will flow, directly onto valuable electronics. Fairly straightforward replacement, or just caulk/tape it down. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Check carpets for wetness. Potential cost: $$
6. A pillar trim - Mounting points can leak rain into the cabin. Also can damage wiring and electrics. Known issue and LR has a kit to fix it. Check carpets for wetness. Potential cost: $
7. Electric Parking Brake - Check operation, can be expensive to fix. Potential cost: $$
8. Rear hatch latch - Make sure both parts operate without issue. Mechanism often breaks requiring trim to be removed from the inside to access it. Potential cost: $$
9. Rear A/C - Check for proper operation. Lines to rear A/C corrode and leak refrigerant. Low refrigerant causes a whirring or whining sound that varies with engine speed. Potential cost: $$$
10. Alternator/Battery - Check voltage. Either can cause lots of electrical issues. Potential cost: $$
11. Cooling System - Check for coolant leaks. Often leaks from the thermostat housing or a bleeder valve on top of the engine. Potential cost: $ (if you don't overheat your engine)
12. Transmission - Check under pan for leaks, leaks through the mechatronics sleeve. Requires the pan to be dropped (along with lots of other parts) and engine lifted to be changed, along with new fluid. Potential cost: $$
13. PCV Valve and Oil Consumption - The PCV valve can fail, sucking crank oil into the intake. Starts as small puffs of blue smoke, rapidly can progress to full on smoke-screen. If enough oil is sucked up, it can cause permanent engine damage, requiring an engine swap and usually catalytic converter and O2 sensor replacement. Check for any oil smoke and test PCV valve. Potential cost: $ to $$$$
Last edited by djkronik57; 07-13-2017 at 01:18 PM. Reason: Added more items. Updated with estimated repair cost.
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#5
11-12-2015, 01:57 PM
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#7
12-31-2016, 08:33 AM
Super Moderator
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roverich (05-28-2017)
#8
05-07-2017, 08:46 AM
Mudding
Minor one - check front fog lamps work. They are on the same circuit as something else and if you find they don't work, the chance is the fuse is blown. Usually caused when the wire loom inside the front bumper, which LR did not support correctly has rubbed through on the structure so the wires are exposed and keep shirting out and blowing the fuse.
The following users liked this post:
roverich (05-28-2017)
#9
07-13-2017, 12:55 PM
Recovery Vehicle
1. EAS (Air Suspension) - Make sure it fully and quickly goes through the 3 height settings without any trouble or drama. The compressor should only run occasionally. The truck should be level when parked at all times and should not be extremely low.
2. Control Arms - There should be no clunking or banging over bumps or road imperfections. Coast at idle speed and slam on the brakes. A knock indicates bad control arm bushings.
3. Differentials - Check for leaks, seeping front diff can be related to an un-updated breather design that has pressurized the diff and blown out the seals. Check noise while driving - a hum or a whir could mean a failure soon.
4. Sunroof - Check sunroof drains for proper drainage and carpets for wetness. Should drain below the air intake on the right fender. If they are clogged, it can leak water onto valuable electronics and wiring. They may already be damaged from water if it's been leaking for a while. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems.
5. Windshield cowling - Plastic at the bottom of the windshield warps and lifts up creating a gap through which rain will flow, directly onto valuable electronics. Fairly straightforward replacement, or just caulk/tape it down. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Check carpets for wetness.
6. A pillar trim - Mounting points can leak rain into the cabin. Also can damage wiring and electrics. Known issue and LR has a kit to fix it. Check carpets for wetness.
7. Electric Parking Brake - Check operation, can be expensive to fix.
8. Rear hatch latch - Make sure both parts operate without issue. Mechanism often breaks requiring trim to be removed from the inside to access it.
9. Rear A/C - Check for proper operation. Lines to rear A/C corrode and leak refrigerant. Low refrigerant causes a whirring or whining sound that varies with engine speed.
10. Alternator/Battery - Check voltage. Either can cause lots of electrical issues.
11. Cooling System - Check for coolant leaks. Often leaks from the thermostat housing or a bleeder valve on top of the engine.
12. Transmission - Check under pan for leaks, leaks through the mechatronics sleeve. Requires the pan to be dropped (along with lots of other parts) and engine lifted to be changed, along with new fluid.
2. Control Arms - There should be no clunking or banging over bumps or road imperfections. Coast at idle speed and slam on the brakes. A knock indicates bad control arm bushings.
3. Differentials - Check for leaks, seeping front diff can be related to an un-updated breather design that has pressurized the diff and blown out the seals. Check noise while driving - a hum or a whir could mean a failure soon.
4. Sunroof - Check sunroof drains for proper drainage and carpets for wetness. Should drain below the air intake on the right fender. If they are clogged, it can leak water onto valuable electronics and wiring. They may already be damaged from water if it's been leaking for a while. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems.
5. Windshield cowling - Plastic at the bottom of the windshield warps and lifts up creating a gap through which rain will flow, directly onto valuable electronics. Fairly straightforward replacement, or just caulk/tape it down. Can cause all kinds of electrical problems. Check carpets for wetness.
6. A pillar trim - Mounting points can leak rain into the cabin. Also can damage wiring and electrics. Known issue and LR has a kit to fix it. Check carpets for wetness.
7. Electric Parking Brake - Check operation, can be expensive to fix.
8. Rear hatch latch - Make sure both parts operate without issue. Mechanism often breaks requiring trim to be removed from the inside to access it.
9. Rear A/C - Check for proper operation. Lines to rear A/C corrode and leak refrigerant. Low refrigerant causes a whirring or whining sound that varies with engine speed.
10. Alternator/Battery - Check voltage. Either can cause lots of electrical issues.
11. Cooling System - Check for coolant leaks. Often leaks from the thermostat housing or a bleeder valve on top of the engine.
12. Transmission - Check under pan for leaks, leaks through the mechatronics sleeve. Requires the pan to be dropped (along with lots of other parts) and engine lifted to be changed, along with new fluid.
These lists are invaluable when shopping for a new used rig.....What did we do before the internet?? We listened to our elder family mechanics? We winged it? YES...
The following users liked this post:
jwalk1995 (08-01-2017)
#10
01-05-2021, 05:29 PM
Winching
high milage engine
Thank you so much for this checklist guys. It helps a lot.
I come from a serious D2 background and I'm looking to upgrade for the family and towing. I know the D2 V8 is something you want to stay away from if you are over 125 plus in miles with no Head gasket service.
I'm wondering if there is anything that jumps out on the 4.4 V8 LR3 when you get into higher mileage like over 125. Amusing engine is well maintained. Thanks for any words.
I come from a serious D2 background and I'm looking to upgrade for the family and towing. I know the D2 V8 is something you want to stay away from if you are over 125 plus in miles with no Head gasket service.
I'm wondering if there is anything that jumps out on the 4.4 V8 LR3 when you get into higher mileage like over 125. Amusing engine is well maintained. Thanks for any words.